TVS 75 Gallon Build

My diamond goby pulled an incredible vanishing act yesterday. Somehow she managed to make it to the sump. There are only 3 ways for her to get there, and one is virtually impossible, she can't go down the main drain because she is too small to fit through the snail guard. That leaves 2 ways. She could have jumped out of the tank and through the canopy fans, or over the edge (unlikely) and fallen down between the tank and the wall, then somehow miraculously end up in the sump while falling or flopping around. I consider this highly unlikely though. I'm assuming she jumped and somehow managed to land in the herbie emergency drain. The drain opening that she had to jump into is about 2" above the water line. Then she had to make it through the dry pipe which includes about a 1.5' horizontal section before making it to the sump. I'm planning on adding a strainer to the emergency drain now. Long story short, I rescued her and all is well.
 
Hey there, I am going from a 40 breeder packed with sps to a 75 gallon and I wanted to know how do you like the light so far I have the same light just 36 inches not 48 I know you are going to pull alot of par from the bulbs.
 
I don't have a PAR meter so I can't give you numbers. I have trouble finding enough shade for my lps even on the sand. I can tell that I moved my red planet up too fast for it to properly acclimate to the light. It is growing and encrusting, but the top of the frag has slightly bleached and I'm fairly certain that is because it is getting blasted with light. Overall, I would venture to guess that your experience with a 36" over a 40 br would be comparable to a 48" over a 75 gallon. Since 75s are deeper, you can expect less PAR on the sand bed, but so far I've found that there is plenty of light even that deep. Hope that helps.
 
yes it does. I know the 75 is about 4 inches deeper then the 40 breeder. I know how you feel with the red planet. I moved mine up to fast and now it is pink and red.
 
A few days ago I noticed small reddish spots here and there on the rock. At the time I couldn't really recall if they were always there or not. Today, my MP40 was vibrating slightly, so I took out the wet side to give it a cleaning (it still had a thin coat of bacterial slime, and a bit of diatoms which grew on it during the cycle, there was also a large trochus snail nearby at the time which may have knocked it out of alignment). Upon further inspection, there are small red colored spots on the MP40 too. Coralline has arrived! I didn't really know how long it would take considering I was using all dry rock, and only seeded with one fist sized piece of live rock and whatever coralline came on any livestock.

In other news, I also have found my first pest (debatable). I have a couple vermettid snails that came in on a acan frag. Time to break out the tweezers and super glue!
 
New toys :thumbsup:

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I've been battling what I figure is a massive ongoing bacterial issue for several months now. I've never experienced anything like this. Since probably some time in January, I have had less than crystal clear water. Some days it is down right foggy. Like a cloudy bacterial bloom. The tank also generates a ton of bacterial slime. So much that mesh filter socks clog up in a day. I can't run carbon or GFO in my reactors because the sponges clog up so quick and limit the flow so much that they are not effective. The bacteria slime grows on the rocks on the tank and on every surface in the sump.

Considering that I have a minimal amount of rock (100% BRS pukani dry rock) in the aquarium, I had thought that there might not be sufficient surface area for bacteria growth. I've been interested in advancements in carbon dosing and biopellets, so I thought that I'd give them a shot as can be seen in my last post. I thought that maybe the pellet reactor would help with the bacteria issue by giving it a proper home in the reactor, but after nearly 2 months of having the pellets running, I've seen no improvement in the slime.

Let me be clear that the problem existed for months before I added the reactor and I have no indication that the reactor is causing any part of the problem, but it doesn't seem to be helping so far either. I have gotten the littlest bit of brown cyano growth since I added the reactor though. Not much at all. Just spots here and there around the base of some rocks. I first noticed it weeks ago and while it remains, it has not gotten worse. Hardly any algae growth other than that. The littlest bit of diatoms or brown micro algae grows on the overflow box and spots on rocks. Normal levels imo, not a nuisance problem in the least. Bulbs are 7 months old, but I don't think this has anything to do with lighting because I get lots of slime growth in the dark sump.

I have 7 fish. 2 clarkii clowns, flame hawk, diamond goby, sixline wrasse, 2 pj cardinals. I feed frozen food krill, mysis, brine shrimp, bloodworms sparingly once per day. I thaw it in RO water and admittedly most of the time I do not rinse it properly.

I have a high end RO/DI system that gives me 0TDS water which I use for top offs and water changes. I change 5 gallons once a week religiously using IO. I buffer the IO with Kent Tech to raise the Calc and Mag. I dose the tank with a minimal amount of Kent Tech for Alk and Calc daily.

Parameters:
35ppt salinity
78-79 F daily swing
8.5 dKH (hanna checker)
400 ppm Calc (salifert)
1400 ppm Mag (salifert)
0.07-0.04 ppm phosphate (hach colormeter)
nitrate is generally undetectable with API kit, sometimes it looks like it might be one shade up the color chart but it is hard to tell, I want a better nitrate kit.
Ammonia and nitrite are undetectable (API).
I honestly don't test the pH and just rely on keeping Alk in check.

Livestock observations: Fish are 100% happy, healthy, eating. SPS are growing. 2 clams, derasa and crocea are healthy, good mantle extension, no pigmentation loss, obvious new growth added to the shells. Some of my LPS seem great (meat coral, cynaria, open brain, war coral) but my chalice and acans are suffering. The LTA I had started to consistently shrink since January. It seemed healthy only it kept getting smaller and it would not take food into its mouth. Sadly I decided that it was a lost cause and removed it.

