When should I throw in the towel on this RBTA?

[AliKat]

It's looking worse today. Has lost most of its tentacles and is shriveled up to around half its size. I want to give it the best shot I can, but I certainly don't want to risk everything else in my tank (which is doing extremely well today, by the way).

When should I throw in the towel? Or should I? The mouth is gaping and top of it looks horrible, but the foot is still okay. It's not holding on to anything but the foot looks alright.

Any suggestions? I tried taking a picture, but they are not coming out.

 

[internexus]

Whats the problem? How are your parameters, is it receiving enough light and a light flow? When was the last time it ate?

 

[Lance M.]

Her rbta was recently moved to the tank it's currently in because of an ammonia spike in the tank it was in (there's a thread on here).

The sure sign of death is the anemone physically coming apart and starting to melt away + a very bad smell.

I'd have to see it but if it's really really looking like it's going to die, then I would go for the doxycycline dip-

Here's a quote from the thread:
"Used to have bad luck with them and other anemones till we quaranteened them which consisted of the following procedure. Without it, we were 0/8 on new Heteractis magnifica (now the accepted name, until they decide to change it again)
Upon arrival, all bag water is removed so you're left with a bag full of almost only anemone. The anemone is then added directly to a bucket of good quality tank water and aerated. If the water fouls or gets too much mucus, then discard that water. The anemone is then added to a 5 gallon bucket of good quality tank water which has been previously mixed with 10mg/gal of doxycycline. Most capsules available are 50mg, so a 5gal bucket works nicely. Water is gently aerated for 24 hrs mindful of keeping temp acceptable, which is done by floating the bucket in a sump or larger container of heated water, you don't want the heater in with the anemone. After 24 hrs, remove most of the water and refill with another 5 gal of good quality tank water with 10mg/gal of doxycycline. Leave for another 24hr then remove the anemone to a tank that is large enough to keep them for what could be a long time.
With this procedure, we were 6/8 and that was over 2 years ago and they're still here, with the largest now almost 30" in diameter.
As with any medication, especially anti biotics care must be taken not to overuse.
Joe"
RC Thread

Hope this helps. I've never done this before but someone says in the thread that it saved their anemone from an infection. Since it looks like it's getting ready to die now you have nothing to lose trying it.

 

[AliKat]

Great! I'm willing to do anything to try and save this boy. Where do I get doxycycline? Hopefully, it's not something I can only get at the fish store. I think the fish store is probably closed for the day.

 

[Lance M.]

I think you can get it at any drug store. It's an antibiotic.

Make sure when you do it not to overdose. They suggested 10mg per gallon of water used.

 

[AliKat]

Okay, just did a search and saw it's an antibiotic. Guess it's time to raid my medicine cabinet and hope that I have it. Otherwise, I'm SOL, I guess.

I don't supposed anyone knows if it's in any over the counter meds?

 

[Lance M.]

I have no idea but I wouldn't use it if it's mixed with other things to make a medication. Try and get it by itself. Walmart or any place with a drug store should carry it.

 

[AliKat]

Just called the drug store and they say I need a prescription from the vet or from a doctor. Trying to decide if I should try to track my vet down or just wait until tomorrow. Of course, I'm not sure the guy will be here tomorrow, but who knows?

 

[Lance M.]

Hmm. Very interesting. I would try the vet. Do vets know anything about fish beyond the basics? and for that matter anemones? You'd have to explain it very well.

How is the anemone looking? I would check the water params again.

 

[AliKat]

I called the vet and also the animal emergency clinic. They know absolutely nothing about anemones and won't prescribe anything. I told them I just needed 1 or 2 pills. Not like it was for personal use or anything, but I guess they'd prefer to see an animal die.

The RBTA is not looking good at all. It's mouth is about the size of a dime, and the nem is about the size of a silver dollar, if that big. I'll check the water on this tank and get back to you in a few.

I just don't know what else I can do...

