Trouble keeping my broodstock system clean

spshead01

In Memoriam
My broodstock system consist of 16-20g tanks with 16 pairs of clowns there is around 375gph going to each tank there is an overflow in each tank I have a 80w UV steilizer, 2 square ft of bio balls and 2 octopuss nw200's and a Aqua C ev240 and three phosban reactors with carbon in them. My tanks get so nasty so fast, I will clean the tanks completely with a scraper and suck out the debri and in 3-5 days they are cover in sludge again no hair algea but cyano type crap am I missing something as far as filtration goes I have a 20mg per hr ozone genarator but I dont have a controller so I cant run it. What do you guys think?
 
You have a lot of nutrients coming out of the back ends of those fish. _Something_ is going to take advantage of that. By scraping down to bare glass you are making sure that no algae can take hold. So, the cyano will. I'd try to set up an algae filter on your system. Make it a place where conditions are perfect for algae to grow (much better conditions than inside the brood tanks). Eventually, the algae will out-compete the cyano.

Otherwise, more water changes....

Btw, cyano is thought by some to give off some pretty bad toxins that are really awful for larvae.
 
I am having similar issues with my system. I have just been told that it is most likely to be lighting issues. I picked up some shop fitting lights for free. When I got them I didn't bother changing out the existing tubes. I have been told that I need lights with a different spectrum that do not promote algae growth. I am intending to change out one set of lights at a time, physically remove as much of the cyano as I can, use Antired and move a skimmer from tank to tank to provide extra skimming as the cyano hopefully dies off.

At this stage the cyano doesn't seem to be causing any problems with my larvae.

Graham
 
I let the hair algae/coralline take 3 sides of the tank and do not disturb it unless a tank is taken off line. That way it regulates itself and actually only grows to a point then starts to die off. It also keeps the cyano from taking hold. Other tips are only use RO/DI water, Keep Calcium and Alkalinity as high in these tanks as you would your reef, and clean/rinse your food before feeding. The "juice" frozen foods are packed in are a large source of algae fuel.

Also, how old is this system?
 
I always use ro-di. I do a 50g water change every other week. I just ordered a pinpiont orp monitor/ controller so Im going to run ozone, what orp should I set it at I've never run ozone before. And My eggs are left with the parents in till hatch nite the they are hatched remotely in my larval systems so no effect on larva.
 

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