Velvet, eels, puffer and treatment

Baobao,

I would not say that brooklynella is rare in species other than clownfish, but it is certainly a common problem with clownfish.

I do not recommend freshwater dips or formalin dips for Cryptocaryon irritans (ich). Freshwater dips are ineffective, IMO, for this parasite and cause a lot of stress. Formalin dips are tricky because if formaldehyde is used improperly it can be lethal to the fish as well as dangerous to humans. Hyposalinity does not kill Cryptocaryon directly on the fish. It kills the tomont (not attached to the fish) or reproductive stage of the parasite before it can release a new generation to re-infect the fish.

I prefer formalin dips to freshwater dips for black ich and some other external parasites such as brooklynella. Despite formaldehyde being a poison, if it is used correctly, I think it is more effective and less stressful than a freshwater dip.

Amyloodinium is one of the few things that I would suggest using a freshwater dip for. FW dips are more effective, IMO, against Amyloodinium than against Cryptocaryon. A FW dip can give some relief to fish with Amyloodinium although it is not a cure.

Terry B
 
Is a formalin dips also effective against Amyloodinium? For a formalin bath do you recommend 1ml/gallon and 45 minute duration?
 
Baobao,

I don't recommend formalin dips for either Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. I do recommend formalin dips for brooklynella and some other external parasites.

In many instances a series of three dips, one every third day, is a good idea for things like brooklynella and black ich. ml/gal or 20 drops per gal for 45 minutes is about right. You have to monitor the fish continually in the dip to watch for signs of distress. It is a good idea to aerate the formalin in a little water before you add it to the dip. This will help remove some of the toxic substance that is used to stablize formalin.

Terry B
 
So is there a dip treatment to provide temporary alleviation for fish infected with Crypt? ( I was hoping formalin might be useful as FW dips for Amyloodnium).
 
Just wanted to post a quick update, the clown trigger and the puffer have been totally clear for days. I am keeping the whole tank at fully hypo for the whole month to get rid of all parasites.

I think I am in the clear:)
 
I have been battling ich for what seems like years!! I had my 125 down at 1.009 for 3 months with no signs of ich. Fish looked great, so I slowly brought it up to 1.025, and it came back, worse than ever!
I have also tried FW dips but have only had limited success. THe only thing that has ever worked for me was QUARANTINE. Ich, oodinium, parasites are the MOST ANNOYING aspect of this hobby and take lots of effort to eradicate.
 
XtrmCHoPZ,

What are you using to measure the salinity with? What is the salinity at (NOT the Specific Gravity)? What is the water temperature?

Terry B
 
Im using a refractometer, salinity was at 13. Temp between 80-82 F. I raised the salinity backup and it got worse. Im battling it right now. Just added a bigger UV and am doing lots of water changes. I also thinned out the tank. It was too overstocked. I had 8 fish in a 125. I took out a panther grouper, volitans, and reticulated puffer. In that tank a have a blueface angel and a red coris that NEVER get anything on them. My clown trigger, raccoon butterfly and pand puffer have it one them though =( Im hoping its not oodinium!!!!? After reading all the posts on here im think its not but am not sure. The fish have been dealing with it for almost 3 weeks.....so i figured if it was oodinium it would have gotten REALLY bad by now....right? what do u think terry??
 
Any suggestions NOT involving copper? I used it before on that tank it crashed. I was stupid and didnt know, all my rock died and i killed off all my pods.
 
If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I just checked out my fish and they look bad. I dont want to hypo or use copper but i dont know what other choices i have. I dont feel like killing my rock, snails or pods again. Just did a 25% water change.
 
A frehswater dip may help determine what you are dealing with. Amyloodinium will leave a fine powder-like substance at the bottom of the dip. hyposaline conditions can delay but not kill amyloodinium. This may be the reason that you saw the parasite come back. We really need to get a probable diagnosis. It is possible for the fish to have cryptocaryon and amyloodinium at the same time. Cupramine by Seachem can treat both, but you need a tank without rock or substrate to treat them in. About the only alternative I can offer is the transfer method and it has not yet been sceintificially proven as a treatment for amyloodinium.

You may need to buy a large RUbbermaid container for treatment and make a lot of large water changes. BTW, do you quarantine all fish for 3+ weeks BEFORE they go into your display tank?

Terry B
 
i think i will dip tomorrow. will dipping with meds help? formalin, copper, paraguard?

has anyone kept their fish in a rubbermaid container while treating them??? what should i do for filtration in it if i go with that?
 
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