 

[AliKat]

Salinity 1.023
Calcium 420
Ammonia between 0 and 0.25
Nitrites .25 (Interesting. Both ammonia and nitrites have always been 0 before. Is this because of the anemone dying?)
Nitrates 80 (Yikes! Again, this is high. I've had trouble with nitrates in the past month, but not that much trouble.)
Phosphates 5.0
KH 10

The corals are as happy as I've ever seen them. At least they were earlier. They are a little less open than they were an hour ago, which was the most open I've ever seen them. Don't know if that means anything.

 

[Lance M.]

Your nitrites and phosphates should be at 0ppm and the nitrates should be as close to 0 as you can get them <10ppm is ok.

From the water parameters that you posted that is exactly what's killing the bta. I recommed at least a 50% water change immediately, followed with another 50% tomorrow.

Sorry I didn't ask sooner but this is the problem.

With all the views this thread got today I'm surprised no one else commented or asked the most basic question that I totally left out after internexus had asked it- water parameters.

 

[AliKat]

Actually, this tank was fine a few days ago. I suspect that moving the anemone into the tank created this problem.

I'm going to do the water changes, though. And I guess it's time to just give up the fight on the RBTA.

 

[Lance M.]

I would do the water changes and try to get the water parameters back into check. If it's not dead yet there's still the chance it will make it.

I wouldn't think an anemone the size you have could have that much, if any effect, on a 55 gallon tank, especially to bring the nitrates up to 80. There shouldn't be any reading for nitrite. There seems to be an underlying problem.

Now if the anemone had melted away then I could see this but it hasn't started coming apart correct?

 

[AliKat]

There are little white flakes that have been coming off of it since yesterday. I think it's the tentacles falling off because there aren't many tentacles left. :-(

It's really sad because the fish in the aquarium keep thinking the white flakes are mysis and run after them.

I was having a nitrate problem a couple of weeks ago, but it wasn't nearly this bad. I hope the water changes will get everything in check.

 

[Lance M.]

The water changes should bring it back in check, but since you had this problem a couple weeks ago, it seems there is something adding to the nitrates.

How long has the 55 been set up? How often do you normally do water changes on it? What is the bioload for the tank (# fish)? Do you feed a lot? Do you use RO/DI water?

Your phosphates were also very high.

 

[AliKat]

LOL. I'm driving all over my hometown trying to find someone who's open and has r/o water. Today is the first time I learned that I needed to be using special water. Yikes!

 

[Jemhidiah]

R/O water is like the basics of the basics when it comes to keeping anything but the hardiest S/W creatures. I dont want to sound like an @SS but you should really do your homework before trying to keep corals or nems. You might get away with it for a while but in the end knowledge is power.

 

[Lance M.]

Heh that's probably what's doing it. :S

The lfs would have RO saltwater already mixed. You most likely need your own containers to have them filled up when you buy it.

I suggest you buy a good RO/DI unit as they will save you money in the long run. They are usually ~$150-$200. I find it easier to make RO/DI rather then go and buy it and have to carry it buckets and then you have to depend on the lfs for the water.

It's best to do it yourself imo.

Edit:
Also if you don't already have it, I would suggest getting a large plastic storage container or small trash can that you can use for sw mixing. Then you hook up the ro/di unit so the purified water goes into the container. In the container you should have either a powerhead or a bubbler (I like powerheads) to aerate the water with the salt mix for at least 24 hours prior to using for a pwc and then a heater in there to get the water to the same temperature as the tank water.

 

[AliKat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10972753#post10972753 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jemhidiah
R/O water is like the basics of the basics when it comes to keeping anything but the hardiest S/W creatures. I dont want to sound like an @SS but you should really do your homework before trying to keep corals or nems. You might get away with it for a while but in the end knowledge is power.

Guess I should have mentioned that up until now I have always used water from the fish store. Today, as the fish store was closed, I had to learn how to mix it myself. I'm not a complete idiot or novice. Guess I also should have mentioned that I have successfully kept anemones and corals for years. This is the first time I have ever had an RBTA, as I have always had LTAs. And this is the first anemone I have ever had that has gotten sick.

I'm not trying to be an @ss either. Just want to set the record straight.