What exactly is a hybrid overflow?

[Cloudburst2000]

Is this where the glass of the actual display tank is drilled with slits so the actual overflow is outside the tank? If so, is this as safe an option as a regular overflow? I am considering ordering a rimless aquarium from Reef Savvy and they give the option of a hybrid overflow versus regular overflow. Which is better and safer?

I am also considering a few aquarium dimensions all around 55ish gallons. I'd really ideally like a 36" long aquarium but I'm not sure it will be feasible for this aquarium. If I can do 36", I'd like either a 36"Lx20"Wx18"H or 36"Lx22"Wx16.5"H. We are considering placing the aquarium in a nook in the wall. If we do this, the 36"L will be too long as the nook is only about 35" and I'd ideally like a little space on each side. If this is where we end up placing the aquarium, then the aquarium dimensions would probably be something like 31"Lx24"Wx17"H. Which dimensions do you people like best?

 

[dkeller_nc]

A couple of comments (just my opinion). A hybrid overflow with the box attached to the back wall of the aquarium will put stress on the back glass if for no other reason than hanging something heavy. But whether this will matter depends on the actual design of the aquarium and its inherent safety factor.

One consideration you may wish to give to the length of the tank is that many fixtures and accessories are built to standard dimensions - that is, 24" long, 36" long, 48" long, etc.... So if you build to a dimension other than these, standard accessories may not be adaptable to your tank.

 

[Cloudburst2000]

A couple of comments (just my opinion). A hybrid overflow with the box attached to the back wall of the aquarium will put stress on the back glass if for no other reason than hanging something heavy. But whether this will matter depends on the actual design of the aquarium and its inherent safety factor.

One consideration you may wish to give to the length of the tank is that many fixtures and accessories are built to standard dimensions - that is, 24" long, 36" long, 48" long, etc.... So if you build to a dimension other than these, standard accessories may not be adaptable to your tank.

I am not too worried about the hybrid overflow with Reef Savvy. They have a stellar safety rating which is why their tanks are on the pricey side.

I plan on doing LEDs on this tank so I think I can get away with 30" long if I raise the fixture up a bit. I'm just not sure if I should go with the longer tank that is less deep or the shorter tank with more depth.

 

[dkeller_nc]

Well, your initial post asked if a hybrid, out-of-tank overflow box was less safe than an in-tank one. By definition, it's less safe (puts more rotational force on the back glass). But as you say, "less safe" may not turn into "catastrophe" depending on how sturdy the tank and/or bracing is.

What I meant about tank length is that there are many LED & LED/hybrid fixtures that are specifically designed to fit standard tank lengths, though some offer a degree of adjustability. This doesn't apply to modular LED fixtures, such as Radions and AI Vega/Sols, but I tend to want to buy equipment that will not only work with my current set-up, but will fit standard designs a few years in the future.

One example I can give you is a 90 gallon tank that is currently setting dry in my basement. This tank was a reef from 1992-1996, but I am thinking of ressurrecting it because it has no brace over the center, which is dang near unfindable in current, standard designs. But I am very glad this tank is the standard 48" long - it gives me lots of flexibility for changing the fixture out from T12/MH to something a little more modern.

 

[Cloudburst2000]

I was really meaning safety more in terms of getting clogged, fish getting into the overflow, etc. I think Reef Savvy overbuilds their tanks (which is a good thing) so not really worried about it cracking the tank.

And many LEDs can be raised or lowered to give more coverage. The LEDs in many units are so strong people often don't run them at max so raising it a few inches to extend coverage wouldn't hurt. Can just run lights closer to 100%. I'm just curious if people think more length or more depth is better.

 

[dkeller_nc]

Ah - I see. I rather doubt it would make any difference whatsoever whether the overflow is an in-tank wall mount box, an out-of-tank box, or an in-tank, "traditional" overflow drilled through the bottom of the tank as far as risk of getting a snail/algae/fish clog.

What I meant about the tank length and accessories has to do with full-length fixtures, such as the ATI powermodule, Pacific Sun LED/T5 hybrids, Maxspect Razor, etc... If the tank is an odd length instead of multiples of 12", some fixtures may not set on the tank rim as designed and may have to be "rigged". Obviously, this doesn't apply to modular LEDs or fixtures hung from the ceiling.

Personally speaking, I'd go from more space back-to-front if the coral is your main thing, or length if fish are your main thing. Longer tanks give active fish a lot more swimming room, and potentially more sapce to carve out territories. Front-to-back depth gives a lot more flexibility with aquascaping and allows one to avoid the "two mountain" layout that are so often seen on tank build threads.

