What supplements add color to your corals?
- Thread starter Reeferon
- Start date
allsps40
New member
Iodine, potassium and amino acids.
I did not write this nor do I claim to.
Guide of SPS coral coloration (make them more vivid, bright)
Posted on September 3rd, 2008 by Ryan Gripp 8 Comments
This guide endeavors to assist you with the ever popular SPS coral. This was written by member Shadowramy and it explains specific ideas and strategies in which you can do to affect the color of your corals. This assumes you have a more then basic understanding of water parameters in your tank. Click the read link to start reading about coloring in SPS corals.
In the past I have been asked a lot about coral colorization as well as wanted to satisfy my own curiosity about specific methods to achieving certain colors. Usually I am asked, “How do you get good colors?â€Â Which I then ask, “What specific color are you looking to enhance?â€Â Over the past several months I have really worked on “tweakingâ€Â colors and what is needed to get certain colors. I have done my own testing as well as seen a lot of others tanks and what they have done to achieve certain colors. I think I finally have a basic map for those who are interested.
Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock.
Yellows
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
Greens
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).
Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).
Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
Blues and some purples
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol̢۪s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don̢۪t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
Reds/Pinks and some Purples
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.
For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don̢۪t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
Purples
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.
From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another̢۪s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.
I did not write this nor do I claim to.
Guide of SPS coral coloration (make them more vivid, bright)
Posted on September 3rd, 2008 by Ryan Gripp 8 Comments
This guide endeavors to assist you with the ever popular SPS coral. This was written by member Shadowramy and it explains specific ideas and strategies in which you can do to affect the color of your corals. This assumes you have a more then basic understanding of water parameters in your tank. Click the read link to start reading about coloring in SPS corals.
In the past I have been asked a lot about coral colorization as well as wanted to satisfy my own curiosity about specific methods to achieving certain colors. Usually I am asked, “How do you get good colors?â€Â Which I then ask, “What specific color are you looking to enhance?â€Â Over the past several months I have really worked on “tweakingâ€Â colors and what is needed to get certain colors. I have done my own testing as well as seen a lot of others tanks and what they have done to achieve certain colors. I think I finally have a basic map for those who are interested.
Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock.
Yellows
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
Greens
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).
Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).
Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
Blues and some purples
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol̢۪s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don̢۪t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
Reds/Pinks and some Purples
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.
For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don̢۪t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
Purples
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.
From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another̢۪s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.
Last edited:
outy
New member
with regular water changes you dont need any additives at all.
some people are additive junkies and others just a few and many add nothing.
I dont do amny water changes due to having clean water and after 14 years just started adding essential elements every two weeks and only because I have SPS. LPS thrived without additives
the link allsps40 provided is very very usefull
some people are additive junkies and others just a few and many add nothing.
I dont do amny water changes due to having clean water and after 14 years just started adding essential elements every two weeks and only because I have SPS. LPS thrived without additives
the link allsps40 provided is very very usefull
bfam4t6
New member
Thank you for the suggestion Petar. That is one I will definitely have to remember for the future. I think it may be a little much (price-wise and potency) for my current system, but I have upgrades planned in the near future so I will likely give it a try after those upgrades take place.
Outy, what about calcium, magnesium, and alkilinity? I haven't been in the hobby for very long mind you, but I had trouble keeping those all high enough until I began using Kemp's Nano Reef A and B and their Liquid Calcium. I wasn't seeking anything with Kemp's name on it, but they were on sale for like $3 so I had to give it a shot. So far, LPS hasn't really changed much, but my SPS have all become much more vibrant and definitely appear to be growing faster. Despite the better colors, I still feel like mine are a few notches below where they could be. Also, I'm only running an 11 gal. system until I can relocate to a more permament location and set up my 30+gal with the 10gal as my sump. I imagine my small system would also limit the need for additives?
Outy, what about calcium, magnesium, and alkilinity? I haven't been in the hobby for very long mind you, but I had trouble keeping those all high enough until I began using Kemp's Nano Reef A and B and their Liquid Calcium. I wasn't seeking anything with Kemp's name on it, but they were on sale for like $3 so I had to give it a shot. So far, LPS hasn't really changed much, but my SPS have all become much more vibrant and definitely appear to be growing faster. Despite the better colors, I still feel like mine are a few notches below where they could be. Also, I'm only running an 11 gal. system until I can relocate to a more permament location and set up my 30+gal with the 10gal as my sump. I imagine my small system would also limit the need for additives?
OneReef
Reef Guru
I don't know that I buy into that whole certain additives bring out certain colors theory. I have seen that info for awhile now. I think different spectrum of light bring out different colors. For instance, 10K may bring out better blue colors. There are members that have posted that T5 vs metal halies, that T5 brought out better color in some corals, and MH brought out certain colors in others, while some corals did equally well under both. I think water quality, and feeding, good skimmer, and amino acids, oyster eggs, etc, will help bring about their potential, but that is just my .02. But to say corals need iodine, potassium, etc, I don't think I buy into that. But what do I know, I am just a hobbyist with no scientific background or studies.... :0) I just piddle....lol
allsps40
New member
No problem Reeferon, I found it a few days ago and I know its a pain find this find of info. Ca, alk and mag need to be dosed to a sps tank. The need for these is greater than the supply with just water changes. Mag is not quite as important as ca and alk but is good to have. Being a dosing junky is bad, dont dose anything you can test for. If you do under dosing is best. I dose iodine but dont have a test kit so I dose lightly. And yes lighting has a lot to do with coral color. 20ks will bring out great blues, purples and pinks. T5s with the right bulbs can bring out some nice colors. Water quality has a big impact. I can say for sure that iodine and aminos boost color. When I started I saw an increase and change in color and when I stopped colors faded. I just started dosing mag and potassium so I will see how that works. Oh I also use Kent A and B but will be switching to BRS 2 part as it is cheaper.
