Tank Drilling Suggestions

[dbulick]

My tank is kinda interesting, there is a sort of false back that creates a sort of sump within the main tank. There is a large center overflow with multiple baffles that can separate the water into various compartments. I am not super interested in using this system. I would like to go ahead and drill the tank to add a bulkhead for draining, and then probably 2 return pumps as well. I was thinking a large center drain, with two returns on each side of the tank. Any suggestions? Pictures below.

Full Back


Center Overflow


Top Down, Sorry for the feet.

 

[tennesseebob]

that looks acrylic, if so, nothing special required, a holesaw for wood is adequate, by the way, if you arent gonna use that for anything else...it looks like a really handy HoB refugium start to me, maybe dremmel out some of those baffles XD

 

[dbulick]

Yeah, it is acrylic, I went and bought a set of drill bits. I will go ahead and do it myself, no one in the Houston area drills tanks anymore apparently. I am thinking I will do dual center drains, and then dual returns in the sides where they are already plumbed in. Also that HOB refugium idea sounds pretty awesome.

 

[CStrickland]

I like bringing returns over the back side with locline, fewer holes is fewer potential leaks. If I understand you right and you want the whole contraption out of there to start fresh.

How many gallons is the tank?

Once you decide how you want to run the overflow you'll know where to put the holes. Like if you're gonna do a coast to coast with a bean animal there's a right way to do the holes, same with a pair of corner boxes with Dursos in them, or whatever. The holes and plumbing are a function of the way you get the water out of the tank.

 

[tennesseebob]

ok, if that is an acrylic tank, the removal of the old back chamber likely wont be possible because it is welded on, but if it is just glass and silicone then a little bit of hard work will get it out.

EDIT: nevermind, i see that you said it is acrylic, so you can modify it however you like with ease, just not remove it, so plumb through it from the bottom , do a herbie or a beananimal, if you want, and with a WHOLE LOTTA WORK, you could even make it a coast to coast overflow...WHOLE LOTTA WORK. But it would be pretty cool.

But yeah, i think with less water diversion from the baffles it would make a great refugium, keep in mind, you do need to leave a couple intact for structural support of the inside and outside backs, acrylic will bow badly without support.

 

[tennesseebob]

here is a quick explanation of what i'd do

here is a quick explanation of what i'd do

this is just a suggestion mind you

 

[tennesseebob]

i see some of those arent solid baffles, so dont worry about the second circled baffle from the left, leave all those

 

[dbulick]

So do you think running dual returns is better than a single and having just a separate power head/s for internal tank flow?

 

[tennesseebob]

I think spreading the water more from the sump is always good, and yeah you probably want to use powerheads for the bulk of your flow, because you wont likely want that volume of flow through your sump for it to be your only source of water movement. But i think i'd just do 1 return pump and split it, 2 is nice backup though. I'm hoping somebody else chimes in on this lol, i dont have enough experience to tell you what way is best as far as multiple pumps, redundancy is a good thing though, but for simplicity sake i would see myself going with 1 larger pump.

Any flow through your sump higher than what your skimmer will be able to handle is overkill, and i know refugiums require lower flow, but the depth of the chamber in the back of your tank would leave the bottom fairly dead, so i doubt higher flow will effect it a whole lot.

 

[MondoBongo]

i am actually in the middle of drilling one of my tanks right now (mine is glass, but still).

five suggestions i strongly recommend:

1. if you don't have a drill press that can be used, get one of these guys:

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-452...=1435323866&sr=8-3&keywords=drill+press+stand

makes life much easier than trying to hold a drill straight forever.

2. water, water, water, water. i am actually using the waste water line from my RODI system to provide a steady stream of water to the bit to keep it cool. i've drilled some acrylic overflow boxes before, and it can be a real pain if the acrylic heats up too much and starts melting to things.

3. spring clamps are like the most amazing thing ever. i have them holding my drill press attachment in place, as well as my water feed lines.

4. clear you schedule, it takes a lot longer than you expect it will.

5. consider using schedule 80 bulkheads. i have had a lot less problems with getting them to seal, but whatever you use, make sure you take in to account any clearance that the bulkhead flanges will need from other objects, be they the other bulkheads, or parts of the tank like the euro brace, lip, or rim.

 

[ifarmer]

acrylic are pretty easy to do. I have never done it myself until last month where I did a couple of 3/4" holes on my acrylic sump. pretty easy. just go slow then you should be fine.

dual return holes on the back of the tank would be nice. you don't want the return to go over the back of the tank. it's more vulnerable for failure than the bulkheads and looks nicer and professional.

good luck with the progress

 

[tennesseebob]

i am actually in the middle of drilling one of my tanks right now (mine is glass, but still).

five suggestions i strongly recommend:

1. if you don't have a drill press that can be used, get one of these guys:

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-452...=1435323866&sr=8-3&keywords=drill+press+stand

makes life much easier than trying to hold a drill straight forever.

2. water, water, water, water. i am actually using the waste water line from my RODI system to provide a steady stream of water to the bit to keep it cool. i've drilled some acrylic overflow boxes before, and it can be a real pain if the acrylic heats up too much and starts melting to things.

3. spring clamps are like the most amazing thing ever. i have them holding my drill press attachment in place, as well as my water feed lines.

4. clear you schedule, it takes a lot longer than you expect it will.

5. consider using schedule 80 bulkheads. i have had a lot less problems with getting them to seal, but whatever you use, make sure you take in to account any clearance that the bulkhead flanges will need from other objects, be they the other bulkheads, or parts of the tank like the euro brace, lip, or rim.

in general i agree when it comes to glass, i dont think you want water on acrylic though, but it is super easy, and you shouldnt need a drill press/guide with acrylic, because you will be using a wood hole saw, so it will have an arbor to guide it.

 

[MondoBongo]

That's a good point about the arbor, I didn't even think of that.

The only acrylic I have drilled were two overflow boxes, and I actually used a glass hole saw, which I'm just now thinking was not brilliant idea when I could have just used a regular hole saw and probably not had as many heat issues.

 

[CStrickland]

The trick with acrylic is to go fast enough that you are cutting the plastic away with a sharp bit, but not push so hard that you crack it. That's why a press/jig with some wood under/behind it helps. If you are too cautious or dull the friction heats it up and you wind up with a drill bit covered in melted plastic and a dent in the tank instead of a hole.