Torch frag receding

[ostro]

I bought a gold torch frag 2 days ago. It has not opened up since being introduced to the tank. There were a few strands that seemed to open a bit yesterday but a far cry from what it was in the tank at my LFS. Today it looks to be receding rapidly.

In general what are the causes for recession in lps/torch corals?

It's in a 5 gallon holding tank with 2 SPS and 1 hammer that have been there 2-3weeks. The hammer has been looking great, it split into 2 heads about 4 days after being added. The sps have both bleached completely.

ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are at or near zero, temp 75*, sg 1.025. There was a diatom bloom about 2 days after I added the sps/hammer as I used live rock I was curing in plastic bin.

for flow theres a HOB filter meant for 10-30gallon aquariums.

lightning is blackbox leds, was set to 40%blue and 30%white, ive since lowered it to 30blue/20white. Light hangs 14" off the surface.

What should I be focusing on; lights, flow, untested water parameters? (calc, mg, phosphate, etc) I use kent reef salt and have been doing water changes every 3 days so I do feel that calc and mg are fine.

 

[180+55reef]

What are your parameters?

 

[Dkuhlmann]

Why is it that everyone things when asked for parameters we're talking about ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Need to know the others as they are the most important with corals.

 

[180+55reef]

That and for the life of me I can't understand why people think water changes maintains parms

 

[rffanat1c]

Why is it that everyone things when asked for parameters we're talking about ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Need to know the others as they are the most important with corals.

Probably because that is bashed into everyone's head more than the others in this hobby, especially for newer folks.

And 180+55reef my tank has been running since August of 2014 and I've done nothing but water changes to maintain my parameters. Never dosed a thing and each time I've tested these parameters, they've fallen within acceptable ranges (except nitrates)

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

 

[180+55reef]

Ok but if you have a moderately stocked tank, the math doesn't work with just water changes...in most cases

 

[Dkuhlmann]

Now I see the problem. Those ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are mainly relating to the cycle of the tank. It seems that a good enough job isn't being done with the switch to taking care of corals.

What would you suggest be done with that.

 

[rffanat1c]

Probably a more detailed request of parameters. What are you Kh, Ca, and Mg levels?

 

[Dkuhlmann]

Yes, but they aren't necessary when cycling a tank. Besides newbies are getting their heads crammed so full of many things I doubt it would be remembered if they were told about them in the beginning. I don't know what a good answer is.

 

[Mark9]

That and for the life of me I can't understand why people think water changes maintains parms

Because they do?
I don't understand your statement.

 

[Dkuhlmann]

Ya, I'm also at a loss on that statement.

 

[180+55reef]

Well if your calc is 400 and you want to maintain 450,and your salt is 480, you would have to change most of your water to get it up to 450,

For example, I would guess most or some salts are not 480

 

[Mark9]

With a light coral load, or just softies, regular water changes can maintain parameters just fine.
Unless of course you've got so many corals or clams sucking up the calcium/alk that you'd need to do them too often.
That's when dosing or kalk becomes a requirement.

 

[180+55reef]

Ok, your ok with my example though?

 

[Mark9]

Ok, your ok with my example though?

I haven't agreed with anything you've said.

 

[180+55reef]

Well if your calc is 400 and you want to maintain 450,and your salt is 480, you would have to change most of your water to get it up to 450,

For example, I would guess most or some salts are not 480

Sorry was this example not clear?