The 110 Tall (48x18x30) Project. Picture Intense!
- Thread starter cerreta
- Start date
Satori
Cancer Sucks
Scott, are your cats fast learners? (J/K!)
One of my cats used to jump on the canopy all the time. Ed was over one day and we had the canopy off. The cat jumped up on the tank (open-top now). I don't know how, but she did a spread eagle and caught herself on the trim and never got wet. That was the last time I've seen her on the canopy!
One of my cats used to jump on the canopy all the time. Ed was over one day and we had the canopy off. The cat jumped up on the tank (open-top now). I don't know how, but she did a spread eagle and caught herself on the trim and never got wet. That was the last time I've seen her on the canopy!
Wintermute
New member
I had a cat like that once. He would sit for hours at the edge of my old 10 gal. freshwater tank and try and get the newt I kept in there. And he would would have got him too, except he HATED to get his paws wet. So he would sit there all day and try to find a way to put his paw in the water without getting it wet. He'd try different positions, angles, speeds; once he even tried "stalking" the water by hiding behind the plastic trim around the edge. (A mighty hunter that one).
But back on subject...project looks great!
But back on subject...project looks great!
cerreta
Premium Member
Winter, cats are funny to watch. Mine all have unquie, bazzar behaviors.
Today I have been working on the electrical design. I will have four power strips. Two cords will plug into live sockets. The remaining 23 plugs will be plugged into one of the four power strips.
1. DC8 Outlet Module connects to Neptune controller (Outlet Spacing: Close)
2. Power DJ 8 outlets of on/off rocker switches Outlet Spacing: Close)
3. Power Sentry 6 always on Outlets (Outlet Spacing: Four close, and two converter spaced)
4. Power Sentry 4 always on Outlets (Outlet Spacing: Four converter spaced)
The Power Sentry strips were purchased at Walmart and I already have them. I only need to purchase the DJ8.
Today I have been working on the electrical design. I will have four power strips. Two cords will plug into live sockets. The remaining 23 plugs will be plugged into one of the four power strips.
1. DC8 Outlet Module connects to Neptune controller (Outlet Spacing: Close)
2. Power DJ 8 outlets of on/off rocker switches Outlet Spacing: Close)
3. Power Sentry 6 always on Outlets (Outlet Spacing: Four close, and two converter spaced)
4. Power Sentry 4 always on Outlets (Outlet Spacing: Four converter spaced)
The Power Sentry strips were purchased at Walmart and I already have them. I only need to purchase the DJ8.
cerreta
Premium Member
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦ and so the project continues. Phase II is building the stand. There are a few caveats that are important in this build:
1. Maximum room must be available in the sump area to permit moving around and tinkering with stuff.
2. The reef will be placed in a room with Mexican Saltillo tile. This is a very uneven tile, thus the stand can not have a solid bottom. Instead, the stand will rest on the floor only by the four corners. The sump floor will be raised 3/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ off the ground and foam will be placed beneath it for additional support.
3. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t like paint on furniture. Therefore, the inside of the stand will be stained, with Minwax polyurethane. This stuff is more difficult to apply and it tends to hide the wood grain, but it offers more protection than the Watco stain. The Watco will be used on the exterior skin, just like the canopy.
4. I have yet to have problems with salt creep damaging my current stand protected with Minwax (used on beams and walls of stand). However, the flooring is another matter. I have often had leaks or spillage from the sump and return pump. IMO, a painted or stained deck is just not enough protection. The sump floor deserves a waterproof floor. I will use white shower board ($25 at HD for 4x8 sheet) to seal the bottom and edges of the sump floor and treat the seems with silicone. I have used this design successfully in the past and will continue the tradition in this stand.
5. I do not want any braces in the front of the stand. I want maximum access into the sump area. Two braces will be used in the back for support.
