testing current (amperage) in water???

T

Tooboot

New member
I've read that using a multimeter I can test for voltage in my tank and sump. but I am also aware that voltage is only part of the equation and amperage/current is what can cause lots of damage.

can, using a multimeter, I check for the amperage in my tank. should I care? any signs, other than death, I should be aware of where there is a high risk of high voltage or current in the tank? don't want to shock the fish.

haven't done any tests with the multimeter yet, but with my DIY ATO and LEDs I plan on doing these tests shortly.

Scott
 
For you own protection, you do not want any stray voltage in your tank. It is only dangerous if you some how lead it to a ground, but it can happen. I periodically test mine with a voltmeter. Submerged equipment, particularly heaters can leak voltage and should be replaced if they do.
 
There can't be current without voltage. If there is a voltage between your tank water and ground, there will be current as soon as a path to ground is established. With your multimeter set on amps, you could provide that path to ground, but if the voltage is significant, it would likely blow a fuse in your multimeter or throw a circuit breaker.

The bottom line is, if there is voltage between your tank water and ground, you need to fix that problem before something very bad happens. If there is no voltage, there cannot be any current.

All electrical equipment in and around your aquarium should be plugged in to a GFCI circuit. Then any stray voltage that finds a path to ground will interrupt the power before bad things happen.
 
thanks,

currently all equipment is plugged into a GFCI receptacle that was installed on a dedicated 15amp breaker for this sole pupose. from the receptacle I have two powerbars running all of the equipment (one powerbar for the lights, and another with individual switches for everything else).

i haven't tested voltage yet, but will be doing that in the next couple of days. haven't tripped anything so I don't think it is urgent, but better safe than sorry. my biggest worry is the DIY ATO with the float switches I got from ebay.
 
just realized how confusing my post was.

the powerbars are plugged into a GFCI. all equipment is plugged into the powerbars. I'm not overly worried, more curious.
 
mcgyvr said:
absolutely yes..

one (with relatively simple skill) can also replace any normal outlet with a GFCI outlet..
Click to expand...

if changing the existing plug/outlet, simple enough, just be aware of what other things the circuit may be powering since it could be set off and cut power off to other appliances.
 
Tooboot said:
if changing the existing plug/outlet, simple enough, just be aware of what other things the circuit may be powering since it could be set off and cut power off to other appliances.
Click to expand...

Only devices load sided will be protected or tripped.
 
canadianeh said:
what's the option if I don't have GFCI outlet nearby?

can I use GFCI power bar and hook up my power bar to this GFCI power bar?

https://www.amazon.ca/Coleman-Cable...147187&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GFCI+power+bar
Click to expand...

The GFI outlet does not need to be the outlet that you plug the equipment in. The equipment just need to be "down stream" from the GFI. The GFI will protect everything past it but not before it. My GFI is on the outlet across the room from my tank because there was no way I was going to be able to put a GFI into the outlet box behind the tank. It works just fine.

Of course it might be difficult to determine how the circuit flows.
 
hkgar said:
The GFI outlet does not need to be the outlet that you plug the equipment in. The equipment just need to be "down stream" from the GFI. The GFI will protect everything past it but not before it. My GFI is on the outlet across the room from my tank because there was no way I was going to be able to put a GFI into the outlet box behind the tank. It works just fine.

Of course it might be difficult to determine how the circuit flows.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I have bought portable GFCI from Home Depot. I will connect my surge protector/power strip to the GFCI then from GFCI to the wall outlet
 
I had a problem with one of my heaters. I was physically was getting shocked. Since it was a heater it only happened when the water needed raising. So It was not constant to track it down.

I cycled through my apex and turned each item on one at a time and found it.

I got a replacement of the same type heater, and it had the same problem. (No I was not using it to pry things open with it first.) In working with the company it seemed like a bad batch. They replaced them all for free. I have since switched brands of all my heaters.

I just sat my voltmeter probe in the water and on a good ground. Test everything one at a time. All you need is a second or two and glance at the volt meter. Should not take too long.
 
worm5406 said:
I had a problem with one of my heaters. I was physically was getting shocked. Since it was a heater it only happened when the water needed raising. So It was not constant to track it down.

I cycled through my apex and turned each item on one at a time and found it.

I got a replacement of the same type heater, and it had the same problem. (No I was not using it to pry things open with it first.) In working with the company it seemed like a bad batch. They replaced them all for free. I have since switched brands of all my heaters.

I just sat my voltmeter probe in the water and on a good ground. Test everything one at a time. All you need is a second or two and glance at the volt meter. Should not take too long.
Click to expand...

Which heater brand?

Which voltmeter that you use to leave it in the water the whole time?
 
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