vodka on low nitrate high phosphate

half5.0

New member
I have been seriously condidering dosing vodka on my 75 mixed reef, as I have been battling the horrible red slime for quite some time. I used to run tap water but recently switched to rodi with a tds of 1ppm. My main reason for swithing was the high phospahte in the tap water. Will doing vodka work without alot of nitrates, mine are showing 0 on an api kit so i guess it could be higer. I have the vodka and a surenge and Im ready to go but im not sure thats the way to go. Any thoughts or comments are apprectiate. Oh and by the way Im also running phosban and doing 5 gallon weekly water changes.

Thanks

Matt
 
What level is your phosphate at? It sounds like you need to either increase the amount of phosban and/or change it more often to get your phosphate level down below 0.03.

If your nitrate is fine, then it sounds like you do not need to dose vodak. If they are high, then dosing vodka will help to bring the nitrate down.

Red slime is cyanobacteria in most cases. Fighting bacterial problems is more difficult than algae type problems, because cyanobacteria are able to grab their needed phosphate & nitrogen directly from organic sources. Reducing your nitrate and phosphate levels to zero when using standard hobby grade test kits will help though.

Here is a copy of what Boomer recommends when fighting a cyanobacteria:

"Some added thoughts from over the years from many

The only known fish to eat Cyano is Amblygobius stethophthalmus and it needs to be the real one not its close relative that is often Mis-ID with it.

A 2- 3 month scheme

1. Water changes. 25% weekly.

2. Bare bottom refugium only for cheato nutrient export and not for critters.

3. Siphon, sump, refugium, etc. every week during water change and clean all filter you have.

4. Blow off all the Cyano and settled stuff you can so it can be siphoned off.

5. Clean out skimmer and cup every week.

6. Carbon, 1 cup per 50 gallons / 2 wks. Try to use ROX

7. GFO -HC , change every month.

8. Purigen, every month

9. Soak frozen food in RO/DI and discard water before use. This is especially true for brine shrimp. Matter of fact I use to pour off the water, and then fill it back up, to repeat it until there was only whole brine shrimp in the container.

10. Read what is in the food and look for things low in phosphates.

11. Keep the pH in the very low 8's or very high 7's, as Cyano will out compete other algae's in higher pH water.

12. The # 1 limiting nutrient for Cyano is N, not P based on studies in various microbiology texts.

13. During these water changes and blowing stuff off and siphoning it up run a Diatom filter with a second cake of PAC (Powdered activated carbon)."

14. Increase water flow where Cyano are growing, as they do not like high currents.

15. Shutting of all lights, almost total darkness for 48 hr. every few days.

Last resort is Chemi-Clean by Boyd.

99.9 % of the time if nothing eats it and it looks like yours it is Cyano.
 
So if i have cyano, then I have nitrates? Maybe I should try another test kit. does Amblygobius stethophthalmus have a common name, do they eat anything besides cyano?
 
Another way we are researching is...


Use only actinic lights at 420 nm for 14 days...

We have tried with success the above method against a several infestation of cyano....
 
therealfatman please...
Have you tried this method against dinoflagellates with success?
I have not used it against dinoflaellates, but have found it effective against hair algae, cyano and byropsis.

Have you noticed any bad side effect in Corals Health?
I have at times noticed an improvement in attachment of frags and recovery from physical damage with actinic exclusive lighting. I find it is pretty hard to judge an improvement in growth of SPS a short period of time such as three weeks. I have noticed improved colorration in some corals but I see so much change in coral colors for so many different reasons I have a hard time giving credit just one cause.

How did you decide to make treatment for 3 weeks?
Just trial and error over a period of years with many different tank systems.

Did you decide it watching your tank and seeing 2 weeks was not enough?
Yes, after trying two weeks in many different tanks for differing nuisance alage. Shorter periods would likely be as effective if I did more physical claening in conjunction with the deprived lighting, bt in genaeral with mild to medium infestations I do no physical algae removal.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1648223
 
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