6. I wanted a perfectly square stand. I have built aquarium furniture before, and it always comes up a bit off on measurements. This time I will be using a Kreg Pocket Hole jig and a craftsman 90 degree angle clamp for the perfect corners. I will build the sump floor first, as this will be the rigid backbone to the stand with perfect square corners. The stand legs will then be fastened to this square frame.
Okay, here are the details:
The Tank: (OD including the black trim): 48x18x30 (LxWxH) 110gallon tall.
The Sump: (OD including the black trim) 36x16x16.5 (LxWxH) 40gallon.
The Stand: 48.25x20x32 (LxWxH). The stand is 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ wider than the tank, this is to accommodate the sump with an extra inch of room to permit for silicone caulk. It also gives room for water spillage to sit on the sump floor before spilling out into the living room. The sump floor sits 1 7/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ above the ground. The total height available inside the sump is 29 1/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. Overall height is 32ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ with a solid Ã"šÃ‚¾Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ plywood top.
This is the sump floor frame. It is drilled with pocket holes to fasten the corners and assure rigidity. It came out perfectly square, as I had hoped. To maximize the avalilable space inside the sump, I decided not to place the sump floor on top of the frame. Instead, I routed an edge in the frame and will countersink 3/8" plywood flooring. All the pocketholes will be covered up with the white shower board.
Putting the sump frame together using a $25.00 Craftsman 90 degree clamp. Great tool!!!
Here is the Craftsman clamp at work with a 180 degree hold.
The shower board is being applied to the sump floor for fitting. It was cut about an inch larger than needed. I used a router with flush trim bit to trim off all the excess. It will then be removed. The shower board is now the right size and will be cemented on after all the legs and braces have been fixed with pocket screws.
Router in action with a flush trim bit, to trim off excess shower board.
Craftsman clamp at work with the legs. I do not use any screws in the legs, because they tend to split the wood. I only use wood glue here. The joining braces will be screwed to the legs with pocket holes.
In order to raise the sump floor evenly 3/8" above the ground, I used the 3/8" sump floor plywood sheet and placed it underneath the floor frame. Then, the legs were glued and affixed to the frame with pocket screws.
I will finish up the stand frame tomorrow. Maybe I will get the tank on there and figure out what to do with the CLC and plumbing.
BTW, I have accumulated the lumber, sump, and Panworld return pump from Birthday gifts and cash. See, getting older is rewarding!!! Thanks family for the great gifts!!!
1. Maximum room must be available in the sump area to permit moving around and tinkering with stuff.
2. The reef will be placed in a room with Mexican Saltillo tile. This is a very uneven tile, thus the stand can not have a solid bottom. Instead, the stand will rest on the floor only by the four corners. The sump floor will be raised 3/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ off the ground and foam will be placed beneath it for additional support.
3. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t like paint on furniture. Therefore, the inside of the stand will be stained, with Minwax polyurethane. This stuff is more difficult to apply and it tends to hide the wood grain, but it offers more protection than the Watco stain. The Watco will be used on the exterior skin, just like the canopy.
4. I have yet to have problems with salt creep damaging my current stand protected with Minwax (used on beams and walls of stand). However, the flooring is another matter. I have often had leaks or spillage from the sump and return pump. IMO, a painted or stained deck is just not enough protection. The sump floor deserves a waterproof floor. I will use white shower board ($25 at HD for 4x8 sheet) to seal the bottom and edges of the sump floor and treat the seems with silicone. I have used this design successfully in the past and will continue the tradition in this stand.
5. I do not want any braces in the front of the stand. I want maximum access into the sump area. Two braces will be used in the back for support.
6. I wanted a perfectly square stand. I have built aquarium furniture before, and it always comes up a bit off on measurements. This time I will be using a Kreg Pocket Hole jig and a craftsman 90 degree angle clamp for the perfect corners. I will build the sump floor first, as this will be the rigid backbone to the stand with perfect square corners. The stand legs will then be fastened to this square frame.
Okay, here are the details:
The Tank: (OD including the black trim): 48x18x30 (LxWxH) 110gallon tall.
