Ultraviolet sterilizer in a reef????

I know there is a reason I dont already use on on my reef but I cannot remember exactly why...I think it kills copepods but does it kill the stuff in the water column that feeds the corals too?

Is there a way to have a UV safely killing and helping to prevent ick without it hurting the reef? IN other words is there a way for the UV to be used safely in a reef or is it still not a good idea?

Thanks people for your input

Merry Christmas!

Tim:beer:
 
I have a 150 watt sterilizer on my reef and have 0 issues. Not sure who told you they aren't good. Whoever that was was wrong.


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who told me....

who told me....

I am not sure it is just that general info you HEAR over the years....
Someone said that whatever goes through the unit it KILLS...
So if there is food in the water colum (Plankton or whatever its called) then it gets killed when it goes through leaving the corals short for food is that not right or possible? Also copepod populations are trimmed signicantly with it.

Can you please send me a picture of your reef that has the UV on it
would very much appreciate that!

Thanks for your input sir! I want to get a UV but am scared that it might have negagtive effect on corals?

Cheers,
Thanks again,
TIm
 
b56c7a5e678597afb2af521484a43fa7.jpg



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Im not sure what you are trying to accomplish.
I will guess
A UV works by preventing organisms from multiplying.
You can use an under powered unit or put too much flow thru a bigger unit.
It will not get everything passing thru it.
It is not selective.
It cant be set to only get rid of ich while not getting rid of something else.
 
A UV will kill anything alive that passes through it - good or bad. Most of the good stuff is living in your rocks, so whatever good stuff it kills in the water column is negligible. The bad stuff also exists in both the water column and in the rocks, which is why a UV is rarely capable of 100% eradication.

But the only downsides to running a UV are a) The cost - lamps needs to be replaced periodically b) It may lull a hobbyist into a false sense of security when it comes to Ich and other pathogens.
 
Thanks Everyone...I have decided to go with a UV in the New Year! Any models you cats suggest? My tank is mostly LPS but will have the odd softy and the odd SPS....it is
a 160 gallon with a 50 gallon sump...running about 130-140 gallons of water after the rock displacement. What UV you sugget and what pump to run it?
 
I am so glad to hear this! Awesome bullnose tank!!! How long has it been set up and how long have you had the UV on it...HOw often you change bulb on UV? What make and model UV you use? Thanks again! Tim
 
I am so glad to hear this! Awesome bullnose tank!!! How long has it been set up and how long have you had the UV on it...HOw often you change bulb on UV? What make and model UV you use? Thanks again! Tim



Only model I recommend is emperor aquatics also known as pentair. I also suggest a unit half the size of the gallons of water so if you have a 100 gallon tank you'll need a 50 watt uv.


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I am so glad to hear this! Awesome bullnose tank!!! How long has it been set up and how long have you had the UV on it...HOw often you change bulb on UV? What make and model UV you use? Thanks again! Tim



This tank has been set up since March. I transferred everything to this from a
150. This tank is 260 gallons. Bulbs should be replaced annually and the sleeve also may need to be replaced depending on how dirty it gets.


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Thanks Everyone...I have decided to go with a UV in the New Year! Any models you cats suggest? My tank is mostly LPS but will have the odd softy and the odd SPS....it is
a 160 gallon with a 50 gallon sump...running about 130-140 gallons of water after the rock displacement. What UV you sugget and what pump to run it?



I would look for an 80 watt emperor aquatics UV if I were you.


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Emperor

Emperor

Holy Hanna the Emperor 80watter is not cheap!
Gotta pay to Play ! :-)

Thanks RBU1 and all others.

Cheers

Tim
 
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I think I might just do that...emperor 80 watt is what i need.

Thanks

Tim

What do you want this UV sterilizer for?

80W is only good for fighting algae and bacteria blooms, both rather rare and unlikely events in a properly set up reef tank.

If you want it to control fish parasites like Cryptocaryon (ick) and Amyloodinium (velvet) or even just potentially harmful bacteria then you need a UV unit like you can find at swimming pools and fish wholesaler systems. Those are usually in the 1000W ranges. 250W would be the bare minimum for a smaller tank and you would need to have a water throughput of at least 7 times the tank volume per hour.

All UV sterilizers have in common that the bulbs only work for 3 to 6 months. What happens is that the UV radiation over time changes the special UV translucent glass of the bulb so that the glass becomes opaque for UV light. The bulb will still look like it is working but the generated UV radiation gets absorbed by the glass and can't reach the water anymore. This makes UV a rather costly option for hobbyist tanks.
 
how you explain success

how you explain success

Thanks for your input on UV..and I am NOT saying you are wrong but please explain then how some reefers that are using UV swear by them and have
had success with what they claim is cleaner tank and zero ick...are they
thinking iit is the UV and it is not it is just a more well balanced system?

Thx again for your input

Tim
 
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