The Reactor Projects (graphic Intensive)

[TAMU Reef]

Calling all experts in working with acrylic, I am about to embark on a journey to make my own Kalk and Calcium Reactors. I have reviewed several really good designs on this website and you all have convinced me to do my own. I will need all your help on the way because I am new at working with acrlyic, but have a desire to do it due to the cost of buying these reactors at an inflated price!

I have decided to do a tube design on this one similar to these projects. I will concentrate on the Kalk Reactor first because it is the simplest and does not require too much fabrication.

My design will be using a 6" OD acrylic tube and the only major hurdle is to cutting the flanges. :eek1: I bought a dremel attachment to cut circles larger than 6" online and that is the first step in the process. I will post more pictures as they come.

TAMU Reef

 

[TAMU Reef]

OK snag #1:
My dremel wasn't made to fit into the circle cutter so I had to improvise. I had to attempt and screw it securely onto the circle cutter. When I did so it made a REAL rough cut due to the fact that the dremel bounces too much while cutting. So it appears like I need a circle cutter for a drill press after all. GRRR.

 

[TroyPierce]

FTIW, Tap Plastics (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=140&) sells precut disks pretty cheap. Check out this web page, they have 8 inch diameter, 1/4 inch disks for $5.35 and go up to 12 inch diameter for $10.25.

I'm thinking along the same line as you and found these to make my life easier.

Looks like all they have is clear but that's okay with me. You too from the looks of your picture.

 

[TroyPierce]

OK snag #1:
snip . . . So it appears like I need a circle cutter for a drill press after all. GRRR.

What kind of bit are you using in the Dremmel? If it's a strait cutting router bit, you might have better luck if you switch to a spiral cutting bit. The strait cutters are good for cleaning the edge.

MLCS has some 1/8 inch solid carbid ones for about $11.00. Check it out here:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...arthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#mini_upcut_anchor

 

[chinaman4u]

I have some 6" and 7 3/4" clear 1/4" acrylic circles for sale, $2 ea. I think they would be perfect for your project. pm me if you r interested.

 

[TAMU Reef]

chinaman4u,
Thanks for the offer, I might have to keep you in mind if I run into too much more trouble.

TroyPierce,
Thanks for the info, I had no idea tap plastics did that...


I did find a quick way using my router table to cut an exact 8" Flange with the ID of the 6" tube. It is kind of neat, I drilled a 3/16" hole in my router table to cut a 4" radius in acrylic. I then cut a hole in the center of my square actrylic. Stuck a bolt throught the acrylic and the router table. The router then cut the acrylic and I spun that square acrylic like a record player to cut the circle. It works great for flanges, but I have a hole in the acrylic in the end is the only downfall.

I ordered the circle cutter online also to cut the bottom of the kalk reactor. I guess I am into obtaining tools for now rather than ordering the circles pre-made ???? But had I known.... Thanks for the tips.

TAMUReef

 

[TAMU Reef]

HERE IS A PICTURE OF WHAT I DID TO CUT THE CIRCLE FLANGES.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/53300ROUTER_CUT.jpg

What do you think?

TAMU Reef

 

[TroyPierce]

HERE IS A PICTURE OF WHAT I DID TO CUT THE CIRCLE FLANGES.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/53300ROUTER_CUT.jpg

What do you think?

TAMU Reef

Looks great. If your router table has a groove for a sliding T-square, you might want to make a great little jig.

1) Get or make a piece of wood that'll fit into the groove.
2) Draw a line down the center of a 12" x 12" x 3/4" piece of plywood.
3) Glue and screw the plywood to the strip so that one edge of the ply just touches your router bit at the line.
4) Drill your hole in the plywood, along the line for whatever radius you want.

One advantage to this is, you can lower your router bit so that it only sticks up about 1/8th inch. Use a round nose bit and you can route out a groove for an o-ring.

You could also drill two holes in your router table top and hold the plywood in place with screws through them instead of using the stip of wood in step 1 above.

Drill as many holes in the plywood as you need and save the surface of your router table.

 

[TAMU Reef]

You wouldn't have a picture or a drawing of this would you?

TAMU Reef

 

[TAMU Reef]

Thanks for that tip TroyPierce, I found some examples of jigs on the internet and will make one for my router table.

TAMU Reef

 

[TroyPierce]

Thanks for that tip TroyPierce, I found some examples of jigs on the internet and will make one for my router table.

TAMU Reef

Great. I was looking for a photo or drawing. The Jig I have is for a Band Saw but it's the same principle. If you end up with any photos or drawings, others may be interested as well.

 

[jims47]

What kind of bit are you using in the Dremmel? If it's a strait cutting router bit, you might have better luck if you switch to a spiral cutting bit. The strait cutters are good for cleaning the edge.

MLCS has some 1/8 inch solid carbid ones for about $11.00. Check it out here:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...arthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#mini_upcut_anchor

Those will not fit a Dremmel. The cutting dia. is 1/8th but the shank size is 1/4" No Dremmel I know of takes i/4" shank bits. Having said that. I use these types in my wood shop and tried them on acrylic(not MLCS brand) and they are excellent . I use the compression cut, they are up and down cut combined. I don't use the jointer anymore, I just set these up in my router table and adjust the fence, ready to glue joints...smooth.

 

[TroyPierce]

Those will not fit a Dremmel. The cutting dia. is 1/8th but the shank size is 1/4" SNIP . . .

Scroll down a little to "Mini Upcut Spiral Bits". They have 1/8th inch shafts.

 

[CaptainDave]

thanks for documenting all of this TAMU. I'm getting ready to build a kalk reactor just like the one you showed.

One request: when you get to plumbing in the circulation pump, could you post some pics and explain exactly how you did it and what parts you used?

I'd like to know if there are special considerations when putting bulkheads in the side of a round tube.

Looks great, keep the pics coming!

~Dave

 

[TAMU Reef]

Ok guys, I finally got a drill press circle cutter in the mail.

I hope to get started on working with the Kalk Reactor flanges this weekend.

Any tips for working with this circle cutter? I was curious if the drill bit in the center of the cutter drills all the way through the acrylic?

Thanks,
TAMU Reef

 

[TroyPierce]

Yes, the center bit goes all the way through the work piece.

I hope you have a drill press to use with this. Using one of these circle cutters can be dangerous no matter what but in a hand held drill is extremely dangerous.

I'd also recommend setting the drill press speed to the slowest possible.

Good luck and be safe.

 

[kakan]

I have the same cutter I have my drill press set a 500RPM the cutter works great but it takes a while on 1/4 acrylic. Make sure you use plenty of water for lubricant

 

[TAMU Reef]

So if I am using a circle for the base of the reactors, what are you guys using to plug up the whole left in the middle of the bottom flange?

TAMU Reef

 

[TroyPierce]

I've used the same cutter on wood projects to cut a disk without a center hole. What I did was glue the piece to a backer (a scrap of plywood) with hot melt glue. Then, clamp the piece to your drill press and go very slowly.

After cutting through, pry the piece off the backer and peal the glue off.

I've not done this with Acrylic so I can't say if the hot melt glue will stick to it at all but you can try.

Personally, I'd buy pre-cut circles for the part you don't want a hole in and DIY the ones that do have a hole.

 

[gbtower]

If you're making a flange set, cut out the first circle with the method you gave above (or whatever method you want). Double face tape that circle to the next piece and just use a flush trim bit to cut the next circle. Exact match and no hole. Or, if you're just capping the end of a tube, weld the sheet to the tube first and then flush trim it.