The Sump: (OD including the black trim) 36x16x16.5 (LxWxH) 40gallon.
The Stand: 48.25x20x32 (LxWxH). The stand is 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ wider than the tank, this is to accommodate the sump with an extra inch of room to permit for silicone caulk. It also gives room for water spillage to sit on the sump floor before spilling out into the living room. The sump floor sits 1 7/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ above the ground. The total height available inside the sump is 29 1/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. Overall height is 32ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ with a solid Ã"šÃ‚¾Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ plywood top.
This is the sump floor frame. It is drilled with pocket holes to fasten the corners and assure rigidity. It came out perfectly square, as I had hoped. To maximize the avalilable space inside the sump, I decided not to place the sump floor on top of the frame. Instead, I routed an edge in the frame and will countersink 3/8" plywood flooring. All the pocketholes will be covered up with the white shower board.
Putting the sump frame together using a $25.00 Craftsman 90 degree clamp. Great tool!!!
Here is the Craftsman clamp at work with a 180 degree hold.
The shower board is being applied to the sump floor for fitting. It was cut about an inch larger than needed. I used a router with flush trim bit to trim off all the excess. It will then be removed. The shower board is now the right size and will be cemented on after all the legs and braces have been fixed with pocket screws.
Router in action with a flush trim bit, to trim off excess shower board.
Craftsman clamp at work with the legs. I do not use any screws in the legs, because they tend to split the wood. I only use wood glue here. The joining braces will be screwed to the legs with pocket holes.
In order to raise the sump floor evenly 3/8" above the ground, I used the 3/8" sump floor plywood sheet and placed it underneath the floor frame. Then, the legs were glued and affixed to the frame with pocket screws.
I will finish up the stand frame tomorrow. Maybe I will get the tank on there and figure out what to do with the CLC and plumbing.
BTW, I have accumulated the lumber, sump, and Panworld return pump from Birthday gifts and cash. See, getting older is rewarding!!! Thanks family for the great gifts!!!
cerreta
Premium Member
I did some more work on the stand today. After finishing up the top frame support, this thing came out SOLID!!! I decided not to add any back support beams. It will be completly open as the front. My current 80 ngallon has no support beams either and it never failed or showed signs of stress. Furthermore. I saw a commercially built stand for a 110 tall and it mostly featured plywood supports. I have always heard and read that the DIY projects go a bit overboard with structure.
Therefore, I am certain this will design will be suitable for the 110 tall. If it fails or stresses, I will be sure to post it.
Anyhow, I am a big fan of max room under the stand, is this just gives more access into the stand from th eback too.
Here is today's progress.
Shot of the raised sump floor.
Top frame being assembled
Completed top frame and it is SQUARE!!! woohoo!
ANother shot of frame
When I drew out the plans, I forgot to account for the extra two inches added to the back. This would cause the back part of tank to sit on the gap, not a beam. So I added an extra beam to the top of the frame only. The top will be covered by 3/4" plywood, so this is just precautionary, probably not necessary.
The top is on and will now be trimmed with a flush router bit. Holes for plumbing will be done at a later time.
The Minwax Dark walnut stain was applied in two coats, with a foam brush. The bottom sump section was not stained, since it will have a waterproof flooring and contact adhesive does not stick well to stain.
I am replacing three Radio Shack 4" fans ($25.00 each) with two 6.5" Rotron Comair 120volt Patriot fans ($20.00 new on ebay). These things rock. . . and crank out 220 cfm each . The air output is intense and so is the sound of air turbulance. The fan motors themslves are quiet, but the air volume is loud. Since output on these two fans about triples that of the three 4" fans, I decided to add a light dimmer switch ($4.00 at target). To my delight, it works perfectly. I was not sure if it would work with fans, but it did. I now have the fan volume trottled back for noise control. The air volume is still much greater than that of the 4" fans.
This pic shows a size comparison of the new patriot compared to the 4" fans. You can also see that the Patriot is mounted to a Watco stained template, that will allow the round fan to mount easily to the canopy.
