Wardworld's "Last Tank Ever" 180 Build

[wardworld]

History
As the title suggests, my wife kindly agreed to "one more tank." I currently have 2 reef tanks (120 and 90 gallons) as well as a 55 gal w/ live rock set up. My goal is to combine them into one "last tank ever "
I purchases a used Oceanic 210, but it's overall length (7') was too much for the room it's going in so I picked up a used/new glasscages 180 (6') w/ a stand. I'll be selling the 210 (or keeping it for the next "last tank ever ")
The Plan
I plan to put the 180 into my TV room on a wall that backs up to a screened area (14' x 10') outside. This will be the "fish room" (more like the fish patio). I will then put a hole in the TV room wall to run all electronics and plumbing. The goal is to have a silent tank in the TV room w/ no sump underneath the stand. I'm using schedule 80 for the under-tank plumbing and will run it into a 100 gal Rubbermaid stock tank, which is my sump. I plan on using the "Herbie" overflow method which limits the drainage by a gate valve and uses the returns as emergency drains - see here: Herbie Overflow
The Equipment
Tank: Glasscages 180 w/ dual overflows (1 1/2" drains / 3/4" returns).
Skimmer: ReeFlo Orca 200
Return Pump: ReeFlo Snapper
Water Movement: Planning on a Supersquirt for the return (may not use this). I have 2 VorTechs (MP40W) for the tank.
Sump: Rubbermaid 100 gal stock tank
Lights: 2 Light Racks (build pics to follow) w/ 7 lamps each: 36" - 39w T5 lamps. Each rack will be independent of the other for ease of movement for tank maintenance.
Stocking List
Much of this is still TBA, however I have the following already:
Tangs
Powder Blue, Regal, Zebra, Naso, Yellow
Other Fish
Canary Wrasse, Flame Hawkfish
2 pair (yes, 4 fish total) of mated clowns - I'm hoping 180 gal is enough room for them.
Black Widow Goby (that's what I was told it was called)
Niger Trigger

I'll post pics soon...next on the to-do list is:
1. Finish second light rack
2. paint back of tank black (my other two are blue)
3. work on fishroom drainage and final lay-out.
4. run water lines to fishroom

 

[forddna]

Is that 84x24x24 on that 210? If you decide to sell it, please let me know.

 

[mflamb]

Daryl, let's see some pics!!! I would skip the super squirt and run the return direct to the tank. I also would advise against painting the back of the reef tank. Instead get a piece of black acrylic cut to fit against the back of the tank. Check this out.
http://liquid-medium.com/1_2/backgrounds.htm
James Fatherree, the author/tester spoke at a TBRC meeting recently about the subject, and most of us were quite shocked. I'm doing the blue acrylic panels for my new 300.
Otherwise, two thumbs up!!!

 

[buccard]

Tagging along...

 

[bkwudzjeep]

Woo-hoo!! You've done lots of planning....I can't wait to see this in action!!

 

[wardworld]

Mike, do you think the auto-tint type material would be better? The kind that you apply wet and then squeegee (there's a word you don't see in print everyday) dry????

 

[wardworld]

Nevermind....just read the article...apparently it should be taped on dry (like a tarp?). How are you adhering your plastic panels???

 

[mflamb]

I'm going to use cardboard to make a pattern and then cut 2 pieces of acrylic for each panel that I can attach to each panel that will hang from the top of the tank trim. Remember, mine is an in wall, so I can use something that doesn't have to be as aesthetically pleasing. I want the panels to be very easily removeable so I can clean the glass with a magnet regularly. Velcro might be a good choice.

 

[wardworld]

The Tank & Stand

The Tank & Stand

Here's a few pics of tank and stand. The stand was modified (by my father-in-law and his helpful assistant: my wife) by adding a 2x6 to the bottom to make it approx. 36" from the floor. It will be cosmetically changed to match some "mission style" furniture we have in the tank room. The tank is 6'x2'x2' and has 1 1/2" and 3/4" drilled holes in it.
The Stand

The Tank

Next: The Light Rack Build

 

[wardworld]

The Light Rack

The Light Rack

My goal is to have 2 light racks that are 2' x 3' in length. They will sit in the canopy which will have two halves that open independently of each other. That way I can lift one lid, move the light rack and work in that section of the tank while the other section is undisturbed AND provides light into the tank.
I will either:
A. suspend the rack from the canopy so that when I lift the lid, the rack moves up and out of the way OR
B. have the ledge of the rack rest on cleats on the inside of the canopy and then the rack can slide back and forth (and lift up out of the way).

The Build
I went to Lowes and bought aluminum angle iron (1" x 1/16") and cut a basic rectangular frame. The finished product is here:

Step 1
After cutting the lengths of angle iron, my plan was to use SS screws to connect the frame. Perhaps the smartest thing I did was buy this little $6 angle clamp that really helped make sure everything was square:

The finished corner joint:

Step 2
After connecting all four corners, I laid out all of the standoffs, measured the spacing between, marked the screw holes, and then drilled small pilot holes for the SS screws:

I then secured all the standoffs on the frame:

Step 3
I then planned my wiring so that each rack is controlled by 2 ballasts (4 lamps on one ballast / 3 on the other). I then studied the wiring diagram from the IceCap booklet and began wiring:

More wiring:

The completed, wired rack:

Step 4
Repeat above steps for Rack #2

 

[~sp0ok~]

nice work

 

[wardworld]

Thanks, I'll have to admit I was intimidated by the wiring at first, but a buddy (thanks Mark ) came over and cleared a few things up. From there it was just being meticulous about following the diagram.

 

[doubleduece]

Nice work on the rack and the wiring

I have something in the works similar to your lighting rack, except mine is 60" and I am incorperating drawer rollers for the rack to roll in and out.....


Keep up the good work..

 

[mflamb]

Nice work on the light rack!!!
What ballasts are you using?
Where will they be mounted?

 

[wardworld]

I'm using 4 IceCap 660s...I plan on running the plumbing and the wires through a hole in the back wall and then mounting the ballasts outside in the fishroom (probably on a piece of starboard).

 

[mflamb]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14026141#post14026141 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wardworld
I'm using 4 IceCap 660s...I plan on running the plumbing and the wires through a hole in the back wall and then mounting the ballasts outside in the fishroom (probably on a piece of starboard).

Cool, there are extension harnesses available for the 660. I use one on mine.
What bulbs are you going to use?

 

[wardworld]

I went ahead and purchased 4 extension harnesses.
For bulbs, I currently use the geismann lamps on my 90 and I've been pleased with them. It will probably go something like this (Front to Back)
Aquablue +
Pure Actinic
MidDay
Aquablue +
Actinic
MidDay
Pure Actinic

 

[wardworld]

Sump/Filter Sock Help Needed

Sump/Filter Sock Help Needed

I'm trying to come up with something to hold one (maybe two) filter socks in Rubbermaid 100 gal stock sump. If you look at the photo below, the yellow lines outline the area I'd like something to sit on to hold the socks (w/ holes cut in the middle). Any ideas on materials or design concepts???

 

[boydx6]

You could use PVC across the top and use some kind of hook to hold the sock loop thingy. I have a bungee cord that holds onto my sock and is attached to the underside of the stand. It is easy to remove and replace and the bungee cord keeps it above water.

 

[mflamb]

You could cut acrylic to the size and shape outlined in yellow and cut out the large yellow circles so you can use the socks with the rings made in them. You will need to use some bracing under the acrylic.