what could be going on here? (water specs inside)

latazyo

New member
ok, so I lost my favorite fish sometime last night (the longnose hawk)

I cant find a body (but we know how those just disappear) and he was not a jumper (I checked)

also remember how my superman moti danae is deteriorating

the clues:

ammonia, nitrite, nitrate = 0
total alkalinity = 3.5
pH = 8.05
temp = 82.8 F

I run my fuge on reverse light schedule, there is a pretty decent sized ball of chaeto in there (considering the size of my system)

I have just recently started to get a red cyano on my sand bed

regular hair algae is growing on my glass faster than normal

I dont have a test for phosphates, so I cant check that

the tests I noted are all of the tests I have

so we have low pH, cyano, dead fish, dying monti, low alkalinity, other than that nothing else has changed

thanks if anyone can offer any suggestions
 
Check the level of your Phosphate. But I would not think that would have anything to do with the fish death.
 
do you think that running the fuge on reverse schedule has anythign to do with the pH problem?

if 8.2 is normal pH, then 8.05 is extremely acidic compared to normal, remember a .1 difference in pH is actually a 10x difference in H+ concentration

how do I raise the pH and why would it be so damn low?

shoudl I run the fuge 24/7 to use up more CO2?

my chaeto ball is bigger than a basketball and I have a pretty small system
 
Do you have starfish?

Buffer would raise your ph

alk additive will bring up your alk levels

Check your phosphate level

Have you changed salt or started on a new batch?

change your light schedule back

John
 
no starfish

I just started a new bucket of salt, but its the same brand as before

I havent changed my light schedule at all, just inquiring about 24/7

I just checked the calibration of my refractometer and its perfect, so hm...
 
If you weren't having these issues before the new batch of salt . I would run some tests on the new salt batch.

It maybe the same brand but a bad batch .

John
 
yes mix it the salinity you use . Then run some tests . You should also run a PO4 test on the water before you mix the salt so you have a base line to start from .

John
 
One thing to check is if anything is rusting...powerheads would be the first place to look. Rust won't kill fish but it can cause algae increases and damage corals. GenX pumps have been reported to have an exposed pc. of metal that didn't get covered in epoxy.
 
thanks for the suggestion Jack, I'll do that shortly

I have 1 mj, 1 seio, 1 sedra, and 1 mag in the tank

I just cleaned my chaeto ball to get any detritus out of it and it turned the water in the bucket yellow
 
How big of an eater was your hawkfish. They are a pretty finiky fish until you get them acclimated to tank life and a feeding schedule. Could it have died of starvation and you are just trying to put all these cases to one issue.
 
the hawkfish ate everytime I fed, however I was always unsure of hte amount

I feed 1 cube of mysis everyday (sometimes every other day) and I have 3 fish

is that enough? it seems like so much food, but the pieces are all tiny

none of the fish look like they are starving (with that caved in stomach)

but you are right, this is kind of a catch-all, what the hell is going on thread

I have that deteriorating monti and a dead (MIA, assumed dead) fish
 
any steel hose clamps on the system? I would check really hard for metal in the system...other than doing a lot of water changes...major ones I don't know what to look for other than that.
 
nope, I only use cable ties

I havent checked the pumps yet, because Im studying microbiology (obvious lie) but I will check when I finish typing up this study guide

EDIT: I have some test kits in my cart at thereefstop.com

I have calcium and alkalinity in the cart so far, the phosphates test is sold out, however I have been told that phosphate tests are useless because you already know if you have phosphates (algae bloom)....would you agree or disagree with that statement?

also, are those the right tests I should be buying first? these are salifert brand tests, I already have seachem brand pH, ammonia, alk (but am buying the salifert anyways), nitrite, nitrate

so yeah, any suggestions on the test kits is appreciated
 
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What are the other fish you have? My opinion that isn't enough unless you can tell there is an abundance of natural foods that cycle through the tank. Caved in stomach is way passed starvation don't use that as an indication. Was the fish hitting the food and not taking it. I always judge the health of my fish when they are eating.

note: check your cable/zip ties. most of the ones I have seen even though plastic, have a "internal" metal clip locking the tie in place.
 
when I check the pumps I'll check the cable ties (although I dont think I have any submerged, but I'll still check)

I think I am going to buy some formula 1 and feed that along with my mysis (which Im damn near out of anyways)

is there a better food I should buy (since I have 3 cubes left)

my other fish are skunk clownfish, yellow watchman goby, never ever has there been any aggression in the tank
 
planet reef has rod's food. i've only heard good things about. I want to try it, but I currently have brine, mysis, krill, dry, cyclopeeze, and nori. So I think they're spoiled already.

Anyways, here's my suggestion:

Do you run carbon or phosban? If so, change them maybe if they're getting old. When I leave mine in the reactors for too long things start getting mopy looking in the tank.

That's all I got.
 
I run neither

I'll check out rod's food

shouldnt I find out if I need a phosban reactor before running one, or is it usually just assumed that everyone has phosphate troubles?
 
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