Tank transfer success stories.

[stlcards14]

As simple as the task of tank transfer is I still find my self struggling with it. When I first tried tank transferring my fish as a way of preventing ich it worked perfectly fine and I didn't really monitor anything other than ammonia. I thought that it was as simple as it sounds. Change the water the fish are in every three days to leave the ich behind and clean everything. A few other fish were QTed using this method and they were fine. Later on I bought 5 PJ cardinals and they all died on the third transfer due to PH dropping way to low. After that I decided to test for PH and ammonia and I tried to maintain PH using buffer but I still killed my fish. I heard that monitoring Kh would keep the PH stable but I still keep losing fish. Unfortunately I'm at a loss at what to do next. So I want to hear from people who have a lot of success with this method. How do you do it? Where am I going wrong? Am I just making a simple treatment more complicated than it needs to be? Thanks for anyone who can help me!

 

[snorvich]

I assume you are using Prime or equivalent in each transfer? And using freshly made saltwater of the same SG?

 

[HumbleFish]

I've used TT countless times, and honestly, I don't even check pH. I just make sure temp/SG matches perfectly each transfer. As I believe snorvich is alluding to, using ammonia neutralizers can lower your PH so maybe that is the problem.

 

[snorvich]

I've used TT countless times, and honestly, I don't even check pH. I just make sure temp/SG matches perfectly each transfer. As I believe snorvich is alluding to, using ammonia neutralizers can lower your PH so maybe that is the problem.

Exactly. I make up enough saltwater for all transfers setting it at the introduction SG of the transport water. That way there is no acclimation for SG, and minor acclimation for temperature. Ammonia neutralizers take care of the pH. Pretty much an error-less process as long as no water is inadvertently transferred.

 

[stlcards14]

I use amquil for ammonia and Prazi pro on transfers 2 and 4. Maybe I'm just trying to hard to keep it stable?

 

[snorvich]

Assuming no ammonia (do you test or use an ammonia alert?) and matching SG, I would not worry about pH.

 

[HumbleFish]

Assuming no ammonia (do you test or use an ammonia alert?) and matching SG, I would not worry about pH.

+1 Feed light and keep the fish to tank size ratio on your side; and even ammonia shouldn't be a concern after only 3 days.

 

[stlcards14]

I test

 

[snorvich]

When asking for help, the more information you can provide, the more likely answers supplied will be targeted appropriately. At the moment, it feels as if we have to pull information out of your process.

 

[stlcards14]

When I get a new fish I acclimate it to the new water that it is going to be QT in. I test the water once or twice a day and as of lately I've been adding KH buffer to try and maintain a stable PH. I run a heater, a bubbler, circulation fan, and I have tubing for the fish to hide in. I feed twice a day and transfer every three days. I dose amquil to try and keep ammonia down as wall. I keep salinity at 1.024.

 

[stlcards14]

I just tested water and here is what I'm at in my latest QT endeavors.

Ammonia 0 - API
KH 9 - ELOS
PH 7.9 - ELOS

I currently have damsels in QT because I'm trying to master the process and they are the cheapest fish you can buy. (I'm actually considering adding these ones to the display because from what I've read springeri damsels aren't quite as aggressive as most damsels and I LOVE the blue) here is a picture of the QT set up because a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[snorvich]

When I get a new fish I acclimate it to the new water that it is going to be QT in.

Actually, you want to make up saltwater for the transfers that match the transport water. Acclimation may or may not match SG and that will be a problem.

I test the water once or twice a day and as of lately I've been adding KH buffer to try and maintain a stable PH.

Forget pH. No additives except ammonia neutralization

I run a heater, a bubbler, circulation fan, and I have tubing for the fish to hide in. I feed twice a day

Feed very lightly and suck up any food remaining after 5 minutes and feed only once per day

and transfer every three days. I dose amquil to try and keep ammonia down as wall. I keep salinity at 1.024.

salinity should match tranport water which may be as low as 1.017. Use a calibrated refractometer.

 

[MrTuskfish]

Most ammonia test kits (like API) do not work with ammonia neutralizers such as Amquel, Prime,etc. The Ammonia Alert stick-ons, as Snorvich suggested, do.

 

[stlcards14]

Wow thanks for the help. I guess I'm just over doing it? I have a trash can that I fill with saltwater but I find myself blowing through it all the time. I have a 180 so the water changes are quite the step up from the 30 gallon I had 6 months ago. Do I forget KH too?

 

[snorvich]

Wow thanks for the help. I guess I'm just over doing it? I have a trash can that I fill with saltwater but I find myself blowing through it all the time. I have a 180 so the water changes are quite the step up from the 30 gallon I had 6 months ago. Do I forget KH too?

We are talking about TT only since that was your question.

 

[Maximus]

When do you add the Amquel? I assume you are supposed to add it when you transfer fish in the mornings? Or, do you add it every day during the tank transfer period?

 

[DasCamel]

When do you add the Amquel? I assume you are supposed to add it when you transfer fish in the mornings? Or, do you add it every day during the tank transfer period?

I did a little every day, the ammonia badge works with it. Even the first day before they went in. If it binds the ammonia as it's produced, zero issues for the fish.

Make sure you have good aeration/good surface agitation.

 

[Maximus]

Will do. I will use an air pump and an air stone on a 5g bucket. Looks like I'll be starting soon.