TTM, Observation, Ich, and Prazipro questions.

[izzyish]

When my wife and I first started this hobby we were like every other noob that didn't do research. We started with a 45 gallon tank and placed newly acquired stock in it without quarantine. Yellow tang, maroon clown, tomato clown, and lawnmower blenny were doing great until we bought a quarter sized regal tang. The regal tang had ich and infected the tank. It was my wife's tank so she treated it with Kordon's Ich Attack and UV. She treated for 3-4 weeks until we saw no more ich. I was surprised that she was able to treat ich and keep all the fish alive. After a couple months went by the regal tang was getting huge and with a little reading we realized the tank was too small. So I decided to do my own build to later transfer both the yellow and regal tang. Both have been transferred and are doing great and loving their new home. It has been 8 months since the last time we saw ich.

Currently I have a foxface going through a TTM because he got ich, he is doing well. What I've come to realize after reading most of Snorvich's threads on how to treat ich is that the treatment my wife used to get rid of ich in her tank really didn't get rid of it. From what I've read, I think the fish built up an immunity to that strand of ich. If this is true than the ich is still in her tank and possibly on the fish that I transferred into the new tank.

Since I transferred the Regal and Yellow tang into the new tank, could I have infected the new tank with ich? A month ago I added two lyretail anthias into my DT after a month of QT and they are doing well. No sign of ich at all so maybe I got lucky.


I have one more transfer to go with my foxface. After the last transfer I'll be planning to dose prazipro and observing for two weeks. What all should I be looking for during observation?

During TTM, I scoop out the foxface with a breeder box that has slits so the water can drain out. I read that old water should not be transferred into the new tank but there is still drips of water on the breeder box, is it okay to still place into new tank water?

After the observation period, how would you recommend transferring new fish into the display tank? Since SG and temp is the same do you put him straight in or do you still acclimate, if so how long do you acclimate for?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you guys, especially snorvich, for all the time you guys put in in writing and responding to questions such as mine.

TIA!

 

[izzyish]

When my wife and I first started this hobby we were like every other noob that didn't do research. We started with a 45 gallon tank and placed newly acquired stock in it without quarantine. Yellow tang, maroon clown, tomato clown, and lawnmower blenny were doing great until we bought a quarter sized regal tang. The regal tang had ich and infected the tank. It was my wife's tank so she treated it with Kordon's Ich Attack and UV. She treated for 3-4 weeks until we saw no more ich. I was surprised that she was able to treat ich and keep all the fish alive. After a couple months went by the regal tang was getting huge and with a little reading we realized the tank was too small. So I decided to do my own build to later transfer both the yellow and regal tang. Both have been transferred and are doing great and loving their new home. It has been 8 months since the last time we saw ich.

Currently I have a foxface going through a TTM because he got ich, he is doing well. What I've come to realize after reading most of Snorvich's threads on how to treat ich is that the treatment my wife used to get rid of ich in her tank really didn't get rid of it. From what I've read, I think the fish built up an immunity to that strand of ich. If this is true than the ich is still in her tank and possibly on the fish that I transferred into the new tank.

Since I transferred the Regal and Yellow tang into the new tank, could I have infected the new tank with ich? A month ago I added two lyretail anthias into my DT after a month of QT and they are doing well. No sign of ich at all so maybe I got lucky.


I have one more transfer to go with my foxface. After the last transfer I'll be planning to dose prazipro and observing for two weeks. What all should I be looking for during observation?

During TTM, I scoop out the foxface with a breeder box that has slits so the water can drain out. I read that old water should not be transferred into the new tank but there is still drips of water on the breeder box, is it okay to still place into new tank water?

After the observation period, how would you recommend transferring new fish into the display tank? Since SG and temp is the same do you put him straight in or do you still acclimate, if so how long do you acclimate for?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you guys, especially snorvich, for all the time you guys put in in writing and responding to questions such as mine.

TIA!

The foxface mentioned in my post is one that I just purchased from Blue Zoo Acquatics about three weeks ago. I originally had him in QT for observation with an angelfish and boom ich happened. This is my first fish going through a TTM and so far so good. Although it's a ton of work and my wife looks at me crazy because she thinks I'm doing too much, I'll feel better knowing that foxface is ich free.

