Tank transfer problem

hogfanreefer

Active member
I've recently started using tank transfer for ich prevention and it had not been pleasant!


I am using identical tanks with identical equipment. My last 3 fish have all eaten well and seemed active and content initially. On day 4 I have transferred them to the second tank and in hours to minutes they are dead! Once could be a fluke but 3 times is a trend! The fish look fine when transferred but never survive the day!

I've racked my brain and can't figure it out. Haven't had ammonia issues, the water in the tanks is from the same batch and the tanks are cleaned and prepped the same. The only thing I've observed is I've used the tanks in the same order every time.

I'm going back to Cupramine if I can't figure this out. I know it's unlikely anyone can explain this but I know two heads are better than one. Thanks.
 
Could be chemical residue like capslok said, what are you using to clean the tanks between transfers?

Only other thing I can think of would be if the water in the 2nd tank isn't heated up to match the first tank before transferring.
 
Could be chemical residue like capslok said, what are you using to clean the tanks between transfers?

Very possible. I never use bleach when cleaning during TT for this exact reason. Too risky. IME; vinegar and thorough air drying works just fine.
 
I did use bleach to clean tanks as recommended by some here but I did it on both tanks. Rinsed well and air dried for 36 hours. If vinegar will work I won't be using bleach again.

Should I ditch the #2 tank? Replacing it would not be expensive (less than any of the fish lost).

Would a temp change of 1.4 degrees cause this. The latest transfer the #1 tank was 80.0 and the #2 was 78.6F. I don't think there was that much difference the other two times.
 
I have never even bothered with bleach or vinegar. I just rinse and air dry for 72 hours.

How long are you letting your salt mix before using? And are you monitoring ammonia? If feeding too much you could be hitting them hard with too quick a build up... unlikely though IMO but worth a shot. Try doing a large water change end of day 2 next time.

Are you using a refractometer to test salinity each time?

That small temp difference is no problem.
 
Monitoring ammonia twice a day. Only had a reading of <0.25 on one occasion and it was not this fish. Treat with Amquel every 24 hours and have an air stone in each tank as well as an HOB filter and a power head pointed at the surface of the water.

I mix the salt for 24 hours and both tanks were filled at the same time this occasion so tank #2 had been running with that water for over 4 days.

How do you air dry for 72 hours? I have to set the tank up the day before it's used and starting with the 3rd transfer that would allow 48 hours at most. Am I thinking correctly about that?

I do use a refractometer and this time the shipping water was identical to the tanks. It's been off no more than 0.001 before (always below) in the past.

I'm pretty discouraged right now.
 
Agree about some sort of contaminant. I've used bleach for TTM and never had a problem. When bleach dries, it just leaves behind salt. Perhaps some of your equipment had some residual liquid in it that went into solution. I dose Prime when I fill the new tank to make sure any residual bleach gets neutralized.
 
I mix and heat my water in a Brute can, so all I have to do is pour the water in and put in the heater, airstone, and PVC. I know, airstone aren't really recommended, but I like the low flow for QT and use a brand new airstone for each transfer since they only cost like $1.50.
 
Monitoring ammonia twice a day. Only had a reading of <0.25 on one occasion and it was not this fish. Treat with Amquel every 24 hours and have an air stone in each tank as well as an HOB filter and a power head pointed at the surface of the water.

I mix the salt for 24 hours and both tanks were filled at the same time this occasion so tank #2 had been running with that water for over 4 days.

How do you air dry for 72 hours? I have to set the tank up the day before it's used and starting with the 3rd transfer that would allow 48 hours at most. Am I thinking correctly about that?

I do use a refractometer and this time the shipping water was identical to the tanks. It's been off no more than 0.001 before (always below) in the past.

I'm pretty discouraged right now.

I don't setup the next transfer tank until I need it. I clean out the old tank and equipment immediately after transferring the fish out of it to the new tank. So that gives my 72 hours +/- a little (considering it may take half a day or more for the rinsing water to fully evaporate... but still over 48 hours regardless).

I just use DT water for my TTM (albeit I have a 450g tank, so it provides a nice small water change). I have yet to lose a fish from TTM, while I lost tons of fish with Hypo and Copper. Is your DT ich-free (to your knowledge based on rigorous past protocol)?

As said above, either there is some residue of some chemical or something is wrong with the procedure (temp, salinity, KH differences [linked to pH], ammonia, etc).

My advice is to:
First: don't use bleach or vinegar, just allow air drying for 48 hours (all you need is 24, but just to play it safe)

Second: try TTM with DT water for just a couple transfers with your next fish, just so you have a constant to look at. This will at least tell us if has to do with salinity and/or your salt mix. If they don't make it, then it is something else with your procedure.

Edit -- also, ditch the powerhead and just use an airpump + airstone; throwing your used airstones away after each transfer.
 
Thanks Cliff and Steve. I pretty much do what you do but set up the next tank the night before transferring the next morning, so probably 60 hours between breakdown and setting back up. My reasoning has been to make sure the water temps are as close as possible just in case I bumped the heater setting during breakdown.


I like the idea of using tank water but sometimes fish come from the retailer at a much lower salinity (1.018 or so) I mix my water in large batches (30 gal) which is enough to fill both of my TT tanks. I could acclimate from the seller in my cycled QT and slowly bring up to DT salinity but I want it to be free of Ich and for observation and treatment for other disease (Prazi after TT).


DT has no sign of Ich. Have quarantined all fish (13) and treated all with either copper or hypo.

I'm thinking it may be the powerheads. It's very difficult to get them dry very quickly. I've been putting about a cup of bleach in the tank, filling with tap water and running all the equipment for an hour or so and then breakdown and rinse. Would that small amount of bleach containing water in a 10 gallon tank be enough to cause what I've seen? Would it take a few days to be seen (both tanks treated identically).


Thank you so much. I was ready to give up on TT
 
i know a lot of people will argue with me on this, but don't worry so much about the salinity difference between 1.018 and 1.025. if you want to be safe, just drip acclimate them for an hour up to the 1.025. then float them to get the temp up if there is much of a difference. i know people that drip from hypo (1.008) up to 1.025 and never had an issue, regardless of the negative potential consequences (I'm not personally advising that, but just saying...)

the running equipment, especially powerheads, with bleach water isn't sitting right with me... i think ditching that procedure will do wonders for you. along with switching to airstones instead of powerheads. make sure you are using a different air tube as well each time as well.

good luck and keep us updated!
 
Wanted to give a follow up and to thank you guys.

Switched to using DT water for my TT tanks and ditched the bleach and the power heads as you recommended. My latest fish (a 2" C. binotatus) went through TT like a breeze. Zero problems. He is in my larger cycled QT to get prazipro and observe for a couple of weeks. Thanks again Cliff and Steve!
 
Wanted to give a follow up and to thank you guys.

Switched to using DT water for my TT tanks and ditched the bleach and the power heads as you recommended. My latest fish (a 2" C. binotatus) went through TT like a breeze. Zero problems. He is in my larger cycled QT to get prazipro and observe for a couple of weeks. Thanks again Cliff and Steve!

You are most welcome. Once you get the hang of the process it is super easy and incredibly effective.
 
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