Time to build a NEW SKIMMER

R

Reef_bones

New member
Alright its time to build a new skimmer for the 75g reef. the airstone skimmer is working just fine but I have a feeling the Wife wants to get into more SPS. The last few times we have been coral gazing its "OH hunny I like this and that" all SPS of course. So I feel I need to skim more efficiently. I want to build a Recirc type external. Size isn't really an issue so suggestions on that will help.

Here is what I already have...

3ft 6" PVC

6"-4" PVC reducer cone

4"-2" PVC reducer cone

Mag 7

Mag 3 (feed pump)

and various 1/2" and 3/4" plumbing supplies.


I would like to use the MAG 7 for the recirc pump, so obviously I need a way to mod it with a needle wheel.

Questions I have:
How big should the Skimmer be?

How long should the 2" width neck be? Would 3" width be better?

Would it be OK to thread the PVC or get the little rubber slip seals?


Any help would be great. I know the basics of how they work but not sure how to gauge what size would be best.
 
Personally I'd go with the OTP pump. Depending on how big you build it would better determine which pump to use. From what I've heard, they don't come with a venturi. I found the OTP pumps here: http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/subsubcategorypage.asp?subcatindexid=ps-ac-pm

http://www.aquacave.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=447

If you make a big skimmer you should be able to use the OTP3000 ... maybe even the OTP5000

OTP2000 - approx 500 gph
OTP3000 - approx 750 gph
OTP5000 - approx 1,250 gph

You could modify the Mag pump.

The only thing that concerns me is using the 4" neck. I would be tempted to go with either 3" or 3-1/2". This can be done many different ways. If you do use the 6" - 4" reducer coupling, you could then adapt down to 3" or 3-1/3". A 6" reaction chamber and a 4" neck just sounds too big.

Personally I used this drain fitting because it was cheap:
http://randystacye.com/diy_needle_wheel_skimmer.htm
floordrain02.JPG

The only problem with this drain fitting is that it is ready to accept 2" pipe for a neck. I used a 2" neck on mine, but mine was shorter. You could modify this drain fitting by chopping the top off flat using a miter saw or something like that and just glue on a Union.

Some heat shape acrylic to make a cone.

You could go with a 'flat top' using acrylic or something.
 
I will see if I can find a drain like that @ home depot. That looks simplier than my thought of using the 4-6 and 4-3or2 reducers...

As far as the pump. I have a venturi. I forgot to mention that part.. Can I mesh wheel mod a mag 7. I hate to buy another pump when I have 2 laying in the garage just needing work...Plus its alot easier to use the mag 7 than to explain to the finacial advisor (wife) the purpose of another pump when she knows those 2 are sitting... ;)

I plan to use a piece of 1/4 acrylic 7x12 as the bottom base instead of a cap. I will make a rubber gasket and drill screw holes for the screws to go through the plate and into the PVC. I figure a screw every 1.5" would secure it. But would the 1/8" rubber gasket work better than a silicine bead?.
 
Thanks for the info Randy.

I have the Skimmer body figured out.. Well most of it but the link you gave to the DIY helps with the rest. I still have to figure out the best places for the intake and exit along with the pump inlet and outlet. I got elbows to thread onto the inside to direct the flow into the cylinder.

Now what would be the best way to mod the mag 7. If it doesn't pull its weight I will ditch it for a needle wheel pump. For now though I would like to make the mag chop bubbles. So what has been done and works. I have searched for Mag mods and come up empty. You think I should just put some mesh to it and see what happens. I didn't get a picture of the venturi yet. It's in a box of old parts in the garage. I will dig it out tomorrow and mod it to fit.

Here are the pictures of what I have so far.

The body is 25.5" from the floor to the beginning of the neck. How long should I make the neck?




Pictures540.jpg


Pictures552.jpg


here is a picture of the bottom:
I have a choice here of going with silicone (scaring the acrylic for a good bond) or I have access to rolls of rubber. I can get a piece big enough to cut a gasket but what thickness. I can get 1/16" all the way up to 3/8".. Which way would be best. I like the idea of being able to remove the bottom for cleaning once in a while.

Pictures555.jpg
 
Cont.....


I found the DRAIN Randy used at Home depot for like 6 bucks..It is perfect for 6" pipe.

Randy did you cut out the part the screws screw into? I might grind that our with the dremel unless there is no need..

Pictures557.jpg


and like I said before I am still not sure about the neck height..lol


Here are the threaded fittings and the tap I will use to make it a perfect fit.. :)

Pictures544.jpg


I have a few unions and ball vales laying around I can use on the neck below the cup and the pump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9405273#post9405273 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BruiseAndy
Is that secured with 1/4" metal zip screws?
Click to expand...

Maybe . they are 3/4" long...Is that bad? I have another body if I need to go a different route. I drilled the holes small enough they had to cut through.
 
I see what your saying. I will have to I bet I can get one of those flanges from work. If they don't have it they will order it. What thickness of rubber. 3/16??

I can test it the way I have it now. The flange is a better option though for the long haul so it will be apart of final assembly.
 
how do you get a -1...lol

Is about an 1" from the bottom a good place for the return to pull from?

What height should I place the inlet?

How high from the bottom should the pump intake be?
 
The return to tank output should be as low as possible (1" should be fine). The input from tank should be High on the body, but not so high that it disrupts the bubble head right below the neck. I would place it about 2/3 the way up.

The recirc pump configuration is debateable. Some place the output higher than the input and others do it vise versa. The advantage of placing the intake to the pump higher is that it will be able to pull more air. Doing this will also suck in air bubbles that are traveling up to the top (which is fine). That is how I would do it (that is, output down low and intake about halfway up).

Also, while you're still deciding how to do it, you may want to make a bubble cup of some sort that will cut down on turbulance. But on a skimmer that tall, it shouldn't really be an issue.
 
Thanks.. that is what I was looking for.

I will try mounting the pump input about 1/3 of the way up and the output about 4" higher than the return to the tank...If the pump cavitates I can always flip it around..

Now for the next issue....

THE PUMP..

What is the best material to use for bubble chopping? Where do you get the mesh for the mesh wheels?
 
are you going to use the ball valves to control the input and output of the skimmer? do you know if ball valves work well for this or is a gate valve a necessity if you do not want an adjustable return height?
 
I plan to use a ball valve for now..

I have been running one on my current skimmer for almost 2 years with no issue. I put the ball valve right at the end of the return pointing into the sump and don't glue it. This way you can pop it off and clean it from time to time.

A Gate Valve is a better option but I will use what I have and if I run into an issue change it then.
 
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