UV sterilizer

Cozwey

Go Canada!!!!
Ok so we are going to pick up a uv system today.
We have issues in our QT with ICH and some algae.
We found this unit Coralife Turbo-Twist 3X UV Sterilizer - 9W.
We think it will be a perfect size for our tank(s).
Have anyone else used this unit? I have read mostly positive reviews and it appears to be very simple to use.
 
I don't have a twist personally but I have a friend that has the 9W on a 30 gallon cube and they seem to like it. They haven't had any problems that I know of. I run a 25W Aqua Ultraviolet UV on my 100 gallon system and swear by UV sterilizers. I think any UV will do the trick really.
 
The 9 watt twist says it can handle up to 125 gallons. Initially we will use it on our 55gallon qt. if we like it we may pick up 2 more as we have a 60 dt and 120 dt.
Do you think the 9 watt will handle the 120?
 
I have a 36watt on a 360 gal SW system. I love it. My water has never been so clean and clear. I am thinking about purchasing another for my 125 gal FW system. The only thing I don't like about it, it is hard to get apart with you want to clean the quartz sleeve.
 
One thing I'd note about UV sterilizers in general is that the power required for a particular application (and thus the max size tank for a given UV wattage) sensitively depends on what you're trying to kill. Bacteria require far less irradiation for a 99% kill than do parasites.

However, since a UV unit isn't effective at eliminating a parasite like ich or amlyoodinium from fish in a QT, one doesn't typically install the very high output that would be required to achieve a 99% kill for these pests.

So from the perspective of killing water-clouding bacteria and/or algae, the manufacturer's guideline is probably pretty accurate. That assumes, however, that the UV bulb is fresh. They deteriorate in short-wave UV output very quickly, however, so to remain effective the bulb has to be replaced every 3 months or so.
 
One thing I'd note about UV sterilizers in general is that the power required for a particular application (and thus the max size tank for a given UV wattage) sensitively depends on what you're trying to kill. Bacteria require far less irradiation for a 99% kill than do parasites.

However, since a UV unit isn't effective at eliminating a parasite like ich or amlyoodinium from fish in a QT, one doesn't typically install the very high output that would be required to achieve a 99% kill for these pests.

So from the perspective of killing water-clouding bacteria and/or algae, the manufacturer's guideline is probably pretty accurate. That assumes, however, that the UV bulb is fresh. They deteriorate in short-wave UV output very quickly, however, so to remain effective the bulb has to be replaced every 3 months or so.

I agree. Also be sure to keep the sleeve clean.
 
One thing I'd note about UV sterilizers in general is that the power required for a particular application (and thus the max size tank for a given UV wattage) sensitively depends on what you're trying to kill. Bacteria require far less irradiation for a 99% kill than do parasites.

However, since a UV unit isn't effective at eliminating a parasite like ich or amlyoodinium from fish in a QT, one doesn't typically install the very high output that would be required to achieve a 99% kill for these pests.

So from the perspective of killing water-clouding bacteria and/or algae, the manufacturer's guideline is probably pretty accurate. That assumes, however, that the UV bulb is fresh. They deteriorate in short-wave UV output very quickly, however, so to remain effective the bulb has to be replaced every 3 months or so.


I recognize that it will not eradicate Ich but I am running at 1.009 salinity. Between this and the UV system I should ensure that I am doing the most I can.

I have been at hypo for 6 weeks now. This past week I began raising the salinity and noticed my coral beauty began showing signs of spots and fin root again.
Clearly I was not keeping the salinity at a low enough.

I am heading out to the LFS to pick up the UV and pump.
 
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