T5 Ice cap end caps/reflectors

[freeswimmingfis]

I got some Ice Cap end caps and reflectors from another RC member for a decent price. Can I mount the end caps with out the stand offs? If so, how?
Also the reflectors are a bit "tarnished", what is the best way to "clean" them or "restore" them back to a shiny surface?
Thanks.

 

[DarG]

Re: T5 Ice cap end caps/reflectors

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15488688#post15488688 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by freeswimmingfis
I got some Ice Cap end caps and reflectors from another RC member for a decent price. Can I mount the end caps with out the stand offs? If so, how?
Also the reflectors are a bit "tarnished", what is the best way to "clean" them or "restore" them back to a shiny surface?
Thanks.

In theory, Yes, you use the endcaps without the mounts but you would have to attach the reflectors to something. So you would mount the reflector to a surface and the bulb would clip into the reflector clips and then you can attach the endcaps without mounting them. But you have to make sure you have good, firm contact with the bulb pins/ends into the endcaps. Im not sure if this would be considered an "approved" or even ok method of using the T5's. It may depend on the endcap type. A 3 piece endcap should allow this, Im not sure the 2 piece would, in fact I dont think it would, the endcaps I use wouldnt anyway. They dont use a compression fit type of system.

Many hobbyists did this with VHO lighting, myself included. I called it "floating" the endcaps. They sold plastic clips that mounted to a surface and the VHO's would snap into the clips then you could use the endcaps without the standoffs/mounts. But the VHO endcaps were 3 piece and the way they were designed, they would basically lock themselves snugly on the lamp ends with a kind of compression connection so there was still a tight, full connection between the endcap and the lamp end. I dont know if you could get a snug connection with the 2 piece T5 endcaps if you float them. If they have 3 piece T5 endcaps, it should work the same way. With the 2 piece, the endcaps should be spaced so that the lamp actually compresses the spring contact in each endcap when installed. This makes sure that the lamps pins are fully seated in the endcaps.

I would check with Icecap and make sure it's an ok way of using them before doing so.

As far as restoring the finish on the reflectors, I dont think you can once it's pitted or discolored. But you can clean them and protect them from further discoloration/staining. I use a cleaner/polish/protectant made by Weiman. Weiman Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish. Comes in a silver aersol can. You spray on a small amount, rub in well and polish off. It leaves a protectant coating on the reflector. Since I started using it I havent had any more stains from salt spray. I use it 2 or 3 times a year. Works great on the Icecap SLR's but I cant vouch for other reflector material and use at your own risk, regardless. It's made for most metals according to the label. Some of the Grocery stores carry it here. Icecap has stated that a SS cleaner is safe for their reflectors in the past. Not sure if they still recommend it. But the stuff works great for me.

 

[freeswimmingfis]

Since these are Icecap brand end caps (3 piece) I should be able to use the reflector clips to hold them in place, at least for now.

Maybe someone else wil chime in with a solution to the pitted reflectors. Can I buff them with steel wool?

 

[DarG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15488892#post15488892 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by freeswimmingfis
Since these are Icecap brand end caps (3 piece) I should be able to use the reflector clips to hold them in place, at least for now.

Maybe someone else wil chime in with a solution to the pitted reflectors. Can I buff them with steel wool?

If its the 3 piece endcaps with the center nut, then you should be fine in floating them.

The actual reflective material on the reflectors is a very thin material. If it is pitted, then the reflective material itself in that pitted spot is most likely gone. I think that trying to use steel wool would only serve to risk scratching up the good reflective material around the pitted area, without restoring the pitted area. Im not an expert on refinishing or metalurgy so deinitely find other opinons. But its not as if the entire reflector is made of the reflective material so I really doubt that there is much chance of actually restoring the pitted areas.

 

[JRechcygl]

Are we talking about waterproof endcaps? And maybe I am reading it wrong but was does having the standoffs or not have to do with the SLRs not attaching?
To my knowledge ALL waterproof endcaps are made by the same company whether you buy Aquactinics, IC or Tek ones.. Or at least thats what Chris alluded to..
The waterproof endcap will have a little "male" clip at the bottom that will clip into the "female" portion of the stand off, if you want to run them without the stand off you would need to find a way to get around that connection system...Not sure why you do not buy the stand offs though, they are a couple of bucks...

The SLRs should have lamp clips that clip on the lamps holding them on...

