Typhoon III ??

[acrouse]

I got the RO/DI hooked up 4 days ago. Did all the tests and every thing was great. TDS of Tap water is 200ppm RO/DI is 0ppm. today I went to make up 25 gal of water (5 gal at a time) for a change and tested the RO/DI at the start and it was 0ppm. At the 15gal mark (3rd 5 gal bucket ) TDS was 13, last 5 gal bucket was 5 TDS. Also there is what looks like a rusty color forming in the carbon filter canister. Is this typical for the system? I got the 100GPD unit. what is that rust color?

 

[funman1]

Not sure about the rust color, but what you really needed was the 75G unit. That's the one for reefers.

I think that's why your TDS is so high??

Also did you let it run for a few hours and dump everything it made?
New units need to be purged of the nasty perservitives they use for sotrage of the unit..

 

[BadOleRoss]

I agree w/funman, I think your problem is with the 100gpd unit. Getting those extra 25gpd means a little more TDS gets past the filters. I have been using my Typhoon III for months going through hundreds of gallons and I a still at 0 TDS.

 

[crumbletop]

I answered this in your other thread about the same thing (in the lighting, etc. forum). I think you are fine. The first bunch of water coming off the RO membrane has the packing chemicals in it that needs to be washed out of the system. I made the same mistake you did and let the water run through the DI for the first bunch of gallons. I should have wasted the RO only and then hooked up the DI. The rust color on the bottom is the color changing resin being used up.

Jack

 

[acrouse]

Thanks for the information-I did not run RO waste water before hooking up the DI-but I will go do that and see what happens. Do I then need to hook up the DI and run more waste water? Thanks

 

[acrouse]

Also, I am confused about the 100gpd not being good water for reefs. (75gpd being better). I purchased it from airwaterice.com and they advertise both for aquariams? Just looked on their website to double check. thanks again

 

[acrouse]

I think I have my own answer -I can use the same system and just change to a 75gpd filter-no need to change the whole system. (thanks crumbletop). Sorry for the double post, just thought It would be a better question for the other forum after I posted here. Didn't know how to cancel this post. Now I'm off to waste some water. Thanks everybody

 

[crumbletop]

You should be good to go after wasting a little more RO water. check the TDS coming out of the RO and see what that is doing. For the 100 gpd membrane, I believe the rejection rate is 90% and so you should see a TDS that is 10% of your input tds. If that is not the case then you should contact Walter at AWI. The 100 gpd is fine for reefs, it will just cause you to go through the DI resin more quickly, so it will cost more in the long run to operate than the 75gpd would. Once the membrane chemicals have washed out and you re-hook up the DI, your TDS after the DI should be 0.

Jack

 

[Gluestick]

I have the Typhoon III also (75 gpd unit), and I was so grossed out when I saw the rust color after only 3 days! I was going to ask the same questions, so thanks!

 

[Scuba_Dave]

I have the 100gpd unit & have always had 0 TDS.
I have a whole house filter for sediment
Right after that I ran CPVC to where my RO/DI is located
In warm weather I re-use the "waste" water for the gardens