Tangs with White Spots

I have never messed with SPS Corals but from what I understand about Ich, just by having the corals/frags in a tank without fish for 8-12 weeks would be the best bet to try and make sure there is no ich on the corals before putting them in a tank with fish.

Jim
 
I should clarify my last post. Corals would only have ich by transferring the corals or getting corals from a tank that has ich and the ich comes along for the ride. From my understanding, corals are not hosts for ich.

Jim
 
bucky1168 said:
I should clarify my last post. Corals would only have ich by transferring the corals or getting corals from a tank that has ich and the ich comes along for the ride. From my understanding, corals are not hosts for ich.

Jim
Click to expand...
yes i know but the ich can hitch a ride on something like the frag plug, correct? Or even a cup of water from an infected tank? cross contamination.
 
Are there any dip solutions for corals that kill ich?
I'm asking because I'm about to put all of this in effect tomorrow. Sorry for the 1 million questions..
 
No problem. The only dip solution that would actually kill the ich would kill the coral, IMO. There is stuff out there that says it kills ich and is reef safe but I have never heard of it actually killing the ich. Copper, leaving your tank fallow, or Hyposalinity is the only true effective method to get rid of ich. Again, this is my opinion. Good luck with Hypo. I am just about done with bringing my out of Hypo. I can't wait until its done. So far, so good.

Jim
 
P
bucky1168 said:
No problem. The only dip solution that would actually kill the ich would kill the coral, IMO. There is stuff out there that says it kills ich and is reef safe but I have never heard of it actually killing the ich. Copper, leaving your tank fallow, or Hyposalinity is the only true effective method to get rid of ich. Again, this is my opinion. Good luck with Hypo. I am just about done with bringing my out of Hypo. I can't wait until its done. So far, so good.

Jim
Click to expand...

Ok. Thanks all for all your replies. Gonna give it a shot tomorrow.
 
Sorry for the confusion about my last post. No, corals cannot survive hypo...what my meaning was, was that corals should be qt'd as well. (in a perfect world...some do it, some don't) My statement really didn't have anything to do with ich alone, there are a million things you could introduce to your tank by not qt'ing corals/frags.

As far as ich hitching a ride on a frag plug, I have no idea.
 
TampaReefer79 said:
Sorry for the confusion about my last post. No, corals cannot survive hypo...what my meaning was, was that corals should be qt'd as well. (in a perfect world...some do it, some don't) My statement really didn't have anything to do with ich alone, there are a million things you could introduce to your tank by not qt'ing corals/frags.

As far as ich hitching a ride on a frag plug, I have no idea.
Click to expand...
ok, cool. thanks for your help.
 
Cryptocaryon irritans, aka saltwater Ich, can be introduced to a tank by a fish host, live rock, water, frag plug, sand or invert shell. It all depends on what stage of the lifecycle the parasite is in.

1. For a fish, it really doesn't matter, for all intensive purposes they will have it at any given time.

2. Rock, shells and sand can bring it in if the parasite is in the cyst stage.

3. Water can bring it in if the parasite is in the free swimming stage.

Given the life cycle time frame, if you QT corals, inverts, rock or anything not a fish, two-three weeks is sufficient provided the water temp was maintained around 80F. If the water temp was lower, three - four weeks is a safer bet. No meds are needed, only a fish free tank, after all the life cycle will stop when there isn't a fish host.
 
henrystyle said:
Damm, just thought of something. Will hypo kill aiptasia???
Click to expand...

Ideally yes, but those are tough little buggers that can live through a nuclear Holocaust. They need to be eradicated by mechanical / chemical means or they need to be dinner for a critter or fish of some sorts.
 
Thanks. Well I just finished putting my 120g into hypo. Its nothing but fish, rock and sand. Plan on keeping it that way for 4 weeks. I am going to add seachem paraguard to the tank (I have it laying around) during that time period. I took out every snail and crab I saw along with my cleaner shrimp. I do have a 30g that is running and all I'm thinking is cross contamination. But I have nowhere else to house all my inverts and sps frags. We shall see.
When I was dropping the salinity I began to see a tons of pods floating. I'm guessing my nitrifying bacteria in the tank is going to take a big hit during this hypo stage. To me it seems that the ich is only affecting the scaleless fish. (tang) I have 10 chromis and they all look fine.
 
To clarify.....

There are no treatments for crypt.....that are consistently effective........I only throw that in there for the few out there who swear they have dosed that stuff and gotten some success with it. Copper is the best treatment for effectiveness and hyposalinity is decent, but to get the best results, you need to maintain it for at least 6-8 weeks....at 1.009 and 80F. BOTH of these methods will kill corals, crabs, shrimp, or any other invert you want to keep alive in your tank.

You can leave the inverts and corals in the main tank while you treat the fish in the quarantine (QT) system. The parasites cannot use them to continue their lifecycle and will die out after the 6-8 weeks.....so long as the tank remains completely fishless. Also, raise the temp of the main tank to 80F too. The increased temp speeds the lifecycle.

Lastly, ALWAYS qt your fish from this point on......no matter how well they "look" when buying them. Also, do not skimp on the time you treat your fish or leave the main tank fishless......that is a recipe for headache and disaster. Let the time needed play out so you can be sure that you have a clean system.
 
I've had my fish in a QT tank for almost 6 weeks. Getting ready to put them back into the DT. I treated them with copper for 4 weeks and they all look great. Lost my two gobies in the process, they would not eat. I've added carbon the the QT tank to strip out the copper. Also Next water change I’m using water from my DT, advice from my LFS to make the fish environment the same. They state ich never goes away and if you stress the fish to much even after your DT has been fishless for 8 weeks the ich will come back......
 
I think that is an old technique. I just used a product called crypto pro. Used it in my display tank. (Rock-sand-fish). No corals. Ich was gone in 1 week. If you introduce it back into your tank it will be there but I think it is gone forever now. Gonna qt all my fish with this product from now on.
 
Been lurking on your thread and have a follow up question about QT.I have a blue tang and maroon with ich too. I have a lawn mower goby. Should i also put thegoby in the hypo QT or can I leave him with the inverts at the DT?
 
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Just my 2 cents. Im also doing alot of research on ich and what I understand the parasite(ick) doest feed off the corals or rock . Just fish. Once you take out all your fish the parasite will be fishless and just die off . the max time I hAve seen is 8 weeks for main tank. And for the future qt all fish for 4 weeks.
 
And for the guy that thinks a wrasse and a cleaner shrimp is gonna kill ick.When your tank has ick your gonna see how wrong you are.
 
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