Tank Room Size- What is ideal for 600g?

smklaw

Active member
I am getting ready to make a change order with my architect to add a built in aquarium and fish room to my soon to be built house. The wall that I am putting it in is 20' long and I can go back as far as I want (within reason). I was thinking of a 600g (96x48x30), 30" being the depth. I am initially thinking of 20' x 10'. As soon as I decide on the size and get done with the architect I will be back for tank builder, fish room and tank design and equipment advice.

The following is a rough, very rough, drawing of what I am thinking. 3 walls of the room will be exterior walls and I will need to put a door somewhere. Maybe an interior door and an exterior door.
28630Game_Room_2.gif
 
first question is did you buy that reactor from joe??? it looks really similar to his reactor.
second thing you may want to consider is going deeper with your tank. you can get acrylic sheets up to 8 ft x 6 ft with out paying more per square foot for the acrylic. once you go over that size the sheets get crazy with the prices. the depth of the tank really makes the tank alot more interesting. depth gives you alot more sand bed areas and gives your corals alot more room to grow out.
next you might want to mach up the room in your garage floor with tape so you have a good idea of walking area and places to put things like test kits, additives, all the mics reactors, a small quarantine tank/frag system, and work counter with sink. these are things that would make a good fish room great. i have had the opertuninty to see and work in a few fish rooms and none of them ever had enough room once everthing was in the room and the system was running. if you can spare the room you might consider making the room 20 ft wide and at least 12 ft deep. you will have room around the tank on the sides to work in the tank and place equiptment. you might want o make the stand alot bigger than the tank and have walkways around 3 of the 4 sides of the tank. this would make maintaince in the tank alot easier. then plan for a deticated floor drain with a sloped floor so all the dripped water goes down the drain. if you can do it have the celings really tall. this would give you the ability to raise the lights straight up instead of going back with them. it would also give you the ability to have surge tanks at each end of the tank. you can also stack up storge tanks on a stand and have alot more lower floor space for small items like ca reactors and kalk dosers.
next you might consider external overflows on each end of the tank and leave the back completly open for maintenance. run a sub pannel with breakers into the room so you dont run out of outlets. and use an extra large air exchanger that is dedicated just for the fish room. this can be mounted in the rafters. if you use fiberglas reinforced pannels for the walls it will seal the room off from the rest of the house and make rot and mold laot less likely.
if you put 2 doors in the room it would take aray wall space in the room and you might want to make the room biger to compinsate for that loss of wall space. its a good idea but you need to weigh it out to see which is more important to you.
take all of this as me giving you ideas. its your system and im just trying to give you options and ideas you may not have thought about.
 
Ditto to the floor drain however I did not have my floor sloped when mine was put in. I thought it would be dificult to level the stand with the sloped floor. Also it cost a bit more to have the entire room sloped. I chose to put the drain in the corner of the room next to the tank so that I could use the drain for water changes. If you do get a flood the water will be drawn down the drain anyway. You will have some surface water of course and any damage is easily remedied by putting base molding on the wall that is made from the floor material whether it be porcelain, ceramic, stone etc. You can run a line of silicone around the room to be sure the water doesn't seep through to the walls in the event of a flood. You need to have some sort of barrier or threshold to keep the water out of surrounding rooms. In my house the floor is higher in the connected family room because it's made from solid wood over a 3/4" plywood base. The laundry room/fish room is porcelain tile. I siliconed at the threshold going into the family room. The house is over concrete slab (no basements in the low country.)
My fish room is also my laundry room. It's about 11' x 10'. I was planning for an inwall tank approximately 90" x 30" so 24" would be sticking into the room. There is plenty of room in there. I have an interior door and a large exterior window. HTH
 
Spazz- I was hoping you would chime in. Yes, I did buy it from Joe and will be contacting you for a skimmer and ??? in a few months. Gotta go to a meeting now but I will read your comments when I get back to the office and definitely respond with comments andd probably many questions, so be ready.
 
One more quick detail- The room is on the back of my house (the garage is in the front) and is being added specifically for the tank so I can literally go back as far as I want, the back of the property is another 350+/- feet back.
 
i wouldnt make the room any bigger that you need it to be. here is my reasoning why. the bigger the room the more it will cost to air condition that room. if you have 8 feet behind the tank and one of the sides you should have plenty of space to work with. then put the entry door on one wall in the corner. if you want an exterior door then you might want to make the room a couple of feet deeper to give you added wall space.
here is another thing to consider. this tank will need a cooling system. before you put the slab for the floor down you might wantto lay down a geo thermal cooling grid 2 feet undr the slab in the cool dirt. if the new addition to your house is aprox 20 x 40 make your cooling grid the smae size or just a little bigger. i know your ground water is very high in florida and if you were to have the geothermal loop at or just above the water table it wold help to carry away the heat from the geo thermal loop. ground water is constantly moving. that would give you an almost unlimited cooling system for your tank. it would cost next to nothing to run the cooling system for your tank.

how tall is the room going to be? could you have that part of the room with a raised celing?
the reason i ask is if you wanted to install surge tanks in the room it would really help if the tanks were as high as possable above the tank. even a foot above the tank would do. plus if the room is taller you can put stands in the room for water storage tanks and not have them on the floor taking up work space. you might want to take a look at the st judes thread and copy some of the ideas from that tank.
i would be more than happy to help in any of the design work for your room.
its always nice to have 3-4 different opinions on any fish room design. someone might have an idea that you didnt think of that would really help.

i knew i had see that reactor before. ha ha ha ha i remember fixing it.
 
Come on, I know Spazz is probably the best out there, but someone else has to have some thoughts on this. Please!
 
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