Water parameters
- Thread starter neoh74
- Start date
yellow_tang2009
DFWMAS Member
Are you adding anything now?
This link will help you chose a salt that better matches your intended alk cal and mag levels. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1714505
Just an FYI not all "reef" salt have high levels and not all "regular" salt will have low alk either. I use Tropic Marin Pro Reef as my salt of choice as it mixes to the same parameters as I maintain in my system.
Just an FYI not all "reef" salt have high levels and not all "regular" salt will have low alk either. I use Tropic Marin Pro Reef as my salt of choice as it mixes to the same parameters as I maintain in my system.
mcgyvr
New member
huh? Why?
While those levels are higher than recommended ranges there is NO reason to switch salts/do water changes based on that...
A water change will help your phosphate levels..
I'd suggest you save the money you would have spent on salt and pick up a beginners guide/book to marine/saltwater tanks.. Or spend a few hours learning about the basics
Or provide us more information on your current system/equipment/tank inhabitants and your future plans,etc...
Sounds like you have NO clue what you are doing right now and certainly aren't asking the right questions..
I don't really recommend making water changes just to bring down the calcium and alkalinity, but I do recommend changing salts to one lower in alkalinity and calcium for all future water changes. At a minimum his high calcium levels are going to cause excessive calcium deposits on his pump impellers and the high alkalinity will have a tendency to burn coral tips. I would also be surprised if he isn't getting some calcium precipitation in the tank and on the glass.
neoh74
New member
Mcgyvr, you are right...that is why this is called the "new to the hobby" section. I have read a ton, but i was not sure about dosing and how it works. Now I understand. Im not sure if anyone . has explained the basics of this forum to you, but let me try to help. More advanced members come here to help noobs like me. Not ridicule and put them down, but actually give them real advice. In turn when they become more advanced they help others as well. EVERYONE has to start somewhere. I guess in this case I guess I would just be looking for a little understanding from Mr. Hufter.
neoh74
New member
My initial post was me not totally understanding phosphates. after some helpful information from some members (and not others)I was thinking the water change to bring down the phosphates (plus im at week 3 without one). I would use a non reef salt for this water change giving me the effect of brining down calcium and alk a little. I am backing off the feeding also to help with phosphates. 100 gal established tank,2 clowns and a kole tang. Nirates have spike up to about 25 but again i believe that to be overfeeding. I read that clowns like to be fed everyday and thats what I believe is causing the issue.
As I am figuring out there are so many different flavors of what they believe is the "right" way it is mind blowing!
As I am figuring out there are so many different flavors of what they believe is the "right" way it is mind blowing!
mcgyvr
New member
While you may be correct the OP didn't give sufficient information for me to make that call or even suggest that..
Now we know they don't have corals but maybe they plan to in the future. If so then maybe the salt (maybe reef crystals) will be just fine as it can help when you have corals that are consuming cal/alk..
Maybe they have purchased a bunch of the salt already.. I see no point in wasting it or even switching based on the information provided so far..
Last edited:
Hey,I was new a cpl years ago and have had my share of responses from people,that really angered me,in fact if it weren't for a col other more experienced refers on here I would have quit the forum due to what I call the superiority complex that some giving advise on here have,or have had with me,so hang in there and ignore those who bring you down instead of helping you,I never understood why people respond to newbies like that,and I'm not referring to anyone here in particular,but unfortunately it happens,just do your research ask questions and weed out the holier than thou,and you'll be fine,good luck!
Half Vaped
New member
Neoh74, what are you using to measure your salinity? If you're not using a refractometer, get one and make sure to calibrate it before use. SG being too high can give you false high Ca/Alk readings. Do not trust hydrometers with the floating bob thing--those can be wildly inaccurate.
Since you listed you alkalinity as "12" instead of "11.8" or something, is it safe to assume you're using an API test kit? I found API to be decent, but can be off by +/- 40 ppm on Ca and +/- 2 dKH on Alk, depending on how you interpret the colors. I get more consistent and precise results using my Red Sea test kit.
Have you learned about carbon dosing? I use NOPOX to control NO3/PO4. It works great and my only regret is not using it when I first started up my tank. Best to nip it in the bud before you have any out-of-control algae issues.
Since you listed you alkalinity as "12" instead of "11.8" or something, is it safe to assume you're using an API test kit? I found API to be decent, but can be off by +/- 40 ppm on Ca and +/- 2 dKH on Alk, depending on how you interpret the colors. I get more consistent and precise results using my Red Sea test kit.
Have you learned about carbon dosing? I use NOPOX to control NO3/PO4. It works great and my only regret is not using it when I first started up my tank. Best to nip it in the bud before you have any out-of-control algae issues.
Half Vaped
New member
The problem is if you're measuring any PO4, it's a good indication that the rocks may have absorbed a lot of it and is slowly leaching them out, possibly contributing to algae growth. I try to keep it below 0.1 ppm.
I didn't start dosing NOPOX until maybe 8 - 10 months after starting my tank. NO3 was maybe 30 and PO4 was over 1. NO3 came down fairly quick but it took nearly a year before I got PO4 to stay below 0.1. I'm sure the rocks were leaching out the PO4 that accumulated before I started dosing, causing GHA and other algae to continue growing.
That's good to know. I have a lot of live rock and it's been a struggle to get phosphate to stay down. I have had it as low as .25 and thought that was great, but then it went back up to 1 with API kit. I got a Red Sea and it's showing 1.4 with that. Do you use the recommended dosage for NOPOX? I have a 70 gal so I use the dosage for 50 gal of water. I'm considering upping the dosage by maybe 50%.
Half Vaped
New member
My current daily dose is 30 ml for my 150G, which I think is on the high side, haven't read the NOPOX manual in forever. I aim for NO3 ~1 pppm and PO4 ~0.1 ppm to keep the corals and macros fed.
To drop PO4, you should dose the max you can, while still getting measurable NO3. Do not let NO3 measure zero!
A lot of other guys recommend adding GFO to reduce just the PO4 if you have a NO3/PO4 imbalance. I didn't want to add any more equipment or anything, so I just waited it out and let the NOPOX take care of it.
