Weld On #16 questions

[greenstarman]

For those who have built their own sumps and used #16 how big of a gap can this repair? I have a gap in a corner approx .050" wide and curious if this will patch that up.

 

[smjtkj]

If you are not saying 1/2 an inch then yes 16 would do the trick.
.050 is not a problem.

 

[greenstarman]

Thanks... and yes approx fifty thousanths..

 

[prugs]

Good luck with the weldon 16. Expect alot of shrinkage.
Weldon 40 would be my choice.

 

[greenstarman]

Even on a .050" gap? Also i noticed it was a 2 part epoxy will it dry clear?

Thanks

 

[Acrylics]

#40 is not an epoxy really but rather an actual acrylic resin (monomer & catalyst) that dries clear. Might have a slightly different hue than some brands - but pretty clear. I'd have to agree that 40 would be preferred over 16 though may be difficult to get sometimes.

HTH,
James

 

[greenstarman]

I have been going to Ridout Plastics. So it will bond with surounding acrylic and yet dry as if it were acrylic? If so sounds like thats what I need.

Thanks all.

 

[Acrylics]

Yep, 40 is acrylic so should work fine and shouldn't take much to do it either

James

 

[Silencer]

What do you guys think of #3? I got a can of it to use for gluing my skimmer body tubes to the flanges (will put tube on circle cutout, glue, then pattern route out the inside of the flange). Never done it before so I'm not sure how hard it is.

 

[greenstarman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7861213#post7861213 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
Yep, 40 is acrylic so should work fine and shouldn't take much to do it either

James

I bought a 65 guage syringe to apply this. Also will I be alright to apply this to the entire inside corners just to be safe, or should this be used sparingly.

Thanks.

 

[Acrylics]

Silencer,

Using WO #3 is pretty easy but, it was recently reformulated and I haven't heard too many good things about the new formulation from various fabricators. I'd advise practicing first to see how it goes.

Greenstarman,
You can do this for the entire joint but #40 (or re-application of any solvent) *can* cause crazing in extruded material, not sure what material you used - just an FYI
BTW, not at all saying it *will* craze - just that I've seen it before so be careful with it.

HTH,
James

 

[greenstarman]

The only reason I ask is that I have one area that bubbled quite a bit. And just to play it safe thats why I was going to run a bead around the inside. But now that you mention that maybe I won't try it. Will the bubbles get worse over a period of time in your opinion...

Here's my first sump. Click on pic for larger.

 

[stugray]

Be careful with the #16.

I thought it should be great for forming a fillet wherever my #4 joints werent perfect.

I filled the joints and tilted it to fill the joint perfectly & it looked great

until it dried.... it cause so many bubbles that I wish I hadnt done it.

Ive tried that trick two times with the same results, so be careful filling too large of a gap.

I have also used the #40 to fill large gaps, and it worked perfectly. I even formed a new corner for a sump that had broken completely off & the #40 formed a perfect new corner with great bonding & no bubbles

Stu

 

[greenstarman]

I was planning on using the #40 to form a fillet, but when ACRYLICS mentioned that it could cause extruded to craze I may only try for the small .050" gap that I have. When I bought the acrylic I didn't even put two and two together. I had my first sheet of 24x48 sheet cut and noticed it said Acrylite FF. I was ticked. Cause I had the Plastics guy tell me that he would call his supplier and he told me it was cast. But I do plan on bracing the top as much as I can. It just makes me nervous to add water to it..