taking the plunge... First reef

[Whaleboy]

Hello all...

been lurking for a couple months while researching options for setting up a reef tank. Over the past few weeks I've entertained the idea of anywhere from a 75-100g tank, all the way down to starting with an 8 gallon nano. After weighing the options, doing research, and figuring what would realistically work in the space available, I've 95% decided on an IM Nuvo Fusion 30L (36x15x13). As for equipment, I am currently compiling a list. I'd like to keep with high quality equipment that is reliable and will last a long time. That is much more important to me than finding a bargain.

Stock
A small number of fish (small clown, Goby/shrimp pair, others?). Also Shrimp, hermits, snails, etc). Easier to keep Corals, softies and LPS. Open to suggestions for this size/layout of tank.
30-45 lbs of Live rock... not sure which flavor, but to simplify, I'll likely get cured rock that is ready to drop in the tank. Cost is more I know...
Sand (?) How much? Its a pretty shallow tank, so I don't want too much in there.


Equipment (Question marks mean I haven't decided on the exact brand/type. Suggestions welcome)
1. Apex (Jr, Lite, Full?) with appropriate sensors (including a water leak/flood alarm) I'm trying to automate as much as possible.
2. Lighting. LED or LED/T5 combo for lighting. I want to keep the heat/power to a minimum.
3. Nano Skimmer (?) open to suggestions.
4. Nano Reactor (?) A good idea? Un-neccessary?
5. Filter Media (?). The system comes with media baskets that can contain various filter media. What is best to use?
6. Heater(s) (?). what size for this size tank? We live in Southern California, so it doesn't get crazy cold, and the heat is kept at 70 usually.
7. Chiller? I'd rather not. We recently put in central air, and keep the house at about 75 in the summer. Is a chiller needed? I wouldn't think so.
8. Replacement pumps (?) (are the stock IM pumps good enough... I read a lot of people end up replacing theirs). I'd like to keep the system as quiet as possible.
9. Powerhead (mp10). Most end up with an MP10. I assume the directional returns that are included in the tank aren't enough for good flow with a lot of coral in the tank?
10. ATO (Tunze Osmolator 3155)
11. Auto doser (?). Not sure I need it, but if I need to dose I'll probably look into it.
13. Buckets etc for water changes, containers for ATO. Extra pump, tubing.
14. RODI unit (?). Still debating on this. I have nowhere in the house to put it, but do in the garage. Its a detached garage and can get very very hot in there in the summer. I have a LFS right on my way to work so the 5 gallons or so I'd need per week is not a big deal to buy, at least in the near term.
15. Test kit (?). Refractometer (?), etc.
16. Salt mix (Reef Crystals), misc supplies.
17. Stand. I want the stand to have a bigger footprint than the tank, so I'm looking at some made for larger tanks. I won't be going for the IM stand made for this tank.

QT tank? 10-15g with HOB filter?

I'm sure I'm forgetting something...

I need to check on the power available in the room, but the breakers are 30 amp, and I need to install GFCI outlets (its a smallish living room, but hardwood floors, and since we live in an earthquake region, the possibility is there of the tank coming down during a big one, so any power outlets within spill range will be replaced. And on that note...

Since we are prone to quakes here (although its been a while), the thought of a rimless tank is a little unsettling. With a rimless (all the AIO's seem to be that way... well... except the Biocubes), even a moderate quake will cause the water to slosh around, and on a rimless that means spilled water. I'd like to create some kind of splash guard to help keep the water in, at least in the case of a smaller quake. I have a couple designs in my head, and involve fabricating some sort of plexi rim. Any ideas on that?

Comments on any or all of the above appreciated, whether it be to address flaws in my thinking or equipment suggestions.

Thanks

-David

 

[H45]

I bought the IM 30L. Currently two weeks into the cycle. So far I love it's simplicity. I did the same thing as you, back and fourth with big setup-small setup and finally decided on the IM 30L. Your future livestock list is exactly like mine.

I put 20Lbs Live Sand and 25-30Lbs of rock. I added two small live rocks to "seed" the tank. For lighting I went with the Current Orbit Marine LED 36". I haven't been running the lights during the cycle but for as little as I have used them, I like the light so far.

The flow is very nice with the stock pump. I had to adjust it a few times because it was causing the sand to be blown around. I extended the two outlets with some loc-line and this gave me more flexibility on where the flow is directed.

 

[Tzwizzle]

Hey there. I'm just gunna comment on some of the stuff you posted.

So with tank size with a 75-100g tank you can start to have fun with your fish selection. Smaller tanks are actually harder to keep because they can be more sensitive to water chemistry issues so keep that in mind. You can always upgrade later if you so choose.

Sand depends on what you are going to keep. Some critters (certain goby, shrimps, snails, wrasse, jawfish, eels) need sand to be happy. Some people don't have any sand and crank up the flow for SPS corals. Based off what you've posted I would recommend 1-2" of medium grained sand just for looks. Fine grained sand tends to get blown around way too easy and broken shells tend to trap waste.

As far as equipment everyone does things differently. I've got an AI hydra and I love it. I also really like the tunze ATO. If you run leds you will most likely be ok without a chiller unless you don't have AC. I usually run 2 heaters in case one goes down.

I personally don't run media or a reactor (not sure if you were talking phosban, calcium, or biopellets).