 

[rovster]

What Felix means by a hybrid overflow, is that he makes a traditional glass overflow box, and then has a custom acrylic cover. The cover has the "teeth" and fits into the overflow box. Let me see if I can dig up a picture for you. I have a reef savvy.....friggin' incredible tank! Just wish I had water in it, LOL!

 

[rovster]

Here you go. Here is a pic of the tank and the overflow without the cover. Its just smoked glass.....




Here is a pic with the overflow cover....



Hope this helps. FWIW, I will be using a herbie system, hence the 3 holes and the larger overflow. Felix usually does 2 holes for a traditional drain. The plus is the smaller footprint. He says the overflow cover helps to dampen any noise and they run silent or close to it, but I wanted the third hole. That is the great thing about having a tank made....its your way. Mine is 52" x 26" x 19" if you're curious......

 

[Cloudburst2000]

Thanks! I was totally unsure what 'hybrid' overflow meant. I saw different descriptions in different places online. And is the 'herbie overflow' the one that has extra safety measure built into it with the extra hole? And how much larger was your 'herbie overflow' then the traditional overflow?

Wish I could get a tank that large but I am restricted to about 55g in my apartment.

 

[Cloudburst2000]

Ah - I see. I rather doubt it would make any difference whatsoever whether the overflow is an in-tank wall mount box, an out-of-tank box, or an in-tank, "traditional" overflow drilled through the bottom of the tank as far as risk of getting a snail/algae/fish clog.

What I meant about the tank length and accessories has to do with full-length fixtures, such as the ATI powermodule, Pacific Sun LED/T5 hybrids, Maxspect Razor, etc... If the tank is an odd length instead of multiples of 12", some fixtures may not set on the tank rim as designed and may have to be "rigged". Obviously, this doesn't apply to modular LEDs or fixtures hung from the ceiling.

Personally speaking, I'd go from more space back-to-front if the coral is your main thing, or length if fish are your main thing. Longer tanks give active fish a lot more swimming room, and potentially more sapce to carve out territories. Front-to-back depth gives a lot more flexibility with aquascaping and allows one to avoid the "two mountain" layout that are so often seen on tank build threads.

I do like coral but I also want fish. I particularly want a peppermint hogfish. Other fish possibilities include a pink skunk clown, some type of cardinal, flame hawkfish, reef chromis, zebra barred dartfish, blue spotted jawfish, etc. Of course, I will not be keeping all of these fish but only a select few. The only definite fish is the peppermint hogfish. Would the 30" or 36" be better for the peppermint hogfish?

 

[dkeller_nc]

I couldn't give you personal experience with hogfish in a reef aquarium, but based on the size of a long-time resident lyretail hogfish at a LFS (that one's in a 1500 gallon tank), any 55 gallon-ish aquarium is going to wind up being a bit cramped for most species of hogfish when fully mature.

 

[Cloudburst2000]

Peppermint hogfish is one of the smaller more peaceful hogfish and I have seen most places list aquarium size around 50g. If it is a really big swimmer then I may go with 36" over the 30" aquarium.

 

[rovster]

Thanks! I was totally unsure what 'hybrid' overflow meant. I saw different descriptions in different places online. And is the 'herbie overflow' the one that has extra safety measure built into it with the extra hole? And how much larger was your 'herbie overflow' then the traditional overflow?

Wish I could get a tank that large but I am restricted to about 55g in my apartment.

Herbie just refers to 2 drains, bean is 3. Felix was hesitant to do the 3 holes because he was worried the overflow would be too big. It's really not bad at all. However, in a smaller tank, that might look a little large. In my case, I did not want anything behind the tank. If you don't mind that, you could have him drill the back of the tank and bring the return from the other side. Another option to save space is to do a glass holes overflow, but again we are talking about plumbing behind the tank.

 

[Cloudburst2000]

I have never had a drilled tank or sump before so still learning here. My first tank was a 25g which I have broken down to upgrade. It used HOB CPR Aquafuge 2 with built-in skimmer. All my other reef tanks are less than 20g. So once Felix gets back with me on pricing, I'll ask about making alterations to the design and see what he suggests.

 

[dkeller_nc]

Well, this is just an opinion based on being around the hobby for a long time, but any of the newer tank drain schemes are going to be "just as good". When I first started in this hobby, all overflows were drained with one bulkhead through the bottom of the tank. Yeah, the "waterfall" effect wasn't silent, but I don't personally find the sound of falling water to be obnoxious. And as long as you had more than one overflow in a tank, there was little risk of an obstruction resulting in a dry sump and a flooded room.

