The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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hahnmeister, have you tried your Lowes. Mine has the test caps from 1" to 3" in the next aisle over from PVC fittings where they sell the PVC pipe itself. They are located in little boxes just under the area where they have the 1/2 sections of PVC pipe. Maybe we'll get lucky and all Lowes are laid out basically the same with respect to (wrt) to the plumbing section.

My HD just sells PVC knock-out caps and they are yellow (bleck).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6979614#post6979614 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
This is how the lower end Tunze works.


http://www.reeftank.com/html/turbellestream.html


According to Tunze:

"From a physics stand point it is very difficult to make a mag drive prop pump. The propeller of course pulls forward pulling the magnet out of place and stopping the pump. The solution is to use a centrifugal side brace brake mechanism as our pumps do. The brake shoes can be broken by a wavemaker because they do not get time to retract and for the pump to run properly, they are always in a state of working to correct the start up pressures. "

Sounds familiar? It functions kinda like our own "stopper" isn't it?

Notice the white section on the magnet just below the propeller? That's the brake pad. As the magnet spins the wrong way, it is pulled out by the force of the propeller then the brake pad catches on to stop it and the magnet gets sucked back in again. Just like how the Maxi-mod stopper works.

D.

Thanks for posting those pictures. It is clear to me now how it works.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6981980#post6981980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
oh, dhnguyen. some earlier models of the MJ streams did have a brake built into the prop. The airline shaft wasnt attached to the magnet, but rather had a screw type or spiral cut to the base so that if the magnet spun the wrong way, the prop never catched on the magnet and just got pushed up to the stopper. Then when the magnet went the right way, it would catch and spin as the prop retracted into place.


Hmmm... I would imagine that would weaken the ariline tubing quite a bit and would probably break after a time especially from the stress of the startup.

D.
 
i tried the spiral cut thing and it doesnt work, the impact force of the magnet on it broke it first try. darn, now its the weekend, have all my props, and no real motor to spin them, to the fish store i go i guess.

also why are we making these things sooooo long, the housing that is . look at the tunze, they dont space the prop off the motor 2 inches, the prop is right on the motor, i think its time to make these thing shorter and see how they perform.

TIm
 
I don't make mine long Tim. I noticed during my testings that it didn't really matter that much at all how long the shroud is as the flow was pretty the same all around. The propeller on mine is attached to the rigid tube which is only about 1.25" in length.

D.
 
Heres my first try at one, I used the dumas prop, but have some octura coming to try out, I used the black plastic tube from home depot, it is a little bigger I.D. then the sch 80 so I replaced the o ring on the pump with a thicker one, works good now. I made it real short and it put out a super wide flow pattern.

84998Picture_038.jpg



84998Picture_039.jpg
 
im sure it is mentioned somewhere but where do you get that "Y" deal to center the rod ?

btw what is considered the easiest way to make sure the bar is centered ?
 
Hey dhnguyen,

As a follow on to this post could you add the 1.25" Dumas (single and dual), 1.25" nitro (single and dual), and the 1.75" Dumas (single only!) to the flow ranking of octura props? This will should bring the information gained so far together nicely.
 
where do you get that "Y" deal to center the rod ?

I just took a piece of ABS and cut it out on the band saw, if it works out I may just have the guy at work cut a bunch for me on the router.
 
Does anyone find that these pumps are louder than the stock version?
Mine seems buzzier than stock regardless of how well I center the crossbrace.
 
There will always be some humming because of the propeller but if you did it right, the noise shouldn't be anything unbearable.

What are you using as the housing for the mod? If you're using a SCH40 PVC pipe then the ID is a bit too big for the MJ and will cause the thing to shift and be off centered hence the noise.

I use 1.5" SCH80 pipe which has an ID that is a perfect fit of the MJ.



D.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6987539#post6987539 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
BTW, are the test caps I am looking for for SCH40 or 80 PVC?

You'll want the test caps for SCH40 PVC
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6985103#post6985103 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
Hey dhnguyen,

As a follow on to this post could you add the 1.25" Dumas (single and dual), 1.25" nitro (single and dual), and the 1.75" Dumas (single only!) to the flow ranking of octura props? This will should bring the information gained so far together nicely.


Well I didn't include the 1.25" Dumas nor the Nitro Hammer because well... I'm not using them anymore. Unless I was doing the mod for a much smaller tank that would require less flow.

But that said basically from least to most in terms of flow:

1. Single 1.25" Dumas
2. Dual 1.25" Dumas or single 1.25" Nitro Hammer
3. Dual 1.25" Nitro Hammer
4. Single 1435 Octura
5. Dual 1435 or single 2035
6. Single 2035
7. Single 1240
8. Siingle 1440
9. Single 1.75" Dumas
 
Great. It wasn't obvious from the earlier post that the most flow possible still comes from the good old 1.75" Dumas.

So the most flow available that will fit in 1.5" sch 40 pvc is a 2035? I'm trying to find the right prop to slap on my MJ900 and provide perfect flow for my 55. I'm wondering if perhaps the 2035 is the ticket.
 
I just completely finished the mod for my MJ1200 with the 1.75" dumas (kept getting distracted with other projects so it took me a while). However, sometime during the two-to-three weeks that I was "building" the housing, i seemed to have lost one of the little black rubber things that go on the end of the shaft (and the hard plastic red thing that goes in it... they were together). So, does anyone know anything that I could use as a substitute that isn't permanent like glue? I'llkeep looking for the piece, but i doubt I'll find it in the vast pile of pieces from other projects.
 
Most people opt to not use them. My carbon fiber rod just barely pokes out through the 3/32" hole in the acrylic cross brace.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6979614#post6979614 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
Some photos of the Tunze

IMG_6037.jpg

IMG_6038.jpg

Dumb question: do the Tunzes even use a shaft at all?
 
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