As far as the pitting, I think there is no chance for them... If it was stained many people have had luck with Zep SS cleaner. Get the pastey stuff not the new aerosol stuff.. This is also what Tom over at Aquactinics recommends to help shine them up. Remember that they will scratch REALLY easily so becareful with what you scrub them with. I have used knockoffs, as no one around me sells it any more, to some success but my stains are old... If it was fresh you stand a better chance of cleaning them up.

Good luck

 

[DarG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15489177#post15489177 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JRechcygl
Are we talking about waterproof endcaps? And maybe I am reading it wrong but was does having the standoffs or not have to do with the SLRs not attaching?
To my knowledge ALL waterproof endcaps are made by the same company whether you buy Aquactinics, IC or Tek ones.. Or at least thats what Chris alluded to..
The waterproof endcap will have a little "male" clip at the bottom that will clip into the "female" portion of the stand off, if you want to run them without the stand off you would need to find a way to get around that connection system...Not sure why you do not buy the stand offs though, they are a couple of bucks...

The SLRs should have lamp clips that clip on the lamps holding them on...

As far as the pitting, I think there is no chance for them... If it was stained many people have had luck with Zep SS cleaner. Get the pastey stuff not the new aerosol stuff.. This is also what Tom over at Aquactinics recommends to help shine them up. Remember that they will scratch REALLY easily so becareful with what you scrub them with. I have used knockoffs, as no one around me sells it any more, to some success but my stains are old... If it was fresh you stand a better chance of cleaning them up.

Good luck

I must be missing something because Im not seeing where anything was stated about the standoffs having anything to do with the reflectors not attaching ???
Maybe it was something I wrote? I was saying that the reflectors themselves can be mounted to a mounting surface and then the lamps can clip into the reflectors. So instead of endcaps and standoffs holding the lamp in place and the reflectors clipping on the lamps ... the reflectors would be attached to a mounting surface and the lamp clips on the reflectors would hold the lamp. That way, the endcaps did not have to be mounted to the standoffs and could "float". It wouldnt have anything to do with the clip on the endcap that snaps into the standoff or it affecting the attachment of the reflector.

I dont know whether they make the 3 piece endcaps for T5 like they do for T12 VHO. I was trying to say that IF they did make the 3 piece endcap (not including the standoff as one of the pieces) then you should be able to float the endcaps and get the proper contact with the lamp, just like with the T12 VHO 3 piece endcaps. The 3 piece endcaps actually lock on the lamp with a compression type of fit so that good contact is maintained without physically having to mount the endcaps/standoffs at the correct distance apart so the lamp fits in them snugly.

Does that make any better sense?

I like the ZEP cleaner idea, thanks. Maybe use a qtip (or a Dremel with the little felt pad attachment) to concentrate on the discolored spots. I wonder if Bar Keepers Friend would do the same thing? I used ZEP or BKF mixed to a paste to clean tarnish and other crud off off the copper traces on old circuit boards with the Dremel and felt pad when I couldnt get the Copper cleaning powder. Id try the Q-tip first before going to the Dremel.

 

[freeswimmingfis]

I have no problem buying the standoffs, but only if I have to.

I will try the Zepp with the dremel to see if it helps...

 

[DarG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15489696#post15489696 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by freeswimmingfis
I have no problem buying the standoffs, but only if I have to.

I will try the Zepp with the dremel to see if it helps...

I did some searching and could not find any 3 piece waterproof endcaps. I found some different 2 piece, but no 3 piece. I also found some info for one of the endcaps that stated that the must be used with the standoffs. But it isnt stated everywhere. I believe it was for the Icecap standoffs which are the same as some other branded or non branded endcaps. The Giesemann endcaps are different, they mount to standoffs with screws and a seperate gasket like the T12's instead of the snap in place tabs ... but they are of the same 2 piece type. I dont think any of the 2 piece endcaps "should" be used without the stanoffs. I believe that they need to be hard mounted at the correct distance apart in order to assure the proper contact between the lamp end/pins and the endcaps. None that I could find actually "grip" the lamp like the 3 piece T12 endcaps do.

Bottom line is that, personally, I wouldnt "float" the 2 piece T5 endcaps. If you can find a 3 piece that is designed like the T12 waterproof endcaps, then they should be fine. But the 2 piece, I wouldnt do it and I doubt that they would be considered ok for use that way.

 

[freeswimmingfis]

I think you are right about not floating the lights.
The end caps seem to be a 3 piece. there is a center piece that snaps into the outer ring. there is a rubber ring that grips the lamp and also has a rubber seal once it is tightened.
These do have to have a stand off, I dont understand why they are not sold with it.
Thanks for all the input. Now off to finish the new stand.