davidandliz
New member
What would be the best product to use to reseal the inside of the tank? im not familiar with the different products.
Tank Sealant
- Thread starter davidandliz
- Start date
a1amap
New member
That would depend on what size tank we are talking about. If it is small I would use Ge window and Door clear silicone type I from the depot or Lowes. If it is a large tank and structural integrity is needed I would use either Novasil S28 or Ge 1200. I was going to order a few tubes of the Ge 1200 to reseal the 220 I have. I have seen it available as case lots but not individual tubes except here. http://www.dkhardware.com/product-21653-scs1203-black-ge-1200-construction-silicone-sealant.html
When I do mine in May I plan or ordering 4 or 5 tubes.
Here is a chart that gives some info on the different brands http://www.crlaurence.com/datasheets/pdfs/sealant.pdf
A lot of the others listed are available here
http://www.drillspot.com/search?q=silicone
When I do mine in May I plan or ordering 4 or 5 tubes.
Here is a chart that gives some info on the different brands http://www.crlaurence.com/datasheets/pdfs/sealant.pdf
A lot of the others listed are available here
http://www.drillspot.com/search?q=silicone
Last edited:
cdangel0
New member
Just to add to Al's advice, make sure when selecting sealents from HD or Lowe's that you do not select the type with the algae inhibitor. The chemical they use to keep the sealent from getting algae is extremely hazardous to a reef tank.
I forget what it's called exactly, I leave the chemistry specific stuff to AL, Ken and Jon, but I do remember that it's not good for our systems.
I forget what it's called exactly, I leave the chemistry specific stuff to AL, Ken and Jon, but I do remember that it's not good for our systems.
Gordonious
Active member
I also thing there is a white and a clear variety of that, "Ge window and Door clear silicone type I".(I'd use the clear) I didn't realize that when I picked up the second tube I bought which cost me another 30 minutes driving back and forth from Lowes because I really needed it.
firecrackerbob
New member
Just to clarify the above... Type I is what you need if you use depot sealant. Type II has mildew and algae inhibitors in it.
firecrackerbob
New member
Yupeer... just clarifying that type II has the inhibitor 
davidandliz
New member
the tank is a 125 gal.. would the door and window silicone type I work on that size of would it need something stronger.....only redoing the inside joints
firecrackerbob
New member
If you are going to be doing all of them I think I would go with the GE1200... better safe than sorry with that much water.
davidandliz
New member
ok..
al how many tubes do they have in a case for the GE 1200 I.. because if its not a rediculous amt then i will just get that.. we would probably do our 90 gal after we empty it as well.
al how many tubes do they have in a case for the GE 1200 I.. because if its not a rediculous amt then i will just get that.. we would probably do our 90 gal after we empty it as well.
davidandliz
New member
yeah thats a little bit more sealant then i would need... i would only need like 6-7. ... maybe i will just spend the 9 $ s/h to get it online.
Thanks everyone for your help.
by the way has anyone ever used this specific product.. and how did it holdup over the longrun?
Thanks everyone for your help.
by the way has anyone ever used this specific product.. and how did it holdup over the longrun?
davidandliz
New member
UPDATE,,,
i found this product Ge window and door sealant I on lowes.com... it is a little over 4$ and you can order it online and pick it up at a local store...!!!!! 1/2 the price and no shipping.... works for me..
Al this may help you for when you need it.
i found this product Ge window and door sealant I on lowes.com... it is a little over 4$ and you can order it online and pick it up at a local store...!!!!! 1/2 the price and no shipping.... works for me..
Al this may help you for when you need it.
Gordonious
Active member
I've used GE I before to just patch a hole in a 30g sump and it worked fine. Haven't had the need or guts to glue together a large tank.
a1amap
New member
The Ge Window and Door type I is always available at Lowes and the depot and yes it is cheaper. If fact I have some from there that I used to make baffles in my sump. The Ge 1200 is only available online but it is much stonger. I have seen articles where people have used it on 500 gallon tanks. The link I quoted allows you to buy individual tubes. I plan on buying 5 tubes for $46 and $9 shipping.
Yes I would rather pay $4 per tube but I don't want to have to explain to my wife why the carpet is wet.
Gordonious
Active member
Carpet is wet? I would think the money and time wrapped up in live stock and salt water soaking into the floors and walls would be bigger. Not to mention the glass and possibly venomous/toxic animals flying out at anyone that may be near by.
Looking at the man hours / cost of materials to repair a small tank (under 75g) and the risk involved I would just buy a new tank. As far as the big ones, I dunno.
Looking at the man hours / cost of materials to repair a small tank (under 75g) and the risk involved I would just buy a new tank. As far as the big ones, I dunno.
firecrackerbob
New member
yea, Im always on the fence about this type of stuff as well...
im always amazed when I see people with DIY stands for instance. Not because I don't think it cant be done easily, but that I KNOW I cant do it, lol-im no carpenter!. I guess its that way with anything though, weighing the risk/ reward and knowing what youre good at....
I think its one thing to repair a corner that is showing a little bead of leaking, but its another to replace all the seams or a full panel. I think I would always be worried about the integrity. its one thing to hack together a sump or fuge, but the investment that is in your main display is usually pretty substantial... But its always worth investigating and giving it a shot. Just take your time, do your homework, and do a ton of leak testing!
best of luck
E
im always amazed when I see people with DIY stands for instance. Not because I don't think it cant be done easily, but that I KNOW I cant do it, lol-im no carpenter!. I guess its that way with anything though, weighing the risk/ reward and knowing what youre good at....
I think its one thing to repair a corner that is showing a little bead of leaking, but its another to replace all the seams or a full panel. I think I would always be worried about the integrity. its one thing to hack together a sump or fuge, but the investment that is in your main display is usually pretty substantial... But its always worth investigating and giving it a shot. Just take your time, do your homework, and do a ton of leak testing!
best of luck
E
davidandliz
New member
oh no... its mainly just the selant is being scratched up with cleaning i guess and the edges are peeling up. there are no leaks or evidence right now that the bond between the to pieces of glass has been compromised in anyway. we are not going to take the tank apart and "glue" it back together. we are just going to scrape some of the loose sealant off the inside corners and reseal it, Mainly for looks.
Sorry i did a quick check for it at the lowes website .. didnt realize it wasnt 1200.
Sorry i did a quick check for it at the lowes website .. didnt realize it wasnt 1200.
a1amap
New member
Trust me wives don't care about the livestock as much as the new carpet. I have the same problem as Liz. No leaks just the caulk has been pulled away a bit on the front glass. i wont be replacing the pane of glass but re-sealing the caulk job.
Eric if you really looked at most of the stands that are available for tanks even a non-carpenter could do equal or better. My 75 came with a stand of MDF board. There were nothing else structural in the stand but 1/2 inch MDF. MDF works well as long as the weight pushes streight down. Any side force and it can collaspe very easily. I didn't feel comfortable with that. The stand I built is so overkill that if put 10x the weight in the tank it would hold. I have 2x6 uprights with a double wide span for the base under the tank. 1 is a 2x6 the other 2x4. the offset is where the upright post rest. Way overkill.
