To Switch Back To Sand?

Madoktopus

New member
Hi all, im currently running a 24x24x30 BB Primarily For Sps. my orginal plan was to have the return from my sump feed a spray bar which would push all detrius to the front of my tank. However this did not work as when it was turned off there was back siphoning. because the tank is so deep and it is is also on a 40 high stand, its really difficult to collect all the poop on the bottom.
i want to know- do you think i should put a small sand bed back in?
 
Have you had success with sand in the past?
If so, add it. If not, why do you think that will change?

IMO - I'd go for a deeper bed, or none at all. SSB, after time, needs `restarts' or major work [not all that substrate is where you can siphon it, esp as SPS grow].

Just my take.
 
What do you hope to accomplish by adding sand? Hide the deatris that is still going to collect back there?

Why don't you use a small PH like a Maxijet 1200 to run your spraybar?

HTH,
Whiskey
 
I would think about what MiddletonMark said--use it again if it works for you. A deeper sand bed may be a good way to go if you decide on that route. Some people, such as myself, have had good luck with shallower beds for extended periods, but I can't really say that it is the norm.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7357379#post7357379 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bogg
You could plumb in a check valve, that would stop the siphon.

Or a ball valve and turn it off when you turn your pump off.
 
I agree with the check valve comment. You set the tank up with the use of the spray bar in mind. Might as well use it.:)
 
or....

you can drill a small hole right under the water line on your pipe. It will break back siphon when waterlevel drops below hole.
 
oogie- that neber worked when i tried that

i had a SSB in the past and i got annoyed with it in the end because it kept getting blown up. but as i said i didnt really think through this tank, i was just so eager to get it-and the height has become a problem (cant siphon the bottom easily). I will try the powerhead+spraybar combo and let you all know how it goes. Hope to post pics of tank next week. thanks madok.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7358647#post7358647 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jsweir
Do not use a ball valve! The first power outage without you home = disaster!

Ball valve stays open all the time. The only time it is closed is when he shuts off his pumps to siphon out detritus. When the pump is turned on again, the ball valve has to be opened to permit flow. No worries about a flood.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7359568#post7359568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by masterswimmer
Ball valve stays open all the time. The only time it is closed is when he shuts off his pumps to siphon out detritus. When the pump is turned on again, the ball valve has to be opened to permit flow. No worries about a flood.



What about when he isn't home to close the ball valve, and the power goes out? It would back siphon the entire tank into the sump...

I wouldn't trust a check valve either, but that is just my opinion
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7359568#post7359568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by masterswimmer
Ball valve stays open all the time. The only time it is closed is when he shuts off his pumps to siphon out detritus. When the pump is turned on again, the ball valve has to be opened to permit flow. No worries about a flood.

But if power goes out the whole tank will back syphon into the sump (onto the floor).

Whiskey
 
you should be able to drill a anti siphon hole in the plumbing. i know you can because i have a a anti siphon hole in all of my return plumbing. i drilled bulkheads for the plumbing instead of going over the top so i had to come up with a method to controll the amount of water that drains back into the sump from the return outlets when the power goes off. works great.
Tim
 
you should be able to drill a anti siphon hole in the plumbing. i know you can because i have a a anti siphon hole in all of my return plumbing. i drilled bulkheads for the plumbing instead of going over the top so i had to come up with a method to controll the amount of water that drains back into the sump from the return outlets when the power goes off. works great.
Tim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7357672#post7357672 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oogie
or....

you can drill a small hole right under the water line on your pipe. It will break back siphon when waterlevel drops below hole.

That has worked for me for years and drilling a hole in PVC doesn't cost anything.
 
also never trust a check valve for stopping a back siphon, they always will fail sometime down the road.

Tim
 
Honestly, I think check valves failing is another one of those common myths in this hobby that has become accepeted as fact. Kind of like the myth that you need 400w metal halides if a tank is deeper than 30". Or the myth of the watts per gallon rule. I've used check valves for years and have yet to have one fail. I have buddies that have also used them for years and never had one fail. I've talked to people at public aquariums where they have used them for years and never had one fail. Now that I think of it, has anyone ever experienced their own check valve failing?

The only reason I could see for a check valve failing is neglect. Let it go for a few years and it is going to get buildup on it and obviously be prone to failure. Use true union check valves, clean them every year, and I doubt it will fail.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7357672#post7357672 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oogie
or....

you can drill a small hole right under the water line on your pipe. It will break back siphon when waterlevel drops below hole.

This will work as long as the plumbing is external. If he plumbed the spray bar with a bulkhead it wouldn't work. Assuming he plumbed it "over the top" then the siphon break is a good tool. But it is just like the check valve. It needs to be maintained. If you let algae build up around the holes it will clog them and not break the siphon when the pump is turned off. Siphon break holes should be cleaned every few months depending on algae build up.

Once again assuming the plumbing is "over the top", I think the most redundant thing to do would be to drill a couple siphon break holes and also use a check valve. But both need to be maintained regularly or there will be a chance of failure.
 
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