ReefkeeperZ
New member
Pretty cool thread can wait to see what else comes out of it
The budget bruiser LED build...
- Thread starter lingwendil
- Start date
lingwendil
Man who sold the world
Doesn't the edit option only remain available for a short time after then post was made?
Tim
Just waiting on the controller/driver board from a certain someone
nice i'm watching that thread i hope he gets his light going. its a nice controller neater wiring than my setup.
I wired up the drivers to the LEDs on my reef setup last night. still waiting on another pi to get it going but at least got the tricky soldering part done, and got all of it tested.
I think its a 50+ post thing i've never seen an edit button on this forum. kinda a wierd thing to restrict.
lingwendil
Man who sold the world
I see an edit button on all my recent posts, somehow. I've also given myself quite a shock to see that I've been a member of the forum for over thirteen years :eek1:
so i'm too late into this build to use them but i have a fish room build that i want to do on peanuts soon that i'm looking for options to go cheaper. anyone messed with these cheap Chinese drivers?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-3W-5-...d=282283067015&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-3W-5-...d=282283067015&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
lingwendil
Man who sold the world
Looks like a basic LM3414 design or similar... but seems to have inverted logic?
Easy enough to deal with if true.
In my experience with most Chinese electronic devices the capacitors tend to be the weak point, but for something like this I bet they would work just fine.
With LDD-L drivers being as cheap as $3.49 each shipped from LEDsupply it's a small savings though, and they aren't potted either, which may matter to some.
Easy enough to deal with if true.
In my experience with most Chinese electronic devices the capacitors tend to be the weak point, but for something like this I bet they would work just fine.
With LDD-L drivers being as cheap as $3.49 each shipped from LEDsupply it's a small savings though, and they aren't potted either, which may matter to some.
oreo57
Well-known member
Driver IC of "that" board..
XL4001E1
XLSemi
not that it matters much.
Input voltage limited to 45V.. putting 48V ps out of spec..........
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/763180/ETC2/XL4001E1.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50PCS-XL40...291562701343?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
XL4001E1
XLSemi
not that it matters much.
Input voltage limited to 45V.. putting 48V ps out of spec..........
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/763180/ETC2/XL4001E1.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50PCS-XL40...291562701343?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Last edited:
Just waiting on the controller/driver board from a certain someone
I'm waiting on a solder stencil, the one I ordered was a no-show :sad2: I could hand-solder them like I did for mine but I think the soldering quality will be better with the stencil.
The light is ready to go as of last night, updated to get 0.1% dimming resolution to get really low for moonlight and it looks good. Installed the hanging kit, endcaps and splash shield last night, just gotta hang it now. Going to wait till the weekend to keep an eye on things though.
lingwendil
Man who sold the world
Hey, I'm in no real hurry :wave:
I'd rather it be easy to do right so I get my two perfect boards.
Still haven't had the time to fool with code yet.
I'd rather it be easy to do right so I get my two perfect boards.
Still haven't had the time to fool with code yet.
Hey, I'm in no real hurry :wave:
I'd rather it be easy to do right so I get my two perfect boards.
Still haven't had the time to fool with code yet.
Sounds good, replacement was sent yesterday. I noticed a bug with the code last night where right when it finished ramping from full brightness to the sunset level the cool white channels went to full brightness before turning off. Always fun chasing down the last random bugs :headwally:
lingwendil
Man who sold the world
Hate waiting for parts to arrive... Threw together a design for an 8 channel driver since I can't build anything yet
Does it make sense to use a barrel connector with a header for PWM? Better to just use wire to board connectors for input voltage as well perhaps?
I personally like to use 1/8" stereo headphone style jacks for PWM, but a header would work too. Could always do up a quick harness to plug into it that runs to the endcaps of the fixture, also more versatile for running things like cat6 RJ45 sockets for PWM.
For power, barrel jacks work if used in ratings, but I would want something like a screw terminal strip or Molex headers up at High currents.
oreo57
Well-known member
The barrel jack used on the Wemos board is only rated for 6A I think so I'll probably change it to something like the PTSM series (same connectors used on the blue acro driver) with two pins for positive and negative. RJ45 would be nice but it's only 8 wires so you don't have enough. I'll probably just leave it as a header for signals so people can use what they want, no point trying to limit it since it's not an all-in-one type board anyway.
lingwendil
Man who sold the world
Headers are very versatile, I'm happy with a header. The sky's the limit with custom harnesses
DC in via the solderless connectors that are on the BlueAcro gear would be sweet.
Boards are done [emoji2] tested all channels at full power using the wemos from my light and everything worked great! Down side is I don't really have any packing stuff at home so I'll probably have to wait till Monday to cut up some packing stuff...
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
