What's wrong w/my corals?

Korrine

You could get a ticket!!
These aren't looking so hot. What do you think?

Alpha omega...I think
PB140278.jpg

Cat Eye
PB140280.jpg

Armor of God-nothing noticeably dead yet, but it hasn't opened fully for a few days. Just stays like this.
PB140281.jpg
 
Last one is easy to fix then. Currently running 96w pc. 48w 10k and other 48w are half 10k and half actinic. Will hang a 250w MH tomorrow.
 
The one on top had about 10+ polyps on it...then a week or so ago they just started closing up, right to left.

I have a seafoam paly colony that seems just fine. Also w/10+ polyps on it.
 
Have you tested your water? How old is the tank? I ask because the LR looks "young" but I know pics can be deceiving. Post everything you can think of about the tank, it will help someone pinpoint your problem a little easier.

Fcamdog
 
It was set up in March. The only nitrate test kit is API and I don't trust it. I only have Alk for Salifert so far. My PH is always 7.9ish, but it is consistent.

I've neglected the tank and hadn't done a water change in probably 3 weeks. It's 29 gallons. My only stocking is a single yasha goby w/his pistol shrimp and various snails. Nassarius, astreae w/3 blue legged hermits.

The green pieces of rock are rock that I added a few months ago. They are trying to grow coraline now.
 
I just did about a 12g water change yesterday. When I lights come on today I'll be watching to see if I see any improvments and I'll post what I see.
 
Before you add anymore life, make sure you test all your water perameters and have consistent readings for 3 weeks.

Phosphates
Nitrates
KH
Calcium
Ammonia
PH

If you are switching to a 250w MH I'd put any corals in a semi shaded area in the lowest point of the tank until they acclimate to the more intense lighting. slowly move them up (ev 3 weeks or so) until they are where you want them.
 
Phosphates are a crap shoot though. :worried: Unless I have a phosphate photometer, right? I did throw a bag of rowaphos in the return of my bak pak skimmer.

Nitrates were reading 20-40ppm then a friend used salifert and it gave 5ppm(I'm pretty sure he did it correctly). I don't trust my api test and don't have salifert....yet.

KH and Calc tie together since I'm not dosing anything and I use a really good salt mix(Reef Crystals) that I mix myself. I do have a salifert test for KH.

I haven't tested for ammonia since a small fish died and I couldn't get it out. I maintained 0 ammonia through that process. Unless something drastic has happened (which very well could be) I doubt I'd have ammonia. I'll check it w/my API.

My ph is always about 7.9 or so. Not high, nor low, but always consistent. I'll check:

KH
Ammonia
PH

and post the results :)
 
If you are switching to a 250w MH I'd put any corals in a semi shaded area in the lowest point of the tank until they acclimate to the more intense lighting. slowly move them up (ev 3 weeks or so) until they are where you want them.


I have netting that I placed on top of the tank. I'll decrease it little by little. :)
 
While I was at it I went ahead and did:

ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
ph 7.8ish
KH DKH is 8.0 or in meq/L 2.86
sg 1.022 tad low, but not to bad for softies...will raise it over time

I'm really surprised nitrate said 0.
 
No it's not :) That's in the normal range. Any lower I'd be concerned. It's always about this every time I test, no matter how many water changes I do. Since my ALK is always fine from the wc, I don't mess w/it.

Randy Holmes-Farley

In my opinion, the pH range from 7.8 to 8.5 is an acceptable range for reef aquaria, with several caveats. These are:
  1. That the alkalinity is at least 2.5 meq/L, and preferably higher at the lower end of this pH range. This statement is based partly on the fact that many reef aquaria operate acceptably in the pH 7.8 to 8.0 range, but that most of the best examples of these types of aquaria incorporate calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors that, while tending to lower the pH, also tend to keep the carbonate alkalinity fairly high (at or above 3 meq/L.). In this case, any problems associated with calcification at these lower pH values may be offset by the higher alkalinity. Low pH stresses calcifying organisms primarily by making it harder for them to obtain sufficient carbonate to deposit skeletons. Raising the alkalinity mitigates this difficulty by supplying extra bicarbonate.
  2. That the calcium level is at least 400 ppm. Calcification becomes more difficult as the pH falls, and it also becomes more difficult as the calcium level falls. It would not be desirable to push all of the extremes of pH, alkalinity, and calcium at the same time. So, if the pH is on the low side and cannot be easily changed (such as in an aquarium with a CaCO[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-2]3[/SIZE][/FONT]/CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] reactor), at least make sure that the calcium level is acceptable (~400-450 ppm). Likewise, one of the problems at higher pH (above say, 8.2, but getting progressively more problematic with each incremental rise) is the abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate, resulting in a drop in calcium and alkalinity, and the resultant clogging of heaters and pump impellers. If the aquarium's pH is 8.4 or higher (as often happens in an aquarium using limewater), then it is especially important that both the calcium and alkalinity levels are suitably maintained (that is, neither too low, inhibiting biological calcification, nor too high, causing excessive abiotic precipitation on equipment).
 
Helping ya ID the zoa you had in question in the first pic of zoas they are the "ring of fire" zoas-
Maybe lighting isnt strong enough. Did you end up putting up the MH light?
 
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