Here is a close up of the fan. I solder all electrical contions and treat care wires with shrink tubing.
The Patriot is mounted to the canopy.
That is all for now.
Therefore, I am certain this will design will be suitable for the 110 tall. If it fails or stresses, I will be sure to post it.
Anyhow, I am a big fan of max room under the stand, is this just gives more access into the stand from th eback too.
Here is today's progress.
Shot of the raised sump floor.
Top frame being assembled
Completed top frame and it is SQUARE!!! woohoo!
ANother shot of frame
When I drew out the plans, I forgot to account for the extra two inches added to the back. This would cause the back part of tank to sit on the gap, not a beam. So I added an extra beam to the top of the frame only. The top will be covered by 3/4" plywood, so this is just precautionary, probably not necessary.
The top is on and will now be trimmed with a flush router bit. Holes for plumbing will be done at a later time.
The Minwax Dark walnut stain was applied in two coats, with a foam brush. The bottom sump section was not stained, since it will have a waterproof flooring and contact adhesive does not stick well to stain.
I am replacing three Radio Shack 4" fans ($25.00 each) with two 6.5" Rotron Comair 120volt Patriot fans ($20.00 new on ebay). These things rock. . . and crank out 220 cfm each . The air output is intense and so is the sound of air turbulance. The fan motors themslves are quiet, but the air volume is loud. Since output on these two fans about triples that of the three 4" fans, I decided to add a light dimmer switch ($4.00 at target). To my delight, it works perfectly. I was not sure if it would work with fans, but it did. I now have the fan volume trottled back for noise control. The air volume is still much greater than that of the 4" fans.
This pic shows a size comparison of the new patriot compared to the 4" fans. You can also see that the Patriot is mounted to a Watco stained template, that will allow the round fan to mount easily to the canopy.
Here is a close up of the fan. I solder all electrical contions and treat care wires with shrink tubing.
The Patriot is mounted to the canopy.
That is all for now.
majestic sea life
New member
Looking good man. Cant wait to see it with corals. Whats your stocking list?
~Brian
~Brian
cerreta
Premium Member
Today, I finished the stand skeleton. The sump flooring was put in and waterproofed with shower board and siliconed seaming.
The shower board material is about $20 for a 4x8 ft sheet at HD. It is very easy to cut, just score it like glass and break it. The edges will be rough and will need some sanding. I used a dremel for this task to sand teh edges. The board is made of fiberglass, so wear long sleeves and gloves.
Stand before adding the wood floor.
Wood floor in place and the contact sdhesive has been brushed on. It was also brushed onto the bottom surface of the shower board. Adhesive on both surfaces makes the bond premanent.
Shower board bottom in place.
Shower board fitted to the sides of the sump floor.
Close-up of a corner before silicone beading.
Silicone beading seals the floor and makes it waterproof.
I want with the biggest sump that would fit in this ares, a 40 gallon tank. 36x16x17 (LxWxH)
Bottom of the stand. The sump floor will be treated with the same Minwax stain for protection.
I will hold off on making the stand skin until the final stages. That way, it won't get scarred up with all the plumbng trials.
Up next will be sump design and return pump fitting.
After that will be building a Durso Standpipe and fitting the return lines in the overflow. I have a very nifty idea for this, and I'm not sure if it will work. I will post progression pics.
The idea extends with the caveat that I want maximum room uner the canopy and no obstacles hanging above the tank, this includes return lines.
I like the sleek look of bulkheads drilled through the overflow. I will place two or three of these about 6" from the water surface.
The anticipated problem will be creating a functional siphon so that I do not drain 6" of water when the power goes out. The sump will handle 12 gallons, but not 35+.
So, the idea I have is to put a 5 way junction (1" PVC) on the return line inside the overflow box. One is connected to riser pipe, three are connected to the main tank via bulkheads and one will be reduced to small rigid bore tubing. This will extend up to the overflow slits on the back side of the tank. I will slide it through the slit, so it can not be viewed from the front of the tank.
