the ICH word

[Critter]

On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 lowest 10 highest) what would you rate a fresh water dip in responce to Ich. Also, how aggresivly would you try and capture your fish to dip them and for how long? What I'm looking at here is a moderate case of ICH. I've heard people sware by a FW dip. What I don't want to do is add any extra stress by trying to hunt them down and capture them unless the FW dip is so wonderful that it outweighs the risks. Do you know what I mean? hehe. Thanks

Chris

 

[spoon25]

Dipping will not help as the ich is already in the tank from not QTing your fish before putting them in the main tank. Once it is in a tank with fish it will be there period. You must remove all the fish from the tank and let it be fallow for at least 4-6 weeks while doing hyposalinity on the fishes in QT for the same period of time. Please see here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=774458&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...25&pagenumber=1

 

[JonK]

I had Ich in my reef once and I just let the fish fight it off. I figured the stress of removal and everything else involved would only cause the fish to get worse. In the end the fish was able to fight the infection by itself.

 

[Critter]

Thanks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6908915#post6908915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spoon25
Dipping will not help as the ich is already in the tank from not QTing your fish before putting them in the main tank. Once it is in a tank with fish it will be there period. You must remove all the fish from the tank and let it be fallow for at least 4-6 weeks while doing hyposalinity on the fishes in QT for the same period of time. Please see here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=774458&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...25&pagenumber=1

 

[Critter]

Hey Spoon25, I have a 30g... would that work for two clowns at 2 and 3 inches and a y tang at 4 inches for the 4 to 6 weeks? I have everything I need other then the space to set it up lol.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6908915#post6908915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spoon25
Dipping will not help as the ich is already in the tank from not QTing your fish before putting them in the main tank. Once it is in a tank with fish it will be there period. You must remove all the fish from the tank and let it be fallow for at least 4-6 weeks while doing hyposalinity on the fishes in QT for the same period of time. Please see here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=774458&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...25&pagenumber=1

 

[spoon25]

yes you should have no problem, my 29 gallons hosted alot more than that and everything got along very well, everything thrived....just as long as the clowns are paired up....you should be in great shape...mine was setup for a year befoore i ouotgrew the tank and needed to get this 75....personally i shoould have just kept the 29 going...it was sweet...but i am thinking my live rock the amount i had really helped with the fish having hiding spots....about 130lbs live rock...it was amazing..

 

[Critter]

Question... In setting up this tank I plan on using water from the main .. but the sponge media for the filter is going to be new... I will put the filter in my sump... how long would you think before the filter media becomes bio active?

 

[spoon25]

you should start asking your questions in reefnest, you will get more responces....the people in ncpars fight about politics too much....heres the link...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=386
reefnest


and as far as your question, i can tell you from experience that it should take a good 48 hrs before that filter becomes a magnet for microscopics...but i have a refugium that helps speed this process...the longer the better...what type of filtration is this for and what size tank...my sponges get clogged with bugs within 2 days..they dont do anything i just threw them in the sump and left them go they dont clog detritus and debris which is what you want so you dont get ammonia and nitrate spikes... but like i said about 2 days theres bio all over it

 

[spoon25]

heres an idea that helps alot use the old filters and add the new one in front of the the old this way all the bio acftive organism from the carbon attach to the new sponge...they say let it go a few days before removing the old filter this way you dont have a crash of bio media... do this tank have live rock and live sand? b/c thats the more natural bezst looking way to have bio media....i think people who use undergravel filters and hang on type fitration filters dont have live rock...but my first tank exploded with growth when i used both LR LS and hang on filter...it just kept getting clogged and water would go all over so i removed it completely

 

[Critter]

naw, this is just the filter for the Q-Tank. I'll put the outside filter on my sump for a couple of days then move it to the Q-Tank where I'll be doing a hypo for the Ich. Just needed to know how long before the sponge became active and you answered that ... thanks. (also, I will throw another sponge in the sump so it will be ready to go when its time to switch the one from the filter out.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6924518#post6924518 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spoon25
heres an idea that helps alot use the old filters and add the new one in front of the the old this way all the bio acftive organism from the carbon attach to the new sponge...they say let it go a few days before removing the old filter this way you dont have a crash of bio media... do this tank have live rock and live sand? b/c thats the more natural bezst looking way to have bio media....i think people who use undergravel filters and hang on type fitration filters dont have live rock...but my first tank exploded with growth when i used both LR LS and hang on filter...it just kept getting clogged and water would go all over so i removed it completely

