jdamon
New member
Great! I have a "commercial pack" 200 gal bag that I ordered through the LFS for 54 bucks or something, pretty good deal! I don't need any more buckets... And that increases the price quite a bit.
What's your favorite brand salt mix ?
- Thread starter Jettareefer
- Start date
Great! I have a "commercial pack" 200 gal bag that I ordered through the LFS for 54 bucks or something, pretty good deal! I don't need any more buckets... And that increases the price quite a bit.
jdamon
New member
They have it at "that fish place", but they only have the 175 gal bucket, and it's pretty much the same price as the coral pro. I got mine through the LFS, they ordered it for me, and he was able to get the 200gal bag for about 55 bucks, 10 cheaper than 175 bucket, and 25 more gal of salt. Red Sea states that at 33.5 ppt salinity, alk is 7.3-7.5 dKH, cal is 390-410, and mag is 1170-1230mg/L. Check out Red Sea website or that pet place, and you will see the write up about the new formula etc.
ERIKATHORNBURG
New member
I use Red Sea pro.
Mr D smack
Active member
I just tested a new bag from my 200 gallon box. Magnesium is 1290 per salifert at 35ppm.
redwingrob40
New member
Been using Red sea coral pro since I started my tank. After seeing all the folks that use instant ocean, may have to give it a try especially since it would be a definite money savings...
Jettareefer
New member
I just got regular instant ocean in bags and it came out fairly well except for the Alk.
Sal: 102.5
Ph: 8.4
Alk: 12 pretty high!
Mag: 1350
Cal: 420
Sal: 102.5
Ph: 8.4
Alk: 12 pretty high!
Mag: 1350
Cal: 420
Jettareefer
New member
Back from the dead with 5 more years several different sps tanks. Now just here to spread old timer wisdom since this topic seems to be forever relevant. I started this thread after almost 13 in the hobby, but still naive and unwilling to believe in simplicity. It wasn't until I made reef tanks my profession my life's work installing and servicing custom tanks (higher end). Most of my tanks full on Sps tanks I only do work I enjoy it's honestly not about the money. The longer I was doing it I questioned why I made things complicated for myself and my clients with all bacteria/nutrient removal and all the gadgets that made the balancing act a PITA. My method/approach changed over he course of the first two years as I started striped pretty much all my clients tanks of anything that wasn't considered essential ex. Skimmer truly is your life line. Long story short I got to a point where in terms setup very simple and uniform. This made my life so much easier and I can enjoy days working hard instead monkeying with reactor's and explaining complicated dosing instructions 
. Today 18 years invested in the reef trade I've been in it since it was necessary to run chillers, crank the a/c up just to have the halides (radiums/xm 10ks/Reeflux 12's) with
Parabolic reflector or lumenarcs/lumens and as many damn UVL VHO actinic's you could get to fit over your aquarium. Beckett skimmers and etss reef devils with giant Danner pumps. Literally for the most part ORA was the only legit source for true "œcollector" corals/sps circa the time period/tyree and PC came later (sunnyx!)
JBNY was the man!
I ended up with my current recipe over evolution and maturing as a person. I'll try my best just outline it.
-strong lighting- 4 options I offer (reefbrite xhos 2Xblues/1x50/50 on inline dimmers, ATI sunpower, AI hydra HD's, and Aquaticlife hybrid w/AI's)
-Mandatory equipment- Decent sized trigger Systems sump (depends on space/net volume)I do utilize Refugiums clients like them, a reliable ol cone skimmer rated at least 3-5x volume (reef octopus classic), and lastly Sicce syncra return not to strong just enough to be efficient it doesn't yeild any benifits push tons of water thru your sump and make salt creep mess/special circumstances like bedrooms/offices I use reef octopus's varios DC line had decent success thus far with them.
Hard plumbing- w/ ball or gate valves, and also schedule 80 unions (reason being accordion hose are prone to leaking it's just the lazy mans way making easy IMO soft hose just look like crap! No offense) Having more control along with I feel strongly it dampens noise and the overall function for the you servicing the aquarium, utilizing space effectively vs hoses in your way the simple fact you can take apart resemble if you need to /and making maintenance a walk in the park. If done correctly and meticulously will last forever and be reliable most of all!