My take on it is that a Herbie, Durso, Bean Animal, etc... drain configuration is largely about silence. If that's important to you, then there's probably a "better" among these choices. If it's not, than any of them will probably thrill you after having HOB equipment.

 

[rovster]

I chose herbie because the silent, and safety factor. Tank will be in the family room, and though I do not mind a little noise, I don't want a waterfall either.

So you haven't received a price from Felix? Be prepared, they are not cheap, but totally worth it. Was working on my plumbing today, hopefully it'll be wet soon!

 

[Cloudburst2000]

Well, this tank will be going in the bedroom so silence is a bit more important. I can sleep through anything, not so much for my man. So I'll talk to Felix about modding the overflow design a bit. I also saw one of his tanks with an external overflow. We really liked that look so may ask Felix about this option also.

rovster, did you have your stand also built by Reef Savvy? If so, how much did that run you? My boyfriend really likes the looks of the Elos stands and we were curiuos about having Felix build something similar. However, we have heard that his stands can run more than his tanks. We had a local carpenter build our last stand. It turned out really nice. Might go that route again. Our decor is mid-century modern and I don't think either of us could build something that really complements that decor. Hence, the professionally-made stands.

 

[dkeller_nc]

Cloudburst: I'm a very experienced cabinetmaker (in the old sense of the word - "woodworker & furnituremaker"). This is what I would suggest.

No stand that can be disassembled and shipped is every going to be as sturdy as one that is made with glue and mechanical fasteners such that it can't be disassembled. I've little doubt about the quality of Elos stands, because they'd better be - they're ridiculously expensive for plywood and MDF. That said, you're likely to get a better product, made exactly to your specifications, for the same or less from a local cabinetmaker.

Regarding noise - you might want to quiz your significant other about what constitutes "irritating noise" vs. "soothing background white noise". For me, low-volume flow of water is helpful, as it drowns out rowdy neighbors, car alarms, etc... But I find hum coming from electric motors to be highly irritating. My guess is that your overflow won't be the main issue - it will be hum from pumps or other equipment.

For example, the Vortech pumps were new to me when I got back into this hobby. While in my opinion they're absolutely the greatest thing since frozen fish food from the animal husbandry perspective, they're certainly not silent. And I've been told the MP-40s are really noisy compared to the 2 MP-10ESs that I have.

 

[rovster]

Well, this tank will be going in the bedroom so silence is a bit more important. I can sleep through anything, not so much for my man. So I'll talk to Felix about modding the overflow design a bit. I also saw one of his tanks with an external overflow. We really liked that look so may ask Felix about this option also.

rovster, did you have your stand also built by Reef Savvy? If so, how much did that run you? My boyfriend really likes the looks of the Elos stands and we were curiuos about having Felix build something similar. However, we have heard that his stands can run more than his tanks. We had a local carpenter build our last stand. It turned out really nice. Might go that route again. Our decor is mid-century modern and I don't think either of us could build something that really complements that decor. Hence, the professionally-made stands.

I built my stand myself. I've seen a lot of stands at Reef Savvy. They are all good work. Stands range a LOT in price depending on what you want, and how fancy. I know a stand for my tank could range from $800-$2000+

Here are pics of my stand. I got inspiration from d2mini's cube build....

pre polyurethane finish....


Tank on stand. I don't have a finished pic with the doors on, but I can tell you it looks pretty good, LOL!



Will finish one day, LOL!

 

[Cloudburst2000]

Cloudburst: I'm a very experienced cabinetmaker (in the old sense of the word - "woodworker & furnituremaker"). This is what I would suggest.

No stand that can be disassembled and shipped is every going to be as sturdy as one that is made with glue and mechanical fasteners such that it can't be disassembled. I've little doubt about the quality of Elos stands, because they'd better be - they're ridiculously expensive for plywood and MDF. That said, you're likely to get a better product, made exactly to your specifications, for the same or less from a local cabinetmaker.

That's exactly why we don't want to go with the Elos stands. We like the modernist looks of them...not the way they are built. The stands that I have seen built by Felix look extremely sturdy and rock-solid which is why we are also requesting a quote on a stand that looks similar to aesthetics of the Elos stand. We like what the OUTSIDE of the Elos stand looks like. Something similar would go very well with our decor.