In theory, when the pump is turned off, the water will drain through the overflow, once the water level is below the overflow slits, the overflow drain will break suction and stop draining. Like wise, the rigid bore tubing will not be above teh water surface and too should break suction and stop draining from the bulkheads located 6" below the water surface.
Has anyone tried this before? Is it likely to work, or is the force of gravity going to force water into the the bulkheads theus, draining them further.
Maybe, if that fails, I can just run the 1" PVC to the water surface, then use two 90 ells to run back down to a 4 way junction. I can drill a siphon hole in this little loop and that should work for sure. Shouldn't it.
The shower board material is about $20 for a 4x8 ft sheet at HD. It is very easy to cut, just score it like glass and break it. The edges will be rough and will need some sanding. I used a dremel for this task to sand teh edges. The board is made of fiberglass, so wear long sleeves and gloves.
Stand before adding the wood floor.
Wood floor in place and the contact sdhesive has been brushed on. It was also brushed onto the bottom surface of the shower board. Adhesive on both surfaces makes the bond premanent.
Shower board bottom in place.
Shower board fitted to the sides of the sump floor.
Close-up of a corner before silicone beading.
Silicone beading seals the floor and makes it waterproof.
I want with the biggest sump that would fit in this ares, a 40 gallon tank. 36x16x17 (LxWxH)
Bottom of the stand. The sump floor will be treated with the same Minwax stain for protection.
I will hold off on making the stand skin until the final stages. That way, it won't get scarred up with all the plumbng trials.
Up next will be sump design and return pump fitting.
After that will be building a Durso Standpipe and fitting the return lines in the overflow. I have a very nifty idea for this, and I'm not sure if it will work. I will post progression pics.
The idea extends with the caveat that I want maximum room uner the canopy and no obstacles hanging above the tank, this includes return lines.
I like the sleek look of bulkheads drilled through the overflow. I will place two or three of these about 6" from the water surface.
The anticipated problem will be creating a functional siphon so that I do not drain 6" of water when the power goes out. The sump will handle 12 gallons, but not 35+.
So, the idea I have is to put a 5 way junction (1" PVC) on the return line inside the overflow box. One is connected to riser pipe, three are connected to the main tank via bulkheads and one will be reduced to small rigid bore tubing. This will extend up to the overflow slits on the back side of the tank. I will slide it through the slit, so it can not be viewed from the front of the tank.
In theory, when the pump is turned off, the water will drain through the overflow, once the water level is below the overflow slits, the overflow drain will break suction and stop draining. Like wise, the rigid bore tubing will not be above teh water surface and too should break suction and stop draining from the bulkheads located 6" below the water surface.
Has anyone tried this before? Is it likely to work, or is the force of gravity going to force water into the the bulkheads theus, draining them further.
Maybe, if that fails, I can just run the 1" PVC to the water surface, then use two 90 ells to run back down to a 4 way junction. I can drill a siphon hole in this little loop and that should work for sure. Shouldn't it.
cerreta
Premium Member
Glad there is some interest. Tomorrow I will begin working on the sump layout. I am very tempted to do all the baffles in glass, since I have invested in the drill bits and files, there is no reason not to. I just need to find some 1/4" glass.
The design will be very similar to my hi-flow, single pump Sump-a-fuge (you can see the specs in my gallery), but I will include a filter sock for detrius removal and may change how the skimmer is stored in the sump. Also, this will not be a hi-flow sump, since the pump will be much smaller and a separate pump will be utilized for circulation via a CLC.
The design will be very similar to my hi-flow, single pump Sump-a-fuge (you can see the specs in my gallery), but I will include a filter sock for detrius removal and may change how the skimmer is stored in the sump. Also, this will not be a hi-flow sump, since the pump will be much smaller and a separate pump will be utilized for circulation via a CLC.
cerreta
Premium Member
I peeled the stickers off the sump today, that is pretty lame. 