 

[spoon25]

well keep using the same sponges over and over..hate to see you at the pet store every 3 weeks...lol also about the hypo thing....i personally have tyalked to alot of people abou that. and asked alot of questions...thats sounds like a very good way consideriing what people say in the forums about hypo drips...but if you already have the qt tank done and ready then thats cool, but if it were me, i would save lots of time and money just by taking your fish and dropping it in 76 degree plain RO water untill the fish is almost ready to go belly up, just when you think its about dead pull it out and throw him in the tank, try it first on a cheap fish, it works just as good and the ich just falls off like dust on a wall when you wipe it

 

[Critter]

3 sponge blocks 5 bucks. I have everthing else including the time. The hypo would be for quite a bit longer then a drip... it would be for about 4 to 6 weeks.

As for the FW dip... I have that setup as well, ph and temp matched. Problem is getting them out of the main tank into the bucket for the dip I don't want to stress them out more if you know what I mean... I tried to get one of my clowns out, and they wanted nothing to do with it... So I figured they are eating and acting pretty normal other then the spots. So for now they get to fight it off.. feeding formula 1 pellet with garlic... but I want all options ready so that if things start to turn for the worse, they come out. And if nothing else, I have a Q tank ready for future purchases.

(addition) got pulled away at work lol but now re-reading this I do have a Q about the FW dip... can you do multiple fish in the same water.. cause matching PH is kind of a pain to have to do it for each fish for each dip..

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6925071#post6925071 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spoon25
well keep using the same sponges over and over..hate to see you at the pet store every 3 weeks...lol also about the hypo thing....i personally have tyalked to alot of people abou that. and asked alot of questions...thats sounds like a very good way consideriing what people say in the forums about hypo drips...but if you already have the qt tank done and ready then thats cool, but if it were me, i would save lots of time and money just by taking your fish and dropping it in 76 degree plain RO water untill the fish is almost ready to go belly up, just when you think its about dead pull it out and throw him in the tank, try it first on a cheap fish, it works just as good and the ich just falls off like dust on a wall when you wipe it

 

[spoon25]

i noticed you have ph matched...thats the problem with ich...it wont fall off if ph matches your salinity...it should be 7.2 or something straight ro water is 7.2 i think or 7.0 something like that, so dont worry about ph...and you said your clowns have ich...hmmm, your tank must be madly loaded with it cuz its my undertsanding clowns dont usually get ich due to there skin type...they swim with anenomes so whats that tell ya..maybe there stressed what fish has ich...? does your tang, they get it so much quicker and easier than clowns

 

[Critter]

There were multiple factors which I didn't see come together to cause the outbrake.. (lets just say that a recent trip for fish brought home more then I bargend for and let me also add that there is a reason why you don't see some fish at your local pet store) 1 of the 2 clowns got it, but he was not in the anemone as much as the other... which by the way seems pretty awsome, if they use the anemone to kill off the ich (just guessing on that one). But as you put it about the clowns skin, I never read anything about clowns being more resistant to ich then other fish, in fact, when I was researching the ich and treatments, the fish in the picture to identify the ich were clown fish.
The tang has it but mildly, been feading him supplements of nori soaked in garlic juice and he has been hanging out with the cleaner shrimp alot lately and hes looking pretty good now. Actualy at this point on a scale of 1 to 10, I would say the ich in my tank is about a 1. Also for your reference I pulled the info from Steven Pro's doc on ich and the methods of removing etc. this pertains to the PH.

"To prepare a proper freshwater dip, take either dechlorinated tap water or demineralized water (RO or DI), aerate for an hour to maximize dissolved oxygen, heat to match the temperature of the dip water to that of the tank water, and then add buffering compounds to match the freshwater pH to your saltwater pH. The aeration should continue throughout the dip. It is crucial to match temperature and pH and to maximize dissolved oxygen. Most people that experience problems with freshwater dipping have made an error in these critical parameters."

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6933800#post6933800 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spoon25
i noticed you have ph matched...thats the problem with ich...it wont fall off if ph matches your salinity...it should be 7.2 or something straight ro water is 7.2 i think or 7.0 something like that, so dont worry about ph...and you said your clowns have ich...hmmm, your tank must be madly loaded with it cuz its my undertsanding clowns dont usually get ich due to there skin type...they swim with anenomes so whats that tell ya..maybe there stressed what fish has ich...? does your tang, they get it so much quicker and easier than clowns