Heater controller-(must have heaters are proven to be the #1 catastrophic failure point)- Apex/Inkbird both have my trust. Here's my sales pitch the inkbird seriously $36 on Amazon it's pocket change compared to your livestock.Apex's aren't bad it overly complicates things if it a problem I have fix it! For the clients who can't help checking things or travel fine, but otherwise I'm not selling one it more trouble then it's worth.
Heaters- they all stink lol, if at all possible I don't run one. Most of the time you have to after going titanium option with lackluster results (like I tried a JBJ try temp it nuked a tank coralwise and most of fish died (90 degrees!) at 4 month after being installed, I tried aquatop I like them in terms of performance, but don't trust them period secondary controllers (aka redundancy common theme with me). Ebo Jager I hate glass it the best viable option I've been using them again.. I trust them on personal tanks controlled via the apex (I do replace them every once in a while since they get moisture trapped inside)
Flow(inside display)- i have write a novel sorry related to the topic. I honestly at this point have had it with the QC (in 18' it was epically awful missing power supplies in sealed boxes and such) of maxspect/ecotech with my own gyres/vortechs (the past wetside Magnet/shaft issue that killed tanks) it's scary for me. The motor died on my newest gyre within warranty (a year) they refused to replace it same happened with clients I had to pay for that. Leads me to this I've owned and used all of them, price to actual performance jebao's have won my business even roughly 10 years ago when you had to convert the voltage
. It is a hard sale since they're knock off chinese units, unfortunately I still have to do business with the big guys gyres are great for flat uniform linear flow. My opinion not to start drama. To the point of this topic is actually this lots of very random strong flow yet gentle indirect coral contact you effectively try to create something based on natural reefs and get the polyps dancing hitting coral directly hard is really isn't the point if they lose tissue or literally grow with the flow to direct.You can have a ton of flow if no effectively directed it's almost like have an invisible wall dead heading. Keep in mind the random and uniform patterns alternating will yeild the best results most natural growth structure. Once my one of the gyres went I put the smallest jebao pp model on 100% close duration wave mode W1 it has a high flow rate not equivalent it's been amazing couldn't be more satisfied with the result as an example I still employ one gyre on the opposite end.. Some of my sps my Walt Disney, PC Superman, WWC heartbreaker are a just a few that almost instantly showed improvement and where stimulated producing faster growth and intense PE.
Live rock/sand- I normally try to keep established LR OLD SCHOOL Fiji great surface area probably the most efficient LR in of biological filtration, Haitian (flat), pulkani, Tonga branches if I can source, and real reef branches (looks and dimension cool coral placement not for any biological purposes). I run typically try to minimalize overall amount in display to allow open environments and for coral growth, I try my best to maximize LR in cryptic zones in sumps. I exclusively either run BB or Agralive reef sand (heavy course sand) it's great and completely fake! I've used it forever I've noticed it buffers the water well in terms of trace elements and it helps. It vacuums nicely you can get all the detritus to separate in the hydro tube without wasting sand!
Water chemistry- This is something we all have been victims to.. chasing numbers (nutrients in particular). I have OCD yeah I had a major issue it led to nonsense with bacteria/reactors and lackluster coral color and vitality I think a wave where ULNS where the only way. Let's close that chapter I'm hear to tell you nutrients are really your friends. I really let go I don't really think it's worth while I don't test period use the corals as a guide. My sps tank at home last I checked no3 was 20-25ppm/Po4 .19-.24 Hanna 736. Now the big 5 Salinity, Alk, Cal, Mag, K I do periodically test k/salinity after a while it's stable and you get a hang for it. ALK, Cal, Mag test them regularly Alk 2x minna week/the other 2 once a week find your dosage and eventually with some hard work you'll find a sweet spot. I use balling method on every I service using BRS BULK PRODUCTS. I do you kalk on low demand system
Via gravity fed float there are benefits with high ph. Do annual Triton test it's definitely worth it!
Salt mix- it's all hype for the last 2.5 years I've used plain regular instant ocean/used reef crystals before I don't bother buffering it at all. I find no need to spend more because in the end a salt mix doesn't make your tank great hold that thought and save it don't buy into jargon. It's been an amazing testament to keeping things stable and simple. 5-15% weekly/bi-weekly is my preferred.
Fish/feeding- I run large bio loads with the proper foundation you'll have nothing to
Worry about and it will help your corals thrive. Feeding it's important to feed a variety of different thing feed quality/clean food LRS reef frenzy or diy from the store is great/bulk seaweed/ San Fransico bay omega/surpilinia brine. I just mix it up nothing fancy. I feed heavy happy fish/happy corals!