I spent a large portion of the day reading The Reef Aquarium Volume 3. It is packed with equipment issues and aquarium design. This book rocks if you are building a new reef or condsidering upgrading some equipment!!!
I will make the baffles from glass. I cut my first pieces today, it was quite simple and fun to do. I was very tempted to use acrylic since I usually have some scraps around the house, but I had very little. I priced a 24x36 sheet of 1/4" at Lowes at $48:furious:
So, I bought loose glass from the sale rack at a glass shop for $26.00.
I spent a large portion of the day reading The Reef Aquarium Volume 3. It is packed with equipment issues and aquarium design. This book rocks if you are building a new reef or condsidering upgrading some equipment!!!
I will make the baffles from glass. I cut my first pieces today, it was quite simple and fun to do. I was very tempted to use acrylic since I usually have some scraps around the house, but I had very little. I priced a 24x36 sheet of 1/4" at Lowes at $48:furious:
So, I bought loose glass from the sale rack at a glass shop for $26.00.
cerreta
Premium Member
. . . today I was working on the sump. I installed the glass baffles, drilled the return pump hole for a 1" bulkhead, and made a glass monitoring probe rack.
Here are the pics:
The tank was marked on the outside where each baffle will be placed and siliconed. This is easy to remove with a bit of water and scrubbing, if done the same day. If not, acetone removes the marker lines.
Here is the drawing for the bulkhead hole.
A plastic container is cut in half and the open ring portion is duck taped to the glass. Water is poured into the fixture to keep the bit cool while cutting. I use a standard hand drill for this task. The Dewalt is a great drill becasuse the finger control is easy to controll the drill speed. I run the drill about half speed.
Half way through with the cutting. This bit has been used on five holes now and is about at the end of its life. It is drilling this hile a bit slow.
Success
Bulkhead in place
The baffles have been added and siliconed in place. The clamps squeeze the glass to hold the baffles tight, then tomorrow, I will release them to allow the silicone to finish curing.
This is the glass holder for monitor probes. Each hole was drilled with a 12mm bit, but this size was a bit small fro the probe. The final reaming was done with a dimond bit round bit, chucked in the drill press. In this pic, I used a small piece of 3/4" schedule 20 PVC as a water ring. Taped it down, marked the glass on the back surface, used the laser to pinpoint the hole center, clamped the glass in place, poured water into the retainer ring, then drilled. If you begin hearing a high pitch squeal, then the glass is heating up, back out the bit to let water into the hole, tehn proceed. These holes cut fast, about 30 seconds each. The big hole drilled in about two minutes.
The finished product is on the left with four holes for pH, Temp, ORP, and a grounding probe. The piece on the right cracked as I clamped the glass to the metal drill press table. I solved this problem by placing a piece of cardboard under the second piece of glass and is drilled through just fine.
Next up, will be placing many small, 1/4" strips of acrylic in the sump to serve as support slides for black eggcrate dividers. I used this in my last sump and it worked great. See my gallery pics for shots of these. The nice thing about the eggcrate is that it can be pulled out of the support sliders and periodically cleaned. I use the dividers to keep the macr algae in the fuge where it belongs. It also sets up the Live Rock chamber in the drain section of the sump. I like the black, it looks cool and retards algae growth.
Here are the pics:
The tank was marked on the outside where each baffle will be placed and siliconed. This is easy to remove with a bit of water and scrubbing, if done the same day. If not, acetone removes the marker lines.
Here is the drawing for the bulkhead hole.
A plastic container is cut in half and the open ring portion is duck taped to the glass. Water is poured into the fixture to keep the bit cool while cutting. I use a standard hand drill for this task. The Dewalt is a great drill becasuse the finger control is easy to controll the drill speed. I run the drill about half speed.
Half way through with the cutting. This bit has been used on five holes now and is about at the end of its life. It is drilling this hile a bit slow.
