Tank of the Month - October 2007

Funlap/Balmies girl....thankyou!

P.


Scifi.--

yes you are reading way too much into it.

First off. Once you get the pH probe, ensure it is calibarted...takes a minute at most.

Read the tank Ca and Alk with a good kit.....and use supplements to get it just below the optimal levels.

Set the reactor up, with the probe in the reactor chamber (if its built that way) or in a little (50ml) cup hanging inside your refugium area. ---I like the refugium as a return as plants ned C02 to grow and you will promote health of them in the refuge.

Set the drip rate of the reactor to reasonably slow and measure the volume of the effluent in an hour to figure the rate. I would say 1litre/hr is agood start.

Set the pH controller to activate the CO2 at pH lower than 6.6.
Set the needle valve on the regulator to a steady bubble and watch the pH meter. Ideally it needs to come down very slowly.

let it run.

measure the effluent once its been running for a few hrs at pH 6.6 to ensure its rich in Ca and Alk.

if you want, measure the tank pH as well.

-----now....the reason you want the pH to drop slowly is this...you want it to bubble CO2 almost constantly. The reason for that is if the solenoid ever sticks open, its going to work just the same as if the solenoid was working. If you send blasts of co2 into the reactor to rapidly bring pH down and the solenoid sticks on, then the pH will drop drastically and the tank may be affected.

When running well the CO2 should be on almost constantly.

--- As for aerating, have it drip in an area with decent flow, plus the plants will suck up any excess CO2, in doing so they will grow more rapidly.

Also, if the effluent cup is well out of the water it will lead to aeration as the effluent flows over the outer edge of it.
Also a small fan to blow any excess CO2 from over the top of the water helps.

After a week, measure the tank Ca and Alk. if theey have fallen, increase the flow (this may require adjusting the bubble rate as well). if they have risen, decrease the flow. If its the same, great.

Adjust Ca and Alk to where you want them to be with supplements.

Leave it to run.

and its as simple as that.

Paul.
 
So all the pH controller is doing is checking the right pH in the reactor. And nothing is really checking the actual Ca+ levels. To get the right Ca+ levels you have to "manually" mess with the CO2 bubbles, the water levels entering the reactor, and the water leaving the reactor. And check and clean all the equipment all the time. And... you still have to check your Ca+ levels manually to know what is actually going on. And of course all of this affects your pH, Alkalinity. With a tank setup like yours you probably have it setup to use a certain amount of Ca+ and don't mess with it much.

But with somebody else you're probably constantly altering everything... and checking the results... all manually. The Ca+ usage in a tanks is constantly changing. AND if your tank is fully grown out then your SPS's may not need as much Ca+. Maybe your not a good example but a tank can have flucuating needs.

I was thinking.. what if your SPS's are fully grown out? Maybe you can work with lower Ca+ levels to just maintain their size and stop or at least slow down growth?? Eventually that's a problem unless you plan on fragging I guess. I'd like to share stuff with people if I had it but I'd like to control growth too.

So it all sounds very manual to me. I still don't understand why this is so much better than just manually adding Ca+. You still do the same stuff. Add it a little at a time, ck. Ca+ levels, get it down to a routine of how much you need, but still ck. it b/c your needs can change. At least you don't have a bunch of equipment to worry about too. The only thing I can think of is... with a Reactor you can maintain a specific level easier?... I thought it maintained the pH in your tank but that's not true... maybe this method does a better job of adding other trace elements?

I'm just trying to pick your brain on the actual diff. between this and doing it the old fashion way. Maybe it's just b/c you have such a large tank you really have to use a reactor to make it simple.
 
I think you are missing the point.

it isnt about messing around and sps are never fully grown out. They dont reach a size and stop.

Ca demand may change....from month to month, but I doubt it very much.

as for adding supplements vs a Reactor.... well. Thats your choice. I ran a reactor on a 225g after adding supplements for years. the results were very good.
 
I was reading manufacturer instructions. But that's not always real-world I understand. So the question then is.. how often do you calibrate, clean parts, replace probes??

Ah... good idea to use the refugium as a return b/c of CO2. I was thinking about getting one of these anyway... but that's a lot of other questions I'll figure out myself. My main problem is I have to squeeze it all under a stand. I know there are hang-on refugiums too.

I read somewhere they were saying their controller will save you CO2 by turning it on only when you need it. But you're saying this is NOT a good idea.



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11040305#post11040305 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pwhitby
yes you are reading way too much into it.

First off. Once you get the pH probe, ensure it is calibarted...takes a minute at most.

Read the tank Ca and Alk with a good kit.....and use supplements to get it just below the optimal levels.

Set the reactor up, with the probe in the reactor chamber (if its built that way) or in a little (50ml) cup hanging inside your refugium area. ---I like the refugium as a return as plants ned C02 to grow and you will promote health of them in the refuge.

