water question for first LPS

[thebestdj07]

i just bought a torch and hammer coral. the hammer is doing good still. the torch was fine yesterday when i had him in there. then this morning he didnt want to seem to open as much as he was. i did some reading and saw they need calcium

i went and got a test kit for it. upon the test i was not able to get my water to turn back to clear. so i assume i do not have enough calcium in the tank to even register. what is the ideal #?


also my ph and alk are a little low. below the ideal spot on my chart but not by much.

i got some KALK+2 to mix in my tank. is that the right stuff? it had me mix 1 tsp per gallon and then begin the dose.

 

[staindsoul]

You need to read this: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

It is under the reef chemsitry in general forums. Under archives a sticky at the top.

Which test kit?

Dont dose anything that you dont have and know how to properly use a kit for. Also everyone will want to know what what size tank, how old, what equipment and exactly what your water parameters are too better help you out. it's easier on you if you put most of the stats in your signature.

 

[thebestdj07]

the tank is a 36 gal, cycled. it has been setup for little over 1mo now. running a penguin 350 filter. tank temp is 78. aquatic life 4bulb t5 ho. small circulation pump. the tank has a cleaning crew and a clown also.


nitrate 20ppm
nitrite 0ppm
alk 90-100ppm
ph 7.6-7.8

 

[JPerkins2]

I would do a 10 gallon water change but slowly if possible, maybe 2 five gallon changes.

Then I would do it again the next day.

Your nitrates are high. I don't think you have cycled yet fully for anything that isn't really really hardy. If you can, take the LPS back to the store for safekeeping until you get your tank ready.

You want your nitrates to be less than 2 and certainly less than 20.

I can assure you your calcium isn't too low to register if the tank has only been running a month. It's basically not ready in my opinion.

Do the water changes, take lps back to store if you can, do more water changes again a day or 2 later.

Ideally you want to stay away from the harder species until 6 months or so, a seasoned tank (and owner).

 

[staindsoul]

torches are more sensitve from what i have read. what size powerhead? are the corals getting hit directly? how long are you running your lights? what is your phosphates?

 

[thebestdj07]

no not directly just so they have moderate flow over them. its a Aqueon Circulation Pump 500 witch seems to be plenty strong enough.

my lights are on

white- 830am-730pm (10k- 420/460)
blue- 12pm-10pm (Purple- 420/460)
night (led)- 10-6am

not sure on the phosphates don't have a test kit for them yet.

I did a 5gal water change today.

witch dropped my salt level from 1.024 to 1.021.

nitrate 20ppm witch on my chart shows ok.
nitrite 0
alk 180ppm so that's up now in the ideal on my chart.
ph 7.4


ammonia is up today though. .25 on the chart. should i get some ammonia reducer?

 

[staindsoul]

Ammonia should be 0. When did you add the cuc and clown?

When you do a water change your salinities should match! So it is easier on the corals and fish. Do you have a hydrometer (swingarm) or a refractometer?

Edit: Your light periods seem long also.

 

[thebestdj07]

yes i know it should match. my levels were a little high so i just did 5gal without salt witch brought it down to the level i posted. the other 5 gallons i got mixed at .023. was my technique wrong?

also what would you recommend on the lights?

i think the ammonia spike might have been from this pink tiped anemone that ended up dieing the other day. the day i put that in was when my torch didnt seem happy. they were on other sides of the tank. but my power head was on the side of the anemone. i heard they give out some toxin?

 

[thebestdj07]

oh and i added the clown and coral on tuesday

 

[staindsoul]

This is on acclimation, but it explains what is up with changing salinity. Going from 1.024 to 1.021 is a .003 change very quickly. Slow as possible is best, and 1.024 isn't high, majority run at 1.026. I run at that also.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1166124

Like I said the light period "seems" long. It may not be, I would check in reef discussion or new to hobby.

You really should check out stickies in new to hobby, reef chemsitry and reef discussion. It will help avoid a lot of headaches and money lost. It seems like your making a lot of errors. An anemone is for a established tank, a lot longer than a month. I am only saying this because it will HELP!

 

[karlyhui]

I have a few torches and the ammonia needs to be 0..but don't too much water change all at once. Salinity needs to be 1.024 to 1.026. Let everything settle down, Nitrates at 20 is fine, I have Nitrates at 50 and heads can't stop growing.

Any kind of lights will do, as long as is Reef lights, I used 4 t5 bulbs on my 40 gallon breeder but I think 3 will do.

 

[thebestdj07]

This is on acclimation, but it explains what is up with changing salinity. Going from 1.024 to 1.021 is a .003 change very quickly. Slow as possible is best, and 1.024 isn't high, majority run at 1.026. I run at that also.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1166124

Like I said the light period "seems" long. It may not be, I would check in reef discussion or new to hobby.

You really should check out stickies in new to hobby, reef chemsitry and reef discussion. It will help avoid a lot of headaches and money lost. It seems like your making a lot of errors. An anemone is for a established tank, a lot longer than a month. I am only saying this because it will HELP!

thanks, just everyone is telling me different things. its like arghhh. all the stores in town say different things.

 

[staindsoul]

i have been checking everything lfs has been saying against these guys here. Lfs are there to make money, these guys are here to make great tanks for themselves.