Success
Bulkhead in place
The baffles have been added and siliconed in place. The clamps squeeze the glass to hold the baffles tight, then tomorrow, I will release them to allow the silicone to finish curing.
This is the glass holder for monitor probes. Each hole was drilled with a 12mm bit, but this size was a bit small fro the probe. The final reaming was done with a dimond bit round bit, chucked in the drill press. In this pic, I used a small piece of 3/4" schedule 20 PVC as a water ring. Taped it down, marked the glass on the back surface, used the laser to pinpoint the hole center, clamped the glass in place, poured water into the retainer ring, then drilled. If you begin hearing a high pitch squeal, then the glass is heating up, back out the bit to let water into the hole, tehn proceed. These holes cut fast, about 30 seconds each. The big hole drilled in about two minutes.
The finished product is on the left with four holes for pH, Temp, ORP, and a grounding probe. The piece on the right cracked as I clamped the glass to the metal drill press table. I solved this problem by placing a piece of cardboard under the second piece of glass and is drilled through just fine.
Next up, will be placing many small, 1/4" strips of acrylic in the sump to serve as support slides for black eggcrate dividers. I used this in my last sump and it worked great. See my gallery pics for shots of these. The nice thing about the eggcrate is that it can be pulled out of the support sliders and periodically cleaned. I use the dividers to keep the macr algae in the fuge where it belongs. It also sets up the Live Rock chamber in the drain section of the sump. I like the black, it looks cool and retards algae growth.
cerreta
Premium Member
. . . ok, I have two days of work to post. Saturday I finished up with the sump by placing black eggcrate in it as dividers. This helps keep stuff in the fuge section.
Here are the pics:
The eggcrate is kept in place by strips of acrylic Gooped to the glass. Goop is permanent, whereas silicone is not. Goop works better for gluing, while silicone works better for sealing corners. Goop also sets faster.
Probe bracing.
Sump with eggcrate in place
Sump probes
I stared and stared for two hours to decide where I want the CLC return lines to be placed. I also had a problem. I did not want to drill through the black 1/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ thick plastic sheet on the bottom. I wanted it removed so I could see the glass as I drilled. Well, when trying to peel back the plastic sheet I ripped it to shreds! It will be replace later with 1/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ whiteboard.
I already know where the drain bulkhead would go, that was easy. With no room in the overflow, I was forced to place the drain in the main tank. To fit in with the system design caveats (No drilling back wall, Maximize room in Sump area, Hide all returns, and Nothing hanging over tank to Maximize tank access) I wanted to be sure the drain was high enough off the ground not to suck in any sand. It also needed to be in a place that can be hidden by rock and accessed to remove debris from the strainer when clogged.
Finally, I decided on the CLC return line locations. The lines were marked:
Holes are drilled
Sample fit of the bulkheads with some plumbing attached
Here are the pics:
The eggcrate is kept in place by strips of acrylic Gooped to the glass. Goop is permanent, whereas silicone is not. Goop works better for gluing, while silicone works better for sealing corners. Goop also sets faster.
Probe bracing.
Sump with eggcrate in place
Sump probes
I stared and stared for two hours to decide where I want the CLC return lines to be placed. I also had a problem. I did not want to drill through the black 1/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ thick plastic sheet on the bottom. I wanted it removed so I could see the glass as I drilled. Well, when trying to peel back the plastic sheet I ripped it to shreds! It will be replace later with 1/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ whiteboard.
I already know where the drain bulkhead would go, that was easy. With no room in the overflow, I was forced to place the drain in the main tank. To fit in with the system design caveats (No drilling back wall, Maximize room in Sump area, Hide all returns, and Nothing hanging over tank to Maximize tank access) I wanted to be sure the drain was high enough off the ground not to suck in any sand. It also needed to be in a place that can be hidden by rock and accessed to remove debris from the strainer when clogged.
Finally, I decided on the CLC return line locations. The lines were marked:
Holes are drilled
Sample fit of the bulkheads with some plumbing attached