Set the drip rate of the reactor to reasonably slow and measure the volume of the effluent in an hour to figure the rate. I would say 1litre/hr is agood start.

Set the pH controller to activate the CO2 at pH lower than 6.6.
Set the needle valve on the regulator to a steady bubble and watch the pH meter. Ideally it needs to come down very slowly.

let it run.

measure the effluent once its been running for a few hrs at pH 6.6 to ensure its rich in Ca and Alk.

if you want, measure the tank pH as well.

-----now....the reason you want the pH to drop slowly is this...you want it to bubble CO2 almost constantly. The reason for that is if the solenoid ever sticks open, its going to work just the same as if the solenoid was working. If you send blasts of co2 into the reactor to rapidly bring pH down and the solenoid sticks on, then the pH will drop drastically and the tank may be affected.

When running well the CO2 should be on almost constantly.

--- As for aerating, have it drip in an area with decent flow, plus the plants will suck up any excess CO2, in doing so they will grow more rapidly.

Also, if the effluent cup is well out of the water it will lead to aeration as the effluent flows over the outer edge of it.
Also a small fan to blow any excess CO2 from over the top of the water helps.

After a week, measure the tank Ca and Alk. if theey have fallen, increase the flow (this may require adjusting the bubble rate as well). if they have risen, decrease the flow. If its the same, great.

Adjust Ca and Alk to where you want them to be with supplements.

Leave it to run.

and its as simple as that.

Paul. [/B]
 
I read somewhere they were saying their controller will save you CO2 by turning it on only when you need it. But you're saying this is NOT a good idea.

no. Thats not at all what I am saying.

I am saying set the bubble rate so that it is almost always on. Then if the system fails you will not add excess CO2.


P.
 
I think I follow you now. When they say set the rate 30-60 bubbles... just start at 30. Then it'll be on a constant "slow" rate. It still turns it off and on automatically but in case anything goes wrong you won't get a flood of CO2. I thought you were trying to tell me.. for the longevity of the solenoid it should remain on... or it'll gum up, or break going off and on quicker, etc.
 
I don't understand why they don't have say... a Ca+/pH probe with this too... or even CO2... for your tank water.. and if it gets out of whack turn the controller off. I guess you could get a 2nd controller to control the controller.? I assumed the thing "controlled" itself to this degree until I looked at the diagram of the entire setup.
 
glue for pvc post that hold the live rock

glue for pvc post that hold the live rock

Hello,

Maybe a basic question, but what type of glue did you use to glue the pvc stands together? (The ones that hold the live rocks with the drilled holes).

Thanks!
 
So do you follow all those manufacturer rec's and replace the probe 18 months, calibrate probe monthly? (think it was monthly), etc. Or do you just monitor your Ca+ and pH through other means and notice if something is off turn it off and fix it.
 
don't be jealous. just work your *ss off and spend all your kids inheritance on the tank.

i like to say my daughter bought this or that for me. it is really her inheritance that is buying it.

Carl
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11054739#post11054739 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Prater
Congrats Paul...Can I come over and lick the tank, its just so sexxxy...

Steven....you are a very very bad person!

--so when are you back home for a while?

P.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11043467#post11043467 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SCIFI_3D_zoo
So do you follow all those manufacturer rec's and replace the probe 18 months, calibrate probe monthly? (think it was monthly), etc. Or do you just monitor your Ca+ and pH through other means and notice if something is off turn it off and fix it.


What I actually do is let my corals tell me when something is wrong. If they dont look as good one day then I begin running through a battery of tests.

You can also get a feel as to when things are out of whack by looking at how your equipment performs. If I notice the CO2 feed is always on, or mostly off, I will check things. Sometimes I will check them just because I feel like it....but for he most part I dont have the time to run through chceklists of things on a scheduled basis.

----so the answer is, no I dont follow the guidelines. I do monitor Ca and Alk periodically...maybe monthly.

Paul.
 
How important is a refugium to you? I know there are a lot of potential benefits but is it really necessary. I wish I had room.. I could double one as a QT tank too. I'll have to look into it more. Maybe I can setup something like that somewhere in my stand.
 
I love the depth! I have a 30" tank and run T5s myself. I am 6'4 but still have a hard time cleaning the coraline off the bottom 2". How do you manage keeping it so clean of coraline (especially on an acrylic)?
 
How did you mount your Tunze Stream pumps? The one on the left doesn't look like your using the Tunze magnet holder. If not what did you use, why and how do you like it?

Thanks
 
Sci fi- yes a refugium is a good idea. Search on RC and youy will find lots of information.

You cant use t for Qt. the idea of QT is to separate the fish/coral from the main tank till you know it is fine and free from disease/parasites.
 
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