Water parameters

[Sust09]

So, I'm obviously new to the saltwater hobby (recently took the plunge about 3 weeks ago) and I'm cycling my tank. My tank is a 90g with a sump,skimmer etc. I started with about 20lbs of LR, 40lbs of dry rock, 40lbs of arag alive, 20lbs of dry sand, and a bottle of dr.tims one and only. I was told by my LFS I could add a pair of clowns to start, so I did. Today is day 10 and my water parameters are as follows: .25ppm ammonia- 2ppm nitrites- 5-10ppm nitrates and PH ~8. Am I headed in the right direction? I'm a little nervous about the nitrites because they've been steady for a couple days.

Thanks in advance for any and all help

 

[bshow24]

Always remember, patience in this hobby is best. Also, don't believe everything your LFS says.

Seems like you are on your way through the cycle. The process can take a bit of time, but your tank isn't fully cycled until your ammonia and nitrites both read zero. Although some will say it's okay to add fish during a cycle, it's not really healthy for them. If I were you, I'd take the clowns and put them in a holding tank (could be a 5 gallon bucket with heater and power head) where you can do consistent water changes and keep the ammonia/nitrites at 0. Those are poison for fish.

 

[mcgyvr]

Yep... Your tank is "Cycling".. Most do not recommend cycling with a live creature and certainly not a more expensive one like clownfish as what you are doing is basically exposing them to a toxic environment.. Imagine you put into a room where every breath you take burns your lungs.. Others don't care as its just a fish...

I too would caution you to not blindly follow your LFS as that IMO is "strike one" against them.. Its clear that they may be more interested in selling you things vs leading you down the proper path to success..

As stated once your ammonia and nitrite levels drop back to zero your tank is considered cycled and at that time you typically perform water changes to drop nitrates down to a reasonable level. With a fish only tank nitrate levels aren't too important but most still strive for low nitrate levels (2-5 ppm is just fine)..
Then you continue water changes (something like 20% every 2 weeks) to maintain proper water parameters (replenish whats consumed) and to help export (dilute) nitrates/dissolved organics,etc...

 

[Sust09]

Thank you both for your help! It seems like in the beginning for every article you read theres another that says the exact opposite. I appreciate you guys responding. I'll definitely pull them out. I dont want them to be harmed in this process.

 

[mcgyvr]

Thank you both for your help! It seems like in the beginning for every article you read theres another that says the exact opposite. I appreciate you guys responding. I'll definitely pull them out. I dont want them to be harmed in this process.

Like anything else on the internet you need to gather your knowledge from multiple sources and never really rely on one..

The process of cycling with a fish has been done for years and will continue to happen.. Often thats done with a small damsel (cheap) fish and done with clean dry rock and sand and let the only source of ammonia come from the fish so as not to overwhelm the system and the fish..
When using live sand specifically there is often quite a bit of "dead" in that from sitting on a shelf and not kept submerged.. That death/decaying matter increases the ammonia amounts higher than a fish by itself would thus causing elevated levels/higher toxicity issues..

As you stated using some live rock and are likely using an API test kit which is notorious for reporting low levels of ammonia even when others don't as long as your ammonia levels don't rise above that you "might" be able to keep the fish in there without issue.. But if ammonia levels continue to rise it would be best to remove them if you care about their well-being..