im perplex as to why everytime i perform WC some of my sps either rtn, bleached or no PE. What's the correct way to go about doing a WC? Before i put in freshwater i normally test for PH, Temp, SG. Everything is on par. I then proceed to put the water in the sump slowly via airline tube. Am i missing something here? I have a 125 and do 10-20 gallons(RO) every 2 wks. What else do you test for? BTW i mixed salt and let it sit for 2 days.
what is the correct way to do WC?
- Thread starter johnvu713
- Start date
david8956
New member
I change 10 gal every week, never had issues with any corals due to a water change.
I also just mix up my water change water 1 or 2 days ahead of time (keeping a MJ 1200 in the container to keep it circulating), check temp, calcium, alkalinity, and SG to make sure they all match what's in the tank. I don't see where you are testing alk in your water change water, this could be a problem if it is much different than your tank water. Also, no contaminates in any of your water containers right ?
I also just mix up my water change water 1 or 2 days ahead of time (keeping a MJ 1200 in the container to keep it circulating), check temp, calcium, alkalinity, and SG to make sure they all match what's in the tank. I don't see where you are testing alk in your water change water, this could be a problem if it is much different than your tank water. Also, no contaminates in any of your water containers right ?
Wow... something ain't right.
I am _NOT_ advocating you do things this way, but my average water change starts out w/ me turning the water on before going to bed (RO/DI Unit). By the time I get up, my garbage can is usually full (or close enough)... It takes me a week or two to get around to throwing a heater in to bring it up to temp. The day of the water change, I start adding salt (60 gallons takes a while to mix). Shut down pumps, start draining, and by the time I'm done, the new water's been adjusted to the correct salinity. I don't check anything else. Dump it in the sump, turn pumps back on, change filter floss and carbon, wash hands and arms, go have a beer.
- Mac
I am _NOT_ advocating you do things this way, but my average water change starts out w/ me turning the water on before going to bed (RO/DI Unit). By the time I get up, my garbage can is usually full (or close enough)... It takes me a week or two to get around to throwing a heater in to bring it up to temp. The day of the water change, I start adding salt (60 gallons takes a while to mix). Shut down pumps, start draining, and by the time I'm done, the new water's been adjusted to the correct salinity. I don't check anything else. Dump it in the sump, turn pumps back on, change filter floss and carbon, wash hands and arms, go have a beer.
- Mac
Somethings odd there. I do 10% weekly (lately every other day to siphon out sand) and have never had any problems. The only thing I check is salinity.
I shut down the system.
Siphon water and detritus from main system.
Turn on main pump to empty sump then turn off.
Pump new water into sump.
I shut down the system.
Siphon water and detritus from main system.
Turn on main pump to empty sump then turn off.
Pump new water into sump.
wakefreak33
New member
Perhaps there is something wrong with your salt or your mixing bucket, they could be contaminated. Your method sounds fine and is similar to what I do
shelburn61
New member
Ditto on the bad salt. 10-20g isn't enough to swing your params that much IMO ?
If you let your tank water level get really low with the MH still on you could be burning the corals? If you get desperate you could try going through your normal water change procedure but put the old water back in. Cut out the other variables and if nothing goes wrong it's your salt?
If you let your tank water level get really low with the MH still on you could be burning the corals? If you get desperate you could try going through your normal water change procedure but put the old water back in. Cut out the other variables and if nothing goes wrong it's your salt?
clkwrk
Active member
I agree somethings outawack. I change anywhere from 10g to 25g on my 120 and 20g on my 90g .
I mix it and let it sit over night areating . Although for the 120 if I have detectable po4 I won't mix it overnight as my po4 level in fresh mixed kent is .04 and by the next morining it raiseing up .05-.06 . So when my 120 shows P I just mix it up and suck my water out of the display then I fill the display with the water from the sump and then dump my new mix into the sump with the skimmer going for an hr or so then I turn it all back on .
Never have experience 1 RTN event after a WC .
Opps forgot to mention the usual
I match sg,temp,alk,ca,mg unless I am trying to raise anything.
I mix it and let it sit over night areating . Although for the 120 if I have detectable po4 I won't mix it overnight as my po4 level in fresh mixed kent is .04 and by the next morining it raiseing up .05-.06 . So when my 120 shows P I just mix it up and suck my water out of the display then I fill the display with the water from the sump and then dump my new mix into the sump with the skimmer going for an hr or so then I turn it all back on .
Never have experience 1 RTN event after a WC .
Opps forgot to mention the usual
I match sg,temp,alk,ca,mg unless I am trying to raise anything.
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MiddletonMark
Premium Member
I do much as above. Fill Rubbermaid with RODI ... often toss in heater/powerhead overnight.
Next morning, add some salt. A while later, add more + off/on during day add salt until SG mixes up fine.
Before bed, I check temp with my display tank's thermometer + adjust to match. Let mix overnight at temp.
The next day, change water. Often 10-25%, without problems.
--
What are you mixing the new water in? You sure it's food-safe?
How are you measuring SG?
What salt mix?
How long do you leave new water mixed at temp/SG matching?
I often will have one during the process
Next morning, add some salt. A while later, add more + off/on during day add salt until SG mixes up fine.
Before bed, I check temp with my display tank's thermometer + adjust to match. Let mix overnight at temp.
The next day, change water. Often 10-25%, without problems.
--
What are you mixing the new water in? You sure it's food-safe?
How are you measuring SG?
What salt mix?
How long do you leave new water mixed at temp/SG matching?
Why wait until after?
I often will have one during the process
i know a lot of folks do WC like ReeferMAc, Jcorso and Sparkss. All they do is check for SG and theyre done. They dont check for alk or any other variables and their tanks are smaller than mine. I got my container from walmart. maybe i need to look into buying another one.
Kinetic
Active member
My water changes consist of 20% NSW changes.
I heat up the NSW with a powerhead for about 3 hours (get home from work, throw in a heater and PH and let it go for 3 hours). After the heat matches the tanks, I turn off all the pumps, drain water from the sump, and replace the water.
Sometimes I'll siphon from the sand bed.
Sometimes I'll check params of the NSW, but it's usually perfect.
I heat up the NSW with a powerhead for about 3 hours (get home from work, throw in a heater and PH and let it go for 3 hours). After the heat matches the tanks, I turn off all the pumps, drain water from the sump, and replace the water.
Sometimes I'll siphon from the sand bed.
Sometimes I'll check params of the NSW, but it's usually perfect.
samsfishnchips
Premium Member
no need for declorinator, the pre filter take care of that,
sam
