Water changes with a sump

bmitchell138

New member
I have a sump and I'm trying to figure out if my water change process could be made a little easier. Here's what I do:


1. Turn off pump and power heads and wait for the DT water level to drop and equalize in the sump. I have a mark for the water level at this point.

2. Vacuum sand bed (around 3 to 5 gallons).

3. Add new saltwater back to the DT to the mark from step one.

4. Kick on the return pump. Done.


Is there an easier way than this method?
 
Yes leave everything running, clean glass, vacuum sand, watch water doesn't get to low in sump, refill with fresh salt water, change socks if you have them.
 
I have a sump and I'm trying to figure out if my water change process could be made a little easier. Here's what I do:


1. Turn off pump and power heads and wait for the DT water level to drop and equalize in the sump. I have a mark for the water level at this point.

2. Vacuum sand bed (around 3 to 5 gallons).

3. Add new saltwater back to the DT to the mark from step one.

4. Kick on the return pump. Done.


Is there an easier way than this method?

Aside from drilling your tank to make it slightly more automated, or skipping the vacuuming stage, I think you're about average there.
 
depending on how fast you are and if the new water is ready to be poured in, you can drain the display and just let the motor run dry for a minute or two. Add the water to the sump and let the pump fill the tank back up. Most generally dont like to run the pump dry for fear of damaging so really the process you have is the most efficient for the setup you have.
 
depending on how fast you are and if the new water is ready to be poured in, you can drain the display and just let the motor run dry for a minute or two. Add the water to the sump and let the pump fill the tank back up. Most generally dont like to run the pump dry for fear of damaging so really the process you have is the most efficient for the setup you have.

I had actually considered this method but as you said I didn't want to let the pump run dry.
 
We had a tank at my last office and the maintenance crew would do it that way. never did like the clanking noises coming from the pump for that two minutes it was dry.
 
Almost the same when i change my 40 gallon but i leave pump running. My water just drops to the pump line for a min. Been doing this for years with no ill effect on my pump. Pump is never dry, just some slurping noise.
 
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll leave the power on for a time or two and see how it goes. I'd much rather add the new water to the sump than directly to the DT.
 
There is no way I could let my return run dry but my tank is bit larger. I have a 125 with a 20 sump. Barely big enough for the equipment. The return pump compartment only holds maybe 3 or 4 gallons. In my NSW mixing barrel I mix 12 gallons of water. I shut my pump down and use a bucket with measuring marks to drain out 11.5 gallons. I use a small pump in my mixing barrel to transfer the NSW back in to the sump. The little pump can't keep up with the return so I have to cycle it maybe 3 or four times. Over complicated but it works for me.


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Your process seems good. The important part is to have a routine that works for you and helps you do WC regularly.
Depending on which tank needs the most attention that week, a WC takes me anywhere from 10 to 40 minutes per tank.

Personally, I would not let the pumps run dry. If your sump can't handle the back flow from your display with the pumps off, you have a disaster waiting to happen.

The vacuum on my return lines is broken at the same time the water level reaches the bottom of the overflow teeth. This is my zero mark.
I have tick marks on the back corners of my tanks at 5 gallon intervals from that zero point to 30 gallons to make draining the correct amount of water easier.
Draining into bucket isn't practical with 20 - 30 gallon WC's.

Here's my process:
1. Turn off pumps and let display level out.
2. Do any vacuuming, rock blasting, algae removal.
3. Drain the water, gathering as much detritus as possible.
4. Refill to the zero mark.
5. Turn pumps back on and verify all overflows, drains and power heads are functioning correctly.

Happy Reefing!
 
i cut the pumps too but mostly out of fear of running the water level past my bubble trap and causing the return to empty the chamber.
the bigger concern i have is that i could easily focus all my cleaning efforts on just my sump. i need a better system for removing the junk that collects in the sump.
 
I have two buckets / small brute cans. Both have a mark for 10 gallons. One bucket is where I mix the salt. The other is what I drain into when 2 gallons is drained I turn return pump off then I finish draining until 10 gallon mark is hit. Then I take the other can which has 10 gallons of saltwater pre made and add it back into sump. I do this every weekend and it takes me 20 to 40 minutes which includes changing a sock and emptying the skimmer.
 
. If your sump can't handle the back flow from your display with the pumps off, you have a disaster waiting to happen.

!


Not sure if that was meant for me. My sump does have full back flow capacity. However, since I use a crappy little MJ pump to transfer the new water in, I send it to the sump as it isn't really powerful enough to get it to the display.



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Not sure if that was meant for me. My sump does have full back flow capacity. However, since I use a crappy little MJ pump to transfer the new water in, I send it to the sump as it isn't really powerful enough to get it to the display.

Not directed at you. Just wanted to be clear too all that if turning off your pumps caused the sump to over flow, you were on borrowed time.
 
Everyone does it a bit different. I have a 45 gallon with 20 gallon sump that only runs 10 gallons through it so I have lots of room. Here is what I do.

I mix exactly 3.5 gallons of new water (have a mark in the bucket)
Drain exactly 3.5 gallons of old water (have a mark in another bucket)

1. turn off return pump
2. add new water to sump
3. vacuum out old water
4. turn on return pump

Done.

I timed one a few weeks ago and it took 8 minutes. I use those 5 gallon clear cube containers with handles on it so it makes it easy to see the marks and carry them and no mess. I draw a line all the way around the container with a permanent marker.

I agree that whatever will make it helpful to do a change consistently.
 
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