My current planet rimless had all the fancy bs. It was started as zeovit driven system zeolite reactor/all additives(vinegar basically makes up 90% products)/amino's, gfo/Phosban 150, trigger 30" elite with Refugium invested in a AI prime to light it, reef octopus 202s cone, apex, 2x reefbrite xho blues on 6x39w ATI sunpower, gyre 230's,
Today I've stripped it of everything that wasn't necessary now it's on the same
Platform as my service tanks. It's basically the skimmer, sump with lr, removed light and macro from refug, Sicce return, heater/controller(apex), no mechanical filteration, heavy flow with jebao/gyre 230, ati sun power now with sb reef bar bc they're 100 time better color wise, and instant ocean with balling method. I recently nearly let all die with an AlK spike, along with a few other pretty bad things and black bugs killed so much during a rough patch. I'm in the process of overhauling it in 5 stages which included treating the bugs 8x red bug dosage of interceptor at 24 hour exposure period two treatments two weeks a
Part. First 3x treatment helped but they came back fiercely and removal dead and unwanted stuff which I've completed. On stage 3 currently aiptasia removal I basically turned my back after a bad car accident life had me down for a good 6 months it was really hard on my acro collection. 4 is removing all coral from the rocks/placing the coral on rack in display, 5 is the new minimalistic aquascape to let all my stuff grow out and get large. It's rough right now I'm excited to build something Unique. I wish I had been able to do better this is it as it sits. If ou have questions please ask I'm more then willing to help.
. Today 18 years invested in the reef trade I've been in it since it was necessary to run chillers, crank the a/c up just to have the halides (radiums/xm 10ks/Reeflux 12's) withParabolic reflector or lumenarcs/lumens and as many damn UVL VHO actinic's you could get to fit over your aquarium
. Beckett skimmers and etss reef devils with giant Danner pumps. Literally for the most part ORA was the only legit source for true "œcollector" corals/sps circa the time period/tyree and PC came later (sunnyx!)JBNY was the man!
I ended up with my current recipe over evolution and maturing as a person. I'll try my best just outline it.
-strong lighting- 4 options I offer (reefbrite xhos 2Xblues/1x50/50 on inline dimmers, ATI sunpower, AI hydra HD's, and Aquaticlife hybrid w/AI's)
-Mandatory equipment- Decent sized trigger Systems sump (depends on space/net volume)I do utilize Refugiums clients like them, a reliable ol cone skimmer rated at least 3-5x volume (reef octopus classic), and lastly Sicce syncra return not to strong just enough to be efficient it doesn't yeild any benifits push tons of water thru your sump and make salt creep mess/special circumstances like bedrooms/offices I use reef octopus's varios DC line had decent success thus far with them.
Hard plumbing- w/ ball or gate valves, and also schedule 80 unions (reason being accordion hose are prone to leaking it's just the lazy mans way making easy IMO soft hose just look like crap! No offense) Having more control along with I feel strongly it dampens noise and the overall function for the you servicing the aquarium, utilizing space effectively vs hoses in your way the simple fact you can take apart resemble if you need to /and making maintenance a walk in the park. If done correctly and meticulously will last forever and be reliable most of all!
Heater controller-(must have heaters are proven to be the #1 catastrophic failure point)- Apex/Inkbird both have my trust. Here's my sales pitch the inkbird seriously $36 on Amazon it's pocket change compared to your livestock.Apex's aren't bad it overly complicates things if it a problem I have fix it! For the clients who can't help checking things or travel fine, but otherwise I'm not selling one it more trouble then it's worth.
