I know you hear a lot of disadvantages, like a cramped under-stand space, difficulty of accessing the central back overflow, and extra cost...but there are good features, too.
I have two corner bows, a 54 gallon freshwater one at one end of the living room, and a 105 gallon reef at the other end.
And the advantages---
1. well, first, I don't have space for ONE big tank. I do have two unused corners.
2. they're quite a lot of extra space for the area. The reef, for example, is a 30" x 30" x 30" tank with a 48" long front because of the bow. Fish and corals can use that extra space.
3. they look even bigger if you don't wallpaper the sides. I'm un-wallpapering mine this weekend, having decided the black film on the sides is just not my preference. This means when you look at them from the front (and also from the viewpoint of the fish) there is a mirrorlike reflection on either side, so your tank looks much larger, and you can also see back into the rockwork. My supersized domino damsel is totally freaked at the sudden appearance of another supersized domino damsel. She even missed a meal, hiding in the rockwork. But she'll get used to it. They do.
4. their position makes them an element of room design, not an object the size of a piano that has to be accommodated...if you are already cramped for space, that is a factor. My own towers higher than my head so I do have to use a ladder to get positioned to intervene in it---and even so I can't quite reach the sand, let alone the bottom. But---the invention of really good magnet cleaners (Tunze Care Magnet) and maturity of the tank---does make life easier. If you're lucky enough to have a basement, especially an unfinished area with a floor drain and utility sink, life can be much, much easier.
5. lighting is a LOT less spendy for a tank that is sort of a squished cube, rather than a long run.
Overcoming the obstacles and inconveniences of a corner tank.
1. take it easy and be sure your chemistry stays in params. This eliminates algaes and other problems that would necessitate reaching into the tank.
2. if you can possibly have a basement or closet (on other side of wall) sump, excellent. If you can't, you can still use that triangular stand---if you install the sump before setting the tank atop. Use the corners for baskets of equipment and test kits.
3. put large furniture glides under it during set-up. This means you actually stand a chance of moving it if you must. Just leave them. You can markedly lessen the weight of the tank if you rapidly pump a lot of the water out. At nearly 9 lbs a gallon, this is a big help. If you have to shove it---get a friend to the other side, and *count and coordinate* your pushes: rhythmic tiny shoves by not-supermen can get an elephant of a tank into motion. [As an alternative to this doomsday scenario, leave enough space between tank and wall to let you reach back to the downflow area with a mirror---and flashlight. This can spot that Helfricki firefish that has taken up residence there. What you do at this point is HOPE he heads for the sump. The tendency of skinny fish to get into downflow slots cannot be cured: I advise against stocking that sort of fish, because he will only do it again. Sorry. The shape of the tank also means no tangs. No fish that need to run long distances.]
---I write this as I am preparing to trade thick carpet for laminate in that room---and I am going to do exactly as above: lower the water level and remove a lot of the rock (120 lbs) and move the tank off the carpet and onto bare underfloor. Then rewater and add rock until floor is done on that side, about one day. Then I again de-water the tank and set rock aside---and call two professional movers to set that sucker up on its new floor. At a certain point, this is cheaper than personal injury. A 5/8ths inch glass 100+ gallon tank with sand and some rock and water in it IS a job for the guys who know how to lift. They have to move it 30" forward and 5/8ths inch upward. For this I call 2 movers.
I have two corner bows, a 54 gallon freshwater one at one end of the living room, and a 105 gallon reef at the other end.
And the advantages---
1. well, first, I don't have space for ONE big tank. I do have two unused corners.
2. they're quite a lot of extra space for the area. The reef, for example, is a 30" x 30" x 30" tank with a 48" long front because of the bow. Fish and corals can use that extra space.
3. they look even bigger if you don't wallpaper the sides. I'm un-wallpapering mine this weekend, having decided the black film on the sides is just not my preference. This means when you look at them from the front (and also from the viewpoint of the fish) there is a mirrorlike reflection on either side, so your tank looks much larger, and you can also see back into the rockwork. My supersized domino damsel is totally freaked at the sudden appearance of another supersized domino damsel. She even missed a meal, hiding in the rockwork. But she'll get used to it. They do.
4. their position makes them an element of room design, not an object the size of a piano that has to be accommodated...if you are already cramped for space, that is a factor. My own towers higher than my head so I do have to use a ladder to get positioned to intervene in it---and even so I can't quite reach the sand, let alone the bottom. But---the invention of really good magnet cleaners (Tunze Care Magnet) and maturity of the tank---does make life easier. If you're lucky enough to have a basement, especially an unfinished area with a floor drain and utility sink, life can be much, much easier.
5. lighting is a LOT less spendy for a tank that is sort of a squished cube, rather than a long run.
Overcoming the obstacles and inconveniences of a corner tank.
1. take it easy and be sure your chemistry stays in params. This eliminates algaes and other problems that would necessitate reaching into the tank.
2. if you can possibly have a basement or closet (on other side of wall) sump, excellent. If you can't, you can still use that triangular stand---if you install the sump before setting the tank atop. Use the corners for baskets of equipment and test kits.
3. put large furniture glides under it during set-up. This means you actually stand a chance of moving it if you must. Just leave them. You can markedly lessen the weight of the tank if you rapidly pump a lot of the water out. At nearly 9 lbs a gallon, this is a big help. If you have to shove it---get a friend to the other side, and *count and coordinate* your pushes: rhythmic tiny shoves by not-supermen can get an elephant of a tank into motion. [As an alternative to this doomsday scenario, leave enough space between tank and wall to let you reach back to the downflow area with a mirror---and flashlight. This can spot that Helfricki firefish that has taken up residence there. What you do at this point is HOPE he heads for the sump. The tendency of skinny fish to get into downflow slots cannot be cured: I advise against stocking that sort of fish, because he will only do it again. Sorry. The shape of the tank also means no tangs. No fish that need to run long distances.]
---I write this as I am preparing to trade thick carpet for laminate in that room---and I am going to do exactly as above: lower the water level and remove a lot of the rock (120 lbs) and move the tank off the carpet and onto bare underfloor. Then rewater and add rock until floor is done on that side, about one day. Then I again de-water the tank and set rock aside---and call two professional movers to set that sucker up on its new floor. At a certain point, this is cheaper than personal injury. A 5/8ths inch glass 100+ gallon tank with sand and some rock and water in it IS a job for the guys who know how to lift. They have to move it 30" forward and 5/8ths inch upward. For this I call 2 movers.
