Tank Rack - Steel, Rust, Powder Coating & Level Help

[chatyak]

Hi All,

I require some assistance, as I'm a bit lost....

I just purchased a steel rack to hold tanks vertically: http://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...Span-Storage-Rack-48-x-18-x-72-Particle-Board

I plan to use this with 40 gallon breeder tanks (18 inches wide... same as shelf width, just a bit shorter length wise on each side which is okay... the weight rests on beams)

Each shelf can hold 1,500 lbs and is 14 gauge powder coated steel. The customer service person told me

"The units you are inquiring about do have a powder-coated finish; however, this does not prevent rust. The only shelving units that are specifically designed to prevent rust are the Epoxy Wire Shelving Units."

I thought powder coating was one of the best ways to prevent rust (if done correctly?)

So I have a few questions:

1. Can I add something on top of the powder coating - like a spray epoxy or is this a waste? I'm careful with what I do, but if I can add something on top of the powder coating for overkill, I'm game for that. The person at Lowes told me that nothing would really stick to it and that powder coating is better than what they had at the store anyways. She mentioned something about Marine epoxy if I really wanted to place something on top of the powder coating.
2. I don't know how to level the stand and this worries me. It's going to sit on a basement concrete floor which is not level and the slope is fair I think (since it will be near the wall)... should I place the rack on top of a thick piece of plywood and then put shims underneath the plywood? I picture the plywood cracking at the point where it's raised and the whole stand wobbling..... with two 40 gallon breeder tanks... it's about 900-1000 lbs total. I don't know if the pressure points of each 4 legs will be an issue either.
3. The particle board isn't too big an issue... I could use plywood, but the tanks themselves will rest on the actual cross support beams. I bought some Kilz primer to seal the particle board and then I don't know what to do after that - I was thinking an epoxy of some sort? Please help

 

[chatyak]

Just to further clarify one point - I would like to paint the steel frame red and have the boards be white (Kilz). Just wondering what kind of paint/product I would need to achieve that.

 

[chatyak]

I have two options... self leveling cement or a thick piece of plywood correct? My concern with the plywood is that each of the 4 legs are pressure points... and may "sink" through the flat top of the plywood due to weight. (The "L" shape corner of each steel post).

I also don't know what thickness of ply to use, if I were to go that route.

What do you all think?

1) Self leveling cement up to 1"

2) Plywood + kilz + sealer with stand on top + composite shims


I found this online as an idea, although this person put coins underneath the metal... I presume so the steel "L" shape doesn't dig into the wood? Is that required? Can I just set it on the wood itself?

 

[cmantis]

I have the setup you want to build. Se d me om to remind me and ill link you to my build thread.

Actually doing another now with 33longs.

 

[chatyak]

I have the setup you want to build. Se d me om to remind me and ill link you to my build thread.

Actually doing another now with 33longs.

I think I read your thread on another website. Can I ask why you placed the stand on top of the coins? Did the weight of the stand start puncturing through the wood?

My stand would be around 800-900 lbs total weight... dispersed via the 4 legs or so is about 220 psi on each leg.... shouldn't ruin the 2x4 block....

 

[chatyak]

Anyone?? Will the L-shape of the steel leg start digging into the wood over time - eventually splitting or cracking it?

 

[chatyak]

Well - after a long day, here is what I decided on.

1) Plywood base cut to fit size of the frame itself... 3/4"... will be painted with Kilz and wrapped in plastic sheeting to prevent any moisture.

2) L shaped metal bracks on each corner for the L-shaped legs to rest on. This will be attached to the plywood base.

3) Got rid of the particle board and am using 3/4" plywood instead. To fix the issue with the raised center brace I simply had the plywood cut in 2 and left a small gap. There is no issues of strength here because the whole tank rests on the beams, not the wood... this also removes the needs for shims/foam and the teeter-totter issue.

Pics:



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