Heaters- they all stink lol, if at all possible I don't run one. Most of the time you have to after going titanium option with lackluster results (like I tried a JBJ try temp it nuked a tank coralwise and most of fish died (90 degrees!) at 4 month after being installed, I tried aquatop I like them in terms of performance, but don't trust them period secondary controllers (aka redundancy common theme with me). Ebo Jager I hate glass it the best viable option I've been using them again.. I trust them on personal tanks controlled via the apex (I do replace them every once in a while since they get moisture trapped inside)
Flow(inside display)- i have write a novel sorry related to the topic. I honestly at this point have had it with the QC (in 18' it was epically awful missing power supplies in sealed boxes and such) of maxspect/ecotech with my own gyres/vortechs (the past wetside Magnet/shaft issue that killed tanks) it's scary for me. The motor died on my newest gyre within warranty (a year) they refused to replace it same happened with clients I had to pay for that. Leads me to this I've owned and used all of them, price to actual performance jebao's have won my business even roughly 10 years ago when you had to convert the voltage
. It is a hard sale since they're knock off chinese units, unfortunately I still have to do business with the big guys gyres are great for flat uniform linear flow. My opinion not to start drama. To the point of this topic is actually this lots of very random strong flow yet gentle indirect coral contact you effectively try to create something based on natural reefs and get the polyps dancing hitting coral directly hard is really isn't the point if they lose tissue or literally grow with the flow to direct.You can have a ton of flow if no effectively directed it's almost like have an invisible wall dead heading. Keep in mind the random and uniform patterns alternating will yeild the best results most natural growth structure. Once my one of the gyres went I put the smallest jebao pp model on 100% close duration wave mode W1 it has a high flow rate not equivalent it's been amazing couldn't be more satisfied with the result as an example I still employ one gyre on the opposite end.. Some of my sps my Walt Disney, PC Superman, WWC heartbreaker are a just a few that almost instantly showed improvement and where stimulated producing faster growth and intense PE.Live rock/sand- I normally try to keep established LR OLD SCHOOL Fiji great surface area probably the most efficient LR in of biological filtration, Haitian (flat), pulkani, Tonga branches if I can source, and real reef branches (looks and dimension cool coral placement not for any biological purposes). I run typically try to minimalize overall amount in display to allow open environments and for coral growth, I try my best to maximize LR in cryptic zones in sumps. I exclusively either run BB or Agralive reef sand (heavy course sand) it's great and completely fake! I've used it forever I've noticed it buffers the water well in terms of trace elements and it helps. It vacuums nicely you can get all the detritus to separate in the hydro tube without wasting sand!
Water chemistry- This is something we all have been victims to.. chasing numbers (nutrients in particular). I have OCD yeah I had a major issue it led to nonsense with bacteria/reactors and lackluster coral color and vitality I think a wave where ULNS where the only way. Let's close that chapter I'm hear to tell you nutrients are really your friends. I really let go I don't really think it's worth while I don't test period use the corals as a guide. My sps tank at home last I checked no3 was 20-25ppm/Po4 .19-.24 Hanna 736. Now the big 5 Salinity, Alk, Cal, Mag, K I do periodically test k/salinity after a while it's stable and you get a hang for it. ALK, Cal, Mag test them regularly Alk 2x minna week/the other 2 once a week find your dosage and eventually with some hard work you'll find a sweet spot. I use balling method on every I service using BRS BULK PRODUCTS. I do you kalk on low demand system
Via gravity fed float there are benefits with high ph. Do annual Triton test it's definitely worth it!
Salt mix- it's all hype for the last 2.5 years I've used plain regular instant ocean/used reef crystals before I don't bother buffering it at all. I find no need to spend more because in the end a salt mix doesn't make your tank great hold that thought and save it don't buy into jargon. It's been an amazing testament to keeping things stable and simple. 5-15% weekly/bi-weekly is my preferred.
Fish/feeding- I run large bio loads with the proper foundation you'll have nothing to
Worry about and it will help your corals thrive. Feeding it's important to feed a variety of different thing feed quality/clean food LRS reef frenzy or diy from the store is great/bulk seaweed/ San Fransico bay omega/surpilinia brine. I just mix it up nothing fancy. I feed heavy happy fish/happy corals!