I'm at a loss as to this bacteria growth and what is fueling it. My skimmer is cranking along nicely and pulls out a good bit of funky nog. I've never experienced an ongoing bacterial issue like this before.
 
Interesting :::

What are you using for flow?
Try 15g per week . I do 10g every week and my systems total water is about 75g+\-
How's your sump clean wise?
 
slime

slime

had a similar issue, mine started w bacterial bloom, tank was cloudy, ran uv for a while, cleared up clowdiness, but slime still coated rock, pumps etc. finally figured it must be a dino of some sort, had to slowly raise alk to 14dkh for it to clear up. some corals were not too happy, but after about 3wks of this it cleared up. was battling for 6months, before alk increase. good luck.
 
Thanks for the input you both.

My flow is from 1 vortech mp40, set on reef crest about 80% and the return flow from an eheim 1262, dialed back. I think I have pretty good flow since my aquascape is so open. If I increase the output from either pump I get too much sand movement. I think larger water changes could be an excellent idea, and I'll probably start there. The sump is pretty clean. No detritus in there, just lots of slime on the pumps, skimmer, skimmer stand etc. I do get a bit of detritus accumulation inside my overflow box that settles at the bottom, but I turkey baster the box and collect the detritus in a filter sock in the sump routinely.

Regarding Dinos, while searching RC for information about my problem I came across a few dino threads. My slime doesn't produce any gas bubbles like those that seem to be very prevalent in dino infestations, so I've kinda assumed that my problem isn't dinos but I haven't ruled them out. There just isn't much info about dinos that I've come across. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to take my tank to 14dKH either. I do appreciate all ideas though.
 
i never had bubbles w my bacterial bloom either, sock w clog, would get film on powerheads, rowa would clog. tried everything, large water changes, elevated ph. elevated alk was a last resort before shutting down tank. very slowly elevated alk, would blow rocks substrate and suck out w hose down to sock. you could try slow increase to see if it slows down, then go higher if necessary from there. also if dino related, not sure if mine was or not, i skipped any water changes until bloom, slime gone. good luck
 
You need to find the root...
My recommendations-
increase flow or reposition your Power head
It dosent kill to replace bulbs
Bigger water changes
Lighten up on your feeding( really rinse your food)
Re calibrate your tds meter (maybe your tds meter decalibrated when was the last time u changed your ro/di filters?)
Check your ph
Blow off all the cayno
...you can also try 3days lights out.

What I would do ..take off the pellets ASAP until I have the cayno under control
HTH

-ARLIN
 
I need to clarify, the battle I am fighting is definitely not cyano. I have a miniscule amount of cyano growth that began a couple of weeks ago and has remained in check, but the cloudy water and the snot colored slime is not cyano. I'm absolutely certain of this because it is also growing in a 100% dark sump, and for that same reason I don't think my lights have anything to do with the problem. I'm not ruling it out, but the details of the situation don't point to them as a probable cause.

That said I think a lot of your suggestions are great and I'm going to take action on several of them. Bigger water changes, check. Less feedings and good rinses, check. Regularly blasting the slime off of the rock, check.

Thanks again for the input!
 
Nice build! I don't have any advice on your slime issue, I hope you got it taken care of.

I read through your build thread and have a question about your return pump. I was wondering how much you have the flow throttled back & if you are happy with the Eheim 1262 or would go with the 1260 if you did it again. I saw a few comments leading me to believe that you thought it was too much flow. Also, what is the noise level of that pump? My tank is also in my living room.

I have a sumpless 75gal DT right now & am planning a 40B sump to add on. I see that you are using a lot of the equipment I have been looking at. Your comments on your skimmer have been really helpful. I'm leaning towards the 1260 as a return pump because I don't need it to add any flow to my DT with an MP40W on one side and a 750gph Koralia on the other.

Thanks in advance.
 
Sorry for the long awaited reply, lazyrhino. I've been spending most of my spare time with my hands in the tank and not on the forum. The slime issue is getting better but I'm not ready to declare victory just yet.

As for the eheim 1262, I currently do not have it throttled back much at all. As the guts of the plumbing have slimmed up, flow from the pump has decreased a little bit, and I think that will happen to some degree in all new setups even if they don't have a slime bloom like I have. Based on my reading, the 1262 comes with two hose barb fittings, and if you use the smaller of the two the pump is basically a 1260. I think I may have the smaller fitting on the pump right now, so I think it is running as a 1260 and not a 1262. Supposedly the only difference between the 1260 and 1262 is which fitting you use. I'm not 100% certain of that, but I recall reading something like that when I bought the pump.

I'd venture to guess that you'd be just fine with either the 1260 or 1262, but if you go with the 1262 you may have more flexibility if you decide that a little more flow would be needed, especially if you decide on manifolding reactors from the pump.

I hope that helps and I'm sorry once again for the delayed reply.

Edit: about the noise, the eheims get great reviews from users but in my experience it has not been silent. It is a great pump and much better than mag drive pumps I've used before. I get very slight amounts of vibrational noise from the pump. There are other parts of my setup that are much noisier though, including the fans in the sunpower and the mp40. The only time I can hear any of it is when the room is silent, and the only time I can really distinguish the vibrational noise of the eheim from the rest of the tank noise is when the stand doors are open and I'm down near it.
 
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Thanks so much for taking the time to respond with some great insights. There's so much equipment out there that it's really difficult to compare based on specs alone. It's great to be able to find someone with a similar tank setup to get their opinions.

Thanks again & good luck with the slime.
 
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