Trigger Blisters

[quandary_23]

I setup a FO tank, 46 gallon bow front, with ~40-45 lbs base rock, 5 lb precured, added live rock pieces from my well established 40 Cube Reef. There are two powerheads, a protein skimmer, and cheato in the tank.

I let the tank go for about 2 months before adding fish, currently there is ad a 4-5" Bursa Trigger and 4 small green chromis.

THe Trigger developed two sores on each side of its body, back behind the eye. I am not sure if cut himself of the rock, but they seem to have gotten bigger.

I am treating with LIFEGUARD. I am on the fourth day of treatment, fish still is eating well. I did a 10 gallon water change today before adding the days dose.

Has anyone tried LIFEGUARD before, says to treat for 5 days. BUt I don't think the blisters are going to be gone by then. Looking for advice on what to do next.

Water parameters are clean - even had the local reef shop check for me.

 

[quandary_23]

Pics

Sorry for poor quality (camera is out getting worked on)

 

[TripleT]

Post your water parameters.

Is he flashing against the rocks? Scraping himself?

How are the chromis doing?

What are you feeding, and how often?

What water are you using?

Lifeguard:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=14980

Use one tablet per 10 gallons of aquarium water for a treatment period of 5 consecutive days. Not suitable for invertebrates or newly set up aquariums.

Sounds like something I would not use in my display tank.

Do you have a QT?

 

[quandary_23]

All the chromis seem fine, the one shown above seems to have some white on the back of his tail. I am feeding once a day and twice a day every other day. Food might be a problem, right now I am feeding only mysis shrimp.

Using RO/DI water. Just setup a 5 stage system purchased from the Filter Guys about 2 weeks ago. Use that in this tank and the 40 cube reef (never had a problem in that tank).

I have a 10 gallon tank I could setup as a QT if needed.

I am not sure if this is a type of infection or just from the fish wedging himself in at night. Have you had any fish cut them selves on rock?

I will try to get water parameters posted soon, don't have any test equipment currently. Will make a run to the local reef shop tomorrow and show the guys their the pic as well when they test the water.

thanks

 

[quandary_23]

Sorry forgot to respond to your other question,

No scraping.

 

[TripleT]

All the chromis seem fine, the one shown above seems to have some white on the back of his tail.

Keep a close eye on them. I wouldn't be surprised if the others start showing signs as well.

I am feeding once a day and twice a day every other day. Food might be a problem, right now I am feeding only mysis shrimp.

Yeah, this is not ideal.

I would feed three times a day, as much as they will eat in a few minutes.

Get some krill, squid, Marine Cuisine, table shrimp, scallop, etc. Your trigger will eat it all.

Soak some overnight in supplements as well. Flakes and pellets might come in handy here too, they will readily absorb supplements like Zoe and Zoecon.

For your chromis, make sure to get some spirulina enriched brine, and frozen food for omnivores, like Fish and Reef #1:

If you're inclined, you might also start looking into making your own foods. It's pretty easy, and a money saver as well:

http://www.melevsreef.com/food.html

 

[TripleT]

I have a 10 gallon tank I could setup as a QT if needed.

You might need a QT for a different treatment, based on the outcome of the LIFEGUARD. And it will serve you well in the future. Do you have a heater and filter for it?

I am not sure if this is a type of infection or just from the fish wedging himself in at night. Have you had any fish cut them selves on rock?

They will do this for various reasons... none of which are very good. But it wouldn't be from simply wedging himself against one.

don't have any test equipment currently

This is a big red flag.

You need to buy a few test kits. Salifert is among the best. API is cheaper, but you get what you pay for.

Ammonia, nitrite, and PH are among the most important. While you're at it nitrates as well.

I would assume the worst of your water quality, and prepare to do a large water change. A well done, and large water change can boost a fish's immune system. Just make sure to match the PH, salinity, and temperature exactly. And mix the salt for at least 24 hours to allow it to stabilize.