The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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Roland,

That remains to be seen. In theory I'd say potentially yes, but I know nothing of the details of how its built.

Rio is claiming no.
 
i no someone who had a speed controller on a external Quiet one pump never new how that worked. been meaning to look for him and find out how he did that.
 
Hi all

Sorry I am on a mad one trying to split myself in to as many of me as possible trying to implement everything for the new Tank & have just had no time to post.

I will post up the 3 propeller maker name, as I have not had a chance to look yet.

& I think the fixed shaft pumps are quieter as there is

A. -.- Less play in both 1. the shaft & 2. the mag & housing

B. -.- The prop (as long as centered/balanced) will automatically center it's self

Hahnmiester - re -

For the 802, Frunkster...have you managed to use a stopper or anything to keep the prop spinning in the right direction?

Yes, it seems to work like this

The fixed shaft IE the 802's need to have the stopper within a few 2-4mm of the propeller

The floating shaft ie the Maxie's need to have the stopper further away say 1" or so to work every time IME so far

See my gallery for the stopper & loads of pic's of the mod's, been to see a man with a lathe milling machine & flat CNC who is going to help as a free joint DIY project:)

I will try to keep up, but I'm snowed under at the mo, tomorrow I have to travel to a tank shut down for kit (200mile round trip & divert off another 30 miles on the way back to source SS shafts from a SS firm) as I can't get them anywhere locally, so keeping on it ;)

PROP MAKERS __________________----------------____________

1. Groutner-- (the best IME so far, red props with a less agressive pitch) [D-Germany]

2. Robbe D [D-Germany]

3. Radio Active [UK- United Kingdom]

HTH

I will post more soon as I get the time peep's;)
 
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Aquaclear 402 flow

Aquaclear 402 flow

OK guys, this is a few pics I snapped of the 402. To give you an idea of the power, the pump is mounted in the back of a 32 inch deep tank. It is about 7 to 8 inches below surface and is pulling a vortex! I only have the great planes 1.5 inch on it. I can't even imagine what the dumas 1.75 or bigger would do, but I will find out! Ha! The third pic is to give you an idea how far back the pump is and still sending ripples out to all sides of the tank, top and bottom! The pump still wants to start in the wrong direction most times, but the stop helps to correct it after a couple of tries. I will just leave them running without a wave maker anyway!
Mike
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7132989#post7132989 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Timbo
Powerheads are not induction motors. They are usually referred to as AC synchronous motors. There is a permanent magnet on the rotor of the motor in a powerhead. Induction motors have "squirrel cage" style rotors which is how they get the name INDUCTION motors. Current from the stator induces current in the squirrel cage which generates a magnetic field that is constantly chasing the magnetic field generated by the switching current in the stator.

They are not speed controllable in the way that an induction motor is unless you change the frequency of the power source, which is what is being done inside the new Seio controller. Changing the frequency of an AC source is extremely expensive and inefficient, usually resulting in more power being consumed to change the frequency then you're losing by slowing the speed! Ironic huh.

So the powerheads can't really have a determined starting direction then can they? From what I've read on the web they typically go in the direction they're started in.

Tyler
 
Re: Aquaclear 402 flow

Re: Aquaclear 402 flow

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7134889#post7134889 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smjtkj
OK guys, this is a few pics I snapped of the 402. To give you an idea of the power, the pump is mounted in the back of a 32 inch deep tank. It is about 7 to 8 inches below surface and is pulling a vortex! I only have the great planes 1.5 inch on it. I can't even imagine what the dumas 1.75 or bigger would do, but I will find out! Ha! The third pic is to give you an idea how far back the pump is and still sending ripples out to all sides of the tank, top and bottom! The pump still wants to start in the wrong direction most times, but the stop helps to correct it after a couple of tries. I will just leave them running without a wave maker anyway!
Mike
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Awesome! So that's an aquaclear 402? Could you take pic of the stop you implemented to make it go the right direction?

Later,
Tyler
 
Re: 402 stop

Re: 402 stop

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7135166#post7135166 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smjtkj
Here is a couple of pics of stop. It is just a piece of carbon fiber tubing.
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Perfect! Thanks!