 

[Spar]

I have one more transfer to go with my foxface. After the last transfer I'll be planning to dose prazipro and observing for two weeks. What all should I be looking for during observation?

mainly just observing for normal behavior; eating fine, swimming fine, etc. this period is mostly important in order to ensure that nothing worse than Ich is on the fish, such as velvet or brook.

During TTM, I scoop out the foxface with a breeder box that has slits so the water can drain out. I read that old water should not be transferred into the new tank but there is still drips of water on the breeder box, is it okay to still place into new tank water?

water is OK to transfer over in moderation. what TTM is doing is removing the fish from a tank that has ich cysts in it. but, the cysts are hardened to the surface of the tank or equipment, not free floating. in theory (albeit not advised to do so) you could use all of the old water (just dump it over to the new tank) and you would still have success of eradicating Ich. that said, the residual water on the scooper is 100% OK.

After the observation period, how would you recommend transferring new fish into the display tank? Since SG and temp is the same do you put him straight in or do you still acclimate, if so how long do you acclimate for?

I put them straight over. No need to do anything more if temp and SG are the same.

 

[Spar]

Since I transferred the Regal and Yellow tang into the new tank, could I have infected the new tank with ich? A month ago I added two lyretail anthias into my DT after a month of QT and they are doing well. No sign of ich at all so maybe I got lucky.

yes, the new tank is highly likely infected now, as are those fish. healthy fish will often have ich, but not show negative effects.

you will need to remove all fish and TTM them as well. and you will need to leave your DT fallow for 10 weeks (72 days). you can setup a simple temporary tank in the meantime post-TTM but before bringing them back into the DT.

 

[snorvich]

I totally agree with what Spar said above.

 

[izzyish]

Thank you Spar. I'm glad Petco is having the $1 for gallon sale today so I can buy a big enough tank to hold these guys and start this fallow period. Since the tank will be fallow for 72 days what should I do to keep the bacteria alive in the Display tank? Also, what do I do to keep the ammonia in check when my fish are done with TTM and are in the ich free tank waiting to go back into the DT? Do I just do water changes when my ammonia badge detects ammonia? Should I be proactive and do water changes everyday? What percentage of a water change would you recommend? Thanks again!

 

[Spar]

Thank you Spar. I'm glad Petco is having the $1 for gallon sale today so I can buy a big enough tank to hold these guys and start this fallow period. Since the tank will be fallow for 72 days what should I do to keep the bacteria alive in the Display tank? Also, what do I do to keep the ammonia in check when my fish are done with TTM and are in the ich free tank waiting to go back into the DT? Do I just do water changes when my ammonia badge detects ammonia? Should I be proactive and do water changes everyday? What percentage of a water change would you recommend? Thanks again!

You can continue to feed fish food to your DT which will keep the bacteria thriving. Just do 1/2-3/4 as much you normally would.

To keep ammonia in check, a combination of things. You can add Amquel or Prime regularly, even every day if you want. Water changes on top of that, even if just 25% every 4 days or so, but more won't hurt and may be needed if ammonia spikes up unexpectedly. Once you get a good feel for ammonia levels you can start reducing that %/frequency. I would also recommend adding in a sponge filter to the tank and adding in some bacteria-in-a-bottle; this will speed up things substantially.

 

[izzyish]

Thanks Spar, just did my last transfer and added a filter sponge. I went and bought Seachem's Stability to add some bacteria in. What is your procedure in dosing Prazipro?

 

[Spar]

prazi - i wait until after TTM. dose day 1, and then again day 7 or 8. usually a 25-33% water change in between and on day 15'ish.

 

[izzyish]

Thanks Spar, I appreciate all the help!

I see you're in Plano, On 2/28/15 why don't you hop on 45 south and come down to Houston for Reef Currents, it's Houston's version of MACNA. This is the second year, I wasn't in the hobby to go to the first one but I read great reviews.

http://www.reefcurrents.org/