Which RO/DI Unit should I get?

Color changing is not a real good indicator of resin condition when you are wanting high quality water. It can turn colors unevenly or do other wierd things. Lots of time you will see higher TDS in the filtered water when the resin has barely begun to turn colors. It also uses dyes which can contribute to TDS.
A TDS or conductivity meter is a better tool to use.
 
Color changing is not a real good indicator of resin condition when you are wanting high quality water. It can turn colors unevenly or do other wierd things. Lots of time you will see higher TDS in the filtered water when the resin has barely begun to turn colors. It also uses dyes which can contribute to TDS.

BINGO!


Buy Medical grade NCC DI typicaly MBD20 resin by Resintech is the best and it also rated potable. Use a TDS meter to judge exhaustion. I think the only thing that you can really count on with color change resin is that it will look neat as it changes color:)


Bryan Crenshaw
 
I got my DI canister and resin. where do I tie it in to my existing system? before the final carbon filter and after teh RO membrane?
 
I recommend http://www.thefilterguys.biz/
I've had the Typhoon III, Filter Direct and an Oceanus unit. The Filter Guys quality & components are the same as the AirWaterIce units. I feel the Filter Guys units have the best bang for the buck and their customer service is top notch.
 
ok, i checked my water with my handheld tds meter and it was at 95. I was getting better readings prior to adding on a DI unit.

I have the DI housing about 10" above the RO membrane and other filters. Could that have something to do with it?
 
So why not the Compact Reefer at $139 versus the Typhoon III at $199? What's the difference? Same filters I think?
 
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