I would recommend getting an RODI unit. Mine fits nicely under the kitchen sink and you can just run the lines when you are making water. Surely you have room for this? Get the fastest GPD one you can. Well worth the money.

Salifert seems to have the most reliable test kits but a lot of people use API.

I would defiantly recommend getting a refractometer and make sure it's calibrated. You can buy 35ppm calibration standards. Mine was off 10 ppm from the factory !

If you have a smaller tank a 10g QT should be good. Lot of people run this size.

Highly recommend putting your tank on another circuit!

I've seen some shallow tanks that run the water level 2" down from the rim and then have wave pulses go from one end of the other. I looks pretty cool if set up properly. I would look into fixing the tank/stand to the wall somehow. I'd be more worried about the whole tank littering off the stand.

 

[Pife]

I would start with a larger tank. Smaller tanks can be a pain to keep stable and keeping it stable is the name of the game.

 

[Fallling]

Hi there.

I'll give my thoughts on couple of your points.

Yes, a bigger tank can be more forgiving, but it's also going to be more expensive. Also, doing water changes that require more than 5 gal at a time can be kind of a pain, and f you have a RODI unit, the waste water can become a concern if you're in drought ridden southern CA like myself... I top my 125gal off with several gallons a day. If you're committed to those weekly water changes and have a means for stable temperature, you shouldn't have any problems with the 30L. Of course, eventually you want more livestock, and a bigger tank will give you more room = )

As for live rock, you might consider starting out half live rock and half dead rock or some combination. You'll get the same result, but it'll be more cost effective. Making any specific structures such as arches or pillars will likely be easier with dry rock. My live rock had so much life that once I got it, I didn't want to take it out of water for very long. Also, just be aware live rock can have some unwanted hitchhikers. Finally, remember all live rock, even premium cured, is going to have some die off and will need to be cycled... you can do that in the tank but the tank will still have a normal cycle. If there's lot of die off, it can easier to do it in another container.

1. Personally, I'd wait until the tank is up and running for a bit before getting a controller. Get your hands wet and get a feel for the tank before automating things. Once you have all the equipment and know how your tank runs, you can decide if you need the lite or the full.

2. If you're just doing softies and lps, I'd just go with a LED fixture. Success with sps and LED seems to be tricky, but softies and lps are proven successes with LED. Unless you're going the DIY route, T5/LED fixtures are really pricey.

3. For tanks under 100gal, Aquamaxx CO-1 or RLSS R-6I is what I'd choose. There's tons of opinions and options... might try posting in the Equipment forum for more ideas.

4. Next Reef makes a good small reactor. If you run gfo, start out small and increase as needed... say 1/4 of recommended amount. Over doing it can strip the water too much. In the beginning, however, it can help with those algae blooms.

6. 150 watt heater should do the trick.

7. If you have central AC, then a chiller isn't needed.

8. I'm not familiar with IM pumps or if you're referring to a return pump, but if you want a super quiet pump, look into the DC controllable pumps. Sicce and Eheim Compacts are also quiet.

9. You may want to go with 2 powerheads... one on each side of the tank. Look at what people with your size tank do for a better idea. As far as returns, if you keep the output close to the surface of the water, it'll break the siphon much faster if the power goes out, helping to prevent an overflowing sump (I'm assuming you're going to have a sump... if not, scratch that). It'll also help to agitate the surface. My point being that you'll likely not use the returns for any significant flow.

10. yes.

11. You dont need this at the beginning. When you start needing to dose calcium and alk, that's a good point to look into a doser.

13. I'd suggest getting a couple of 5 gallon buckets. They're cheap and stack for storage. Couple of gallon buckets is also useful to have.

14. Get a good RODI unit! It really is important... even lfs water can still have tds not to mention potential nitrates or phosphates in other sources of water. If you do the lfs, just make sure to test it yourself with a TDS meter (unless it's very reputable), and start out with good water.

15. Salifert or Red Sea, and Refractometer. Hanna checker is good for phosphate. Make sure to get ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, ph, alk, ca, and mg tests.

Good luck!

 

[chriz2]

Bigger is better . After a few months you will find your self itching for a bigger tank

 

[Roger30]

I went with a jbj rimless 30 gallon instead of the innovation 30 cuz the jbj has two return pumps, plus curved corners. Really good looking tank. If you have a good LFS near by and go with a 30 gallon or smaller, I would buy my water from them. Check what salinity level they sell. Most LFS around me sell water 1.023 or less. For lights LED for sure, especially if you don't want to use a chiller. Plus LED offers more control. Salifert for test kit. I have a jbj ato and am happy with it, cheaper then the tunze. I would do a reactor with rowaphos and protein skimmer. I have the hydor slim skim nano. I don't think it's the best for an AIO tank, never got mine working well! With that said, I am now upgrading to a 100 gallon with in the year. AIO are cool but they do limit you. Hope this helps.

 

[kmbyrnes]

Go bigger if you can. All of the above caveats to smaller tanks aside, the minute you get livestock in your tank, you will be thinking about BIGGER, BETTER and MORE.
We bought a 12g nano to see if we liked the hobby. I love that tank, but within a month I started my current 110. Why? BIGGER, BETTER and MORE. And the best part is that the larger tank is NOT 10x the work!