Vertex Bio Pellets = Too Much Bacteria and Cyano?

skibum9884

skibum9884

Active member
So, I have been running Vertex Bio-Pellets for ~6-8 months now on an Elos System 70 (approx. 65-70 total gallons between the tank and sump). I seem to be having small issues with Cyano, however want to be sure it will not get worse and start affecting my SPS. The Cyano seems to let up after water changes, however I haven't really thought it was related to nutrients but rather bacterial levels in the system (but I could be wrong!).

The system has low nutrients from any tests I do, and the parameters are all in a range I'm satisfied with (I'm using FM's balling salts tied to a GHL doser to keep everything stable, I don't add any supplements manually). Alk = 8.0-8.1, Ca = 430, Mg = 1300.

I'm currently running ~300ml of the pellets in a Reef Octopus reactor, and was under the assumption that you cannot overdose if you add slowly.

What would you guys recommend to help the Cyano issue? Decrease the volume of the pellets, more GFO and Carbon, shorter photoperiod? Any suggestions?
 
I have read and have had success with the theory that adding good bacteria, helps the good bacteria out compete the bad. I dose Microbacter7.
 
I do have some prodibio bioclean sitting around. I suppose I could try that.

Any other opinions? I like the idea of having the good bacteria outcompete the cyano.
 
Zeobak... It's expensive but it give you control of dosing vs prodibio which is dosed at 1 vial every 15 days. MB7 is an enzyme not live bacteria
 
Mb7 every other day. Zeobak opposite days. Try zeo coral snow to help. I'm going through the exact same thing. After doing a ton of research and talking to those with tanks that I admire. Bacteria addition was happening in all of them.
 
So, just to be sure, you guys are advocating using the pellets in conjunction with MB7 and Zeobak? Don't want to overdo it on the bacteria side.
 
I agree if you are using any for of carbon dosing to increase bacteria for ULNS you must add a bacteria additive to increase the diversity of bacteria strains in the tank. The good bacteria will out compete the bad.
 
i run phos+biopellets +carbon 3 of this at my 2lf reactor in my sump, i change water every 2 weeks. although as they say bio-pellets in order to work this method you gotta feed a lot your fish to keep sustainable nutrients in your tank, clean water it will causes rtn & low nutrients. i'm getting some cyno but not really bad as a outbreak didn't have to dose anything to control the cyno all i do just perform a water change every 2 weeks. i'd tried that zeobak something came up in my tank i've lost a few sps colony & those are really nice colony that i have, you may wanna try vinegar that's what one of my local lps store here in canada told me to do but i didn't like what turns out in my tank some of my sps got brown out. now pretty much its coming back the color & got really fully extend polyps, basically what i do is change a water every 2weeks 15g & I dose bio-cal, coral-vite, dkh buffer every 2nd day to mentain my alk that's all.
 
I run a different pellet npx to be exact but all pellets are made from the same company

the cyano from what i believe and im no expert
is dying bacteria that did not make it to your skimmer collection cup
this bacteria turns back in to nutrents and carbon
which the cyano is fueling off of!

Just like with hair alage your parameters will be in check because the n and p are locked-up in your hair alage and they absorb any(n and p) that enter the water column,this making n and p undectable

that said try and crank your skimmer up or just clean it
when mine gets nasty after 3 or so months i tear it down and soak it in vinager.

Or when i see cyano i crank up (or heavily wet skim)
to collect all the bacteria that is free floating in the water column

i believe by adding more bacteria all you are doing is allowing the new bacteria to absorb the nutrients from the dying bacteria before
cyano can (the same way cheato works) so you are not fixing the problem
just combating the symtem (sry for spelling)
 
the cyano from what i believe and im no expert
is dying bacteria that did not make it to your skimmer collection cup
this bacteria turns back in to nutrents and carbon
which the cyano is fueling off of!
Click to expand...

i wrote this wrong so here is the correction

what is causing the cyano from what i believe and im no expert
is dying bacteria that did not make it to your skimmer collection cup
this bacteria turns back in to nutrents and carbon
which the cyano is fueling off of!
 
same problem. Every since I got rid of my fudge with macro and started bio. Im getting algae everywhere. Cyno, Red Hai, n soem green hairy crap on my sandbed.
 
So I know this thread is two years old but I'm curious about the answers here. I'm currently running about 250 ml of Warner marine biopellets and I'm having an issue with cyano. I went through some changes in my nutrient export process and things got a bit out of hand. Well the biopellets are doing well and the HA is slowly going away but now I'm dealing with cyano. Any ideas about how to deal the cyano without having HA go nuts again?
 
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