stunreefer
Reef Hugger
Well I'm usually full of links, unfortunately I don't have anything good regarding QTing... but here is a great thread regarding nasty flukes: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1260067 Unfortunately all to common on all fish, especially angels (I say that becsause I've experienced them the most on angels - by far my favortie fish
)My QT is a 50 gal breeder, with an AquaClear HOB filter, heater, and a bunch of PVC to hide in. This is my "treatment" QT tank, where I treat incoming fish with Prazi, Copper and/or anything else necessary. I'll say that all angels should be treated with Prazi as they come in, along with Copper (there are a couple species known to not handle copper well, IME the multibarred angel is not one of them).
I also have a 40 gal breeder "settling QT tank," which is the same set up as above, but it has sand, LR and a light to grow algae. The sole reason for this tank is for a fish like the multibarred angelfish... many times they'll go around and just pick at the rock, walls and substrate for long periods (sometimes months) before taking prepared foods, so all the algae and sponge gives them something to feed on. These tanks should not be treated with any type of medication, but it allows you to introduce them into a stress free environment and monitor them closely.
To save yourself the headache of setting up both, you could just do the first one for treatment, and have rocks (with algae on it) on hand to offer the fish after copper treatments. I would not add this rock back into your reef - ever. For this purpose I've made "deals" with LFSs before where I'd take an algae laden rock home with me, offer it to the fish, bring it back and return to their FOWLR systems.
The biggest killer in QT tanks is Ammonia. Main reason is many of the medications we use kill off beneficial bacteria that we grow in the filter along with the fact that there is no LR and there is no LS. Another factor many people don't think about is you can set up a QT tank, cycle it and ensure your biological filtration has matured some, yet there is no bio-load on the tank/filter without animals... then we bring home a bunch of fish and toss 'em into QT instantly overloading the system. This is why many times you'll hear/read to QT one fish at a time. In your situation you should be fine attempting QTing a pair simutaneously. I've QT'd schools of anthias before without issues... I fed the tank for a about a week prior to their addition to "bulk up" the beneficial bacteria. Whenever I set up a QT I use water from my DT. During QT I change water daily for the most part (especially during treatments), and I change 75-100% of it. I always use water from my DT for the water change and discard the water from the QT. By always using your DT water you're (ideally) keeping parameters pretty darn close, so just before introducing into your DT, you can do a large water change on the QT and instantly move the fish from QT into your DT ensuring the fish has little stress during the transfer. These large water changes keep Ammonia and Nitrite at bay... the best filter on a QT tank is yourself
As a side note, I always run one of these "Seachem Ammonia Alert" to monitor Ammonia levels at a quick glance. They work great and will last about a year submerged, they've saved my ace and fish more than once :http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...D&Product_Code=SEA-010&Category_Code=SeachemT I you're willing and ready (which I have a feeling you are
), go for it man!BTW, those renderings are rediculous... upon first glance I thought you had taken delivery on your tank already! :lol: This is going to be an awesome system :thumbsup:
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But I was thinking about selling all my current fish went they will be cure and that I'm 100% sure they are flukes free. 
I don't think I will by Heniocus Diphreutes since they are rarer (it's a word ?) than intermedius here in montreal ... 