How far is the prop allowed to travel before hitting the stop?
I was going to try this mod with a maxijet but seeing that the aquaclears don't require a cross brace and all that I'd like to try an aquaclear.

Did you end up using the RH or LH prop?

Thanks,
Tyler
 
My gosh, and thats a pretty small prop considering...I cant imagine with a larger prop... smjtkj, can you post how you attached the shroud to the pump? I havent gotten my hands on a 402/802 yet, but I would like to know what to expect to need/how its done.

AC motors can be 2 pole (alternating attraction/repulsion between 2 ends) and 4 pole (yada yada yada, you get it). A cheaper 2 pole has no direction control, unless a manual clutch or brake is used as we are here. A 4 pole motor however, switches not only from back and forth, but in a rotation...so this rotation can be regulated.

FWIW, SEIOs are 4-pole because they must spin the same direction every time (their hybrid prop-impeller is spiraled in one direction). This is what will allow their eventual use on the wavemaker they are coming out with w/o the pump having to be DC. This might work on other pumps, but the danger is that as you get lower and lower on power...it becomes easier and easier for the pump to change direction. With a 4-pole, it will continue to slow until it stops.

As for why the fixed shaft is quieter and easier, etc...well, it eliminates the need to center the shaft like with the MJ mods. the prop doesnt even need to be drilled, and if there is play on the shroud...who cares. While it is possible for the MJ to be just as good, the chance that it wont be perfectly centered is greater. I dont have a problem with noise with either so far (except for startup), but I do notice that the vibrations from the Mj are much greater than the AC.

Long live the AC mod!!! I was going to scratch some pics of the 901 in action in the next few days. A LFS with a 10,000g shark tank said it would be okay for me to use the tank to test the prop. Thats great, because I could use the space...the 901 throws a good 6'+ long cone of water!
 
I had the left hand props so I used them. The stop is probably like 1/4 inch from the prop. I was considering getting some right hand props to try, but I can't seem to find any larger rh that have a large enough area to drill for the 3/16 tubing. The graupners are only 4mm and don'y look to have enough leff around the hole to drill. So I think I am just going to go with the 1.75 Dumas if I don't make progress on the search.
Mike
 
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Hahn I just cut the nozzle deal off and glued a 2 inch to cut down 1.5 reducer and then glued that to a 2 inch coupling. Wow that is a run on sentence. Here is what it looks like.
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Just a note to anyone who might be tinkering w/ the idea of creating a HUGE mod: maybe try a stainless steel prop? I think that if exposed to higher flow, SS doesn't corrode nearly as quickly as when crammed in a tight area - ie a screw hole or impeller shaft.

The choices go up a lot with SS, though its expensive. Prather makes one that is 3.1" and a pitch of 4.5" (I'm not sure how to convert that pitch to a standard, it seems out of the oridinary.)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDS09&P=0

EDIT: I think you just divide the pitch (in inches) by the diameter of the prop, so that one above is like 1.45.
 
man you like zipties almost as much as i like my superglue ( looking at fingers covered in it :D ). mod looks good.

i tried something last night to see if it would quite the MJ down. I glued the shaft in place in the MJ. took out the shaft and filled the hole that i goes in with a little gel. pushed the shaft back in, with the red bushing thing and the rubber around it. then i used the original impeller cover to align the shaft while the glue dries. then assm. as normal with the prop assm. work great and made a lot less noise

Tim
 
i am using some 3/32 316L stainless for the shaft. i didnt like the CF because i found it to wear out the rigid airline in a few days from a slight wobble. the 316L is very nice. much quiter with the stainless and it also being glued.

Tim
 
Is the shaft the same lenghth as the original?If it's longer,how did you use the original impeller cover to align it?
 
iff you look at the original impeller cover you can see that it has a hole right in the center of the thing, to allow water to squirt out when you assm. the unit with the red bushing thing ,in its stock form. i just used this hole to align the SS shaft that i cut to be the length that i needed for my mod.

Tim
 
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