Two issues I need help with

[jet fixer]

I'm having two minor issues with my tank that have been bothering me. I think I have figured out the fixes I need your help to ensure my troubleshooting skills are up to par.
I'll start with my parameters:
75 Gal mixed reef w/30 gal sump
SG 1.025
PH 8.1
Alk 9 Dkh
Ca 430
Mg 1470
NO3 0
These are all I test for I have a dual BRS reactor running GFO and carbon.

Issues one:
I'm getting some nuisance algae from a Zoa frag I purchased in a local auction about five months ago. I have been able to keep the algae under control by manual removal but, this has prevented growth with the Zoa's. The frag is attached to a 14# rock so, its getting a little old removing the rock to scrub the algae off every six weeks. The algae has not spread to any other areas of the tank it's just within close proximity of the frag. I'm thinking of turning off the DT lighting for three days to see if this helps. What else can I do besides total removal of the entire frag?

Frag in question:

Issue two:
I purchased Carib sea super reef with the intension of stocking a jaw fish. The plan changed because of an elegance coral I placed on the sand bed. I'm getting a grey/green color to the sand. if I excessively churn up the sand bed the color will remain white for about a month before I need to do it again. I'm running two older model MP10's on a 75 they are turned down to about 50% If I increase flow the corals get agitated. I just ordered the ES wireless kit so I can alternate the flow and increase each power head individually for increased local flow without increasing the total flow of the entire tank.

If that doesn't work (probably won't I just want the new toys) I'm thinking of replacing the sand with a finner grade substrate (ie.. figi pink) or adding a goby/pistol shrimp combo, which would work better?
Here is a bad photo of what I'm talking about notice the green shell. It's worse in other places I just don't have a photo.

If I need to change the substrate what would be the best way to go about it? I've read a little at a time and all at once. I'm leaning toward all at one time my concern is agitating the corals, mini cycle , and cloudiness If I do it that way.

Thanks for the help, I know they are just minor complaints I'm starting to think I'm getting OCD.

 

[Metal Man 1221]

probably phosphates, do you know what your levels are at?

PO4 will affect the algae on your frag and what ever is on your substrate. your GFO may be exhausted, when was the last time you changed it out?

For higher levels of PO4 youll need to change your GFO more frequently to get to desirable levels, after which you can change less frequently, but you can really only tell when GFO needs changing by testing the water for when your levels of PO4 stop decreasing.

 

[Alysiak00]

crank up your water changes to atleast once a week or even better twice a week.
change your gfo every 2 weeks (i know its expensive but its worth it)
clean your sump/filter as well as your skimmer.
*definitely check your water source for a 0-TDS (ro/di or even just ro)

keep this up and your good!

 

[tkeracer619]

Bryopsis will grow in very low levels of po4.

You can try to raise your MG levels up with Tech-M. It has a great effect on byropsis. Not all mag additives will work. Tech-M has a pretty good track record of removing algae like you have.

As for the green algae on the sand it is probably phosphate related. I would change out your gfo a little more regularly.

GFO can exhaust in a matter of hours if the tank is loaded. I don't think you have that problem but I do think you might have slightly elevated levels.

If you can. Re frag the frag to remove the areas that are effected. Any time I see algae like that on a plug and its isolated 9 times out of 10 its because the plug is loaded with phosphates. Removing the original plug or rock would be my start.

 

[jet fixer]

Thanks,

My train of thought is even with zero Po4 I can still have po4 so, I don't trust po4 test kits and don't waste the money on them. I increased the amount of GFO 1/4 C last week to 1.25 cup and normally change it monthly. I just tested the RO/DI water in my storage container with a handheld meter and got 0.8 PPM. I can tell the algae on the Zoa frag is a different type than what is on the sand didn't think it was bryopsis I'll try raising the mag. If I can get rid of the algae that was introduced with the frag I'm sure it will not come back as my tank has it isolated now. I'm thinking if my tank was a good environment for this algae wouldn't't it have spread more after five months? As a last resort I can remove the frag scrape the rock where the algae has spread to try again with something else. I do know I'll never buy anything from this guy again.
The circumstances behind the purchase were he was late to the auction so I could not view his frags. No one was bidding on his stuff and I got caught-up in a pity party, offered 1/3rd of the starting bid. and won three pest introductions to my tank. This frag also introduced Aiptasia and bubble algae to my tank. I've been able to control those it's just this algae is giving me more trouble than my experience can deal with.


I think I can deal with the algae on the sand with more flow, turnover or a finer substrate. I had a fighting conch but it starved so, I'm thinking more turnover or flow would be the best way. The three days of lights out would just give me a headstart.