Two Tunze powerheads dead after power loss

[KJoFan]

We had a very brief power outage (surge?) at my house today. I discovered a Tunze 6105 with power but would not work, as well as a 6095 seemingly dead. The lights on the controller of the 6095 were on, but it wasn't working. I unplugged and plugged it back in and now no lights on the controller come on.

They both were plugged into a surge protector/power strip but apparently that didn't help.

Is there anything I can do/try or are they done for?

The 6105 is the older style, no built in controller like the 6095 circa 2013.

 

[KJoFan]

Update:

I got the 6105 working again for now with some unplugging/replugging of all components.

Not as lucky with the 6095. No lights on the in line controller.


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[rvitko]

I would make sure they are clean, it is possible for a dirty pump to stay spinning but be unable to start. This won't explain the controller lights but it is worth checking as it could be a factor. I would try the power supply of the 6105 on the 6095, it won't harm it and we can then rule out that it is just a blown out power supply. A lot of things can be at play as well outside the actual surge, sometimes it is just the restarting or starting over and over if the power company is repairing something and even then there is a limit to what most surge supressors can do, they can smooth out a small range of say 90-170V but cannot do much against a few hundred or more volts from a lightning strike, a lot of the more basic surge supressors are not very useful, the higher end ones that offer a guarantee on connected equipment tend to be much better.

 

[KJoFan]

The 6105 came out of storage clean a couple days ago so I don't think that's it. It's also back to not working at all.

The 6095 is a bit dirty and could be cleaned but that doesn't explain the no lights on the controller.

Swapping power supplies also did not work.

I don't know what caused the power outage surge. I just know it was brief and affected the whole town. Granted it's a small town but still. Perhaps work being done at a substation somewhere or something.

Either way I'm still sitting with two dead powerheads at this point.


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[rvitko]

Send them in, I am sure we can repair them for much less than replacing them in any case.

Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610

 

[KJoFan]

I can probably send in the 6095 and one of the 6105's. I have two of the 6105's that do this same thing. In fact, the other 6105 randomly stopped working several months ago. I got fed up and just put it in storage. I decided to pull it out today just to see if I could get something to work and lo and behold it fired right off.

I don't know what's causing the issues as it will seem like I just randomly come home one day and it has stopped working. I'm surely stumped.

At any rate, I need one working 6105 currently, so can send two of three. If it's something easily fixable or if there's even an issue to fix, then we can do the third one as well.

 

[rvitko]

On the 6105's I am leaning towards this being a drive unit issue, if these are made after Nov 2011, the metal shaft should be rigidly fixed in the motor, it is not meant to come out. The drive unit should spin on the shaft, anything made before Nov 2011 the shaft is removable, it spans to the front cover and the drive unit should spin freely on the shaft. If the shafts wobble from being loose, that will cause intermittent operation, if you can reseat them firmly they will work, if not, you need motor block 6105.100 to repair these.

 

[KJoFan]

Two Tunze powerheads dead after power loss

On the 6105's I am leaning towards this being a drive unit issue, if these are made after Nov 2011, the metal shaft should be rigidly fixed in the motor, it is not meant to come out. The drive unit should spin on the shaft, anything made before Nov 2011 the shaft is removable, it spans to the front cover and the drive unit should spin freely on the shaft. If the shafts wobble from being loose, that will cause intermittent operation, if you can reseat them firmly they will work, if not, you need motor block 6105.100 to repair these.

I think they are the type where the drive shaft is rigidly fixed in the motor but I'm not sure. Is there a way to tell by a serial number or something?

Neither metal shaft appears loose or wobbly in any way.


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[KJoFan]

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[KJoFan]

I believe this indicates a new motor block is needed. Likely for both 6105's. Is that accurate Roger?

What causes the impeller to get loose if it's designed to be rigid? Just time and wear?


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[rvitko]

If you can press the shaft in and it fits tight you could reseat it with some super glue and tapping it in with a hammer, fully seated the top is just below the top of the well, so you need for example a 1/4 socket driver and a very small socket or a recessed punch to fully seat the shaft. Typically this is caused by calcium cementing the drive unit to the shaft, even not fully seized the heat produced by the friction softens the plastic and they work loose. The key to preventing this is every 4-6 months disassemble the pump and soak all parts in 50/50 vinegar and water until no calcium deposits remain. Soaking without disassembly is not effective as the spaces are so tight the parts will not be cleaned sufficiently. If you cannot reseat the shaft, new motors will solve this.

 

[KJoFan]

If you can press the shaft in and it fits tight you could reseat it with some super glue and tapping it in with a hammer, fully seated the top is just below the top of the well, so you need for example a 1/4 socket driver and a very small socket or a recessed punch to fully seat the shaft. Typically this is caused by calcium cementing the drive unit to the shaft, even not fully seized the heat produced by the friction softens the plastic and they work loose. The key to preventing this is every 4-6 months disassemble the pump and soak all parts in 50/50 vinegar and water until no calcium deposits remain. Soaking without disassembly is not effective as the spaces are so tight the parts will not be cleaned sufficiently. If you cannot reseat the shaft, new motors will solve this.

I will give it a try and see what happens.

I have determined the 6095 power supply is dead. When I swap with the working one it seems to work. I will investigate a little further but seems a new power supply is in order for that one.

Slowly, but surely solving the puzzles.


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[KJoFan]

Roger,

Does it need to go slightly further?

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[rvitko]

I am sorry I missed this. Just slightly more, 1-2mm more.