My current planet rimless had all the fancy bs. It was started as zeovit driven system zeolite reactor/all additives(vinegar basically makes up 90% products)/amino's, gfo/Phosban 150, trigger 30" elite with Refugium invested in a AI prime to light it, reef octopus 202s cone, apex, 2x reefbrite xho blues on 6x39w ATI sunpower, gyre 230's,
Today I've stripped it of everything that wasn't necessary now it's on the same
Platform as my service tanks. It's basically the skimmer, sump with lr, removed light and macro from refug, Sicce return, heater/controller(apex), no mechanical filteration, heavy flow with jebao/gyre 230, ati sun power now with sb reef bar bc they're 100 time better color wise, and instant ocean with balling method. I recently nearly let all die with an AlK spike, along with a few other pretty bad things and black bugs killed so much during a rough patch. I'm in the process of overhauling it in 5 stages which included treating the bugs 8x red bug dosage of interceptor at 24 hour exposure period two treatments two weeks a
Part. First 3x treatment helped but they came back fiercely and removal dead and unwanted stuff which I've completed. On stage 3 currently aiptasia removal I basically turned my back after a bad car accident life had me down for a good 6 months it was really hard on my acro collection. 4 is removing all coral from the rocks/placing the coral on rack in display, 5 is the new minimalistic aquascape to let all my stuff grow out and get large. It's rough right now I'm excited to build something Unique. I wish I had been able to do better this is it as it sits. If ou have questions please ask I'm more then willing to help.
Jettareefer
New member
<a href="https://ibb.co/yQ1M05N"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/KrkQ675/04431-ED7-AE9-A-41-DF-8-F00-5752-BEB5484-E.jpg" alt="04431-ED7-AE9-A-41-DF-8-F00-5752-BEB5484-E" border="0" /></a>
SB bar actinic only
<a href="https://ibb.co/kM5hjPc"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HXBr69g/148442-BD-1714-4-A0-E-B139-44-B0-C874912-E.jpg" alt="148442-BD-1714-4-A0-E-B139-44-B0-C874912-E" border="0"></a>
SB with blue plus x2
<a href="https://ibb.co/xsQ6wMm"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/W31f7cD/78880-E61-B033-45-A5-8-EF3-F42-DD71188-DF.jpg" alt="78880-E61-B033-45-A5-8-EF3-F42-DD71188-DF" border="0"></a><br /><a target='_blank' href='https://imgbb.com/'>image free upload</a><br />
All 6x39w t5’s on with led bar
SB bar actinic only
<a href="https://ibb.co/kM5hjPc"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HXBr69g/148442-BD-1714-4-A0-E-B139-44-B0-C874912-E.jpg" alt="148442-BD-1714-4-A0-E-B139-44-B0-C874912-E" border="0"></a>
SB with blue plus x2
<a href="https://ibb.co/xsQ6wMm"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/W31f7cD/78880-E61-B033-45-A5-8-EF3-F42-DD71188-DF.jpg" alt="78880-E61-B033-45-A5-8-EF3-F42-DD71188-DF" border="0"></a><br /><a target='_blank' href='https://imgbb.com/'>image free upload</a><br />
All 6x39w t5’s on with led bar
Last edited:
Jettareefer
New member
All pictures are current post Alk spike which happened a few months ago (15dkh is where I topped out I shoot for 7.5-8.5 this is why you test and measure). Life can be rough at times, but it was really the turning point right after the spike the bugs were able to destroy some stuff quickly some acro’s died in literal days. Black bug nuclear warfare completed 7x-8x red bug dosage with 24 hours+ exposure time of interceptor two weeks ago/first round of clean dead coral removal I finished the past week. The scary part is happening soon lol. It’s simplistic setup and decent equipment, but nothing extra orat all fancy and no3/Po4 probably scary to what most consider acceptable. Why change anything thing growth/color are good( it’s not the ocean... closed systems are a different mix) and never had algae issues. I preach you should spend time enjoying you tank instead of micro managing numbers being frustrated spending good money for a result in end a lot the time doesn’t yeild your desired results. Truly that’s the brass tax. Think about it you could buy coral/new skimmer/lights and kick back relax! The very principle is I used to be the person who lived in fear my Hanna meter I’m the OP of this thread 4-5 years ago. Why spend $95-100 on a bucket of salt I can get IO nearly half of that 200 gallon box or worst case petco has it. Salt is salt IO is proven industry wide really if Jason fox, Big E, me the crazy bored guy and bunch others use it and speak the redundancy/simplistically method. If someone would’ve told me this and thoroughly explained it I would’ve had more fun and success while saving money. Not trolling just paying it forward.
Most of my acro’swould look a lot better the bugs/interceptor and all problems beforehand there’s a long road for most of ones that were infested at one point.
Most of my acro’swould look a lot better the bugs/interceptor and all problems beforehand there’s a long road for most of ones that were infested at one point.
dieselkeeper
New member
Thanks for sharing on how you're keeping reefkeeping simple. I've done it this way for years also. Also using Reef Crystals salt.
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