Which Silicone to Use???

Jon770

New member
I got most of my materials to build my sump/fuge, but I'm still confused about what type of silicon to use. I know I should be using the Weldon stuff, but I can't find it and figure silicone will be good enough for a couple baffles...nothing too complicated.

So...what kind of silicone did you use? I know some poeple who have used the GE Window and Door: "Silicone II: 100% Silicon Sealant" from HD...but I was there last night and it said on the back of the tube that it should 'not be used for aquariums'. I read the back of ALL the other types of silicone they had, and only the: Kitchen and Bath "Silicone I: 100% Silicone Rubber Sealant" did not have that disclaimer.

Has anyone used either of these prodect and had any PROBLEMS...or are they basically the same? I heard that Silicone II has Algicides and Pesticides in it. I just dont want to put something in the sump that will ultimately be bad for the tank!

What about the silicone that my LFS sells as 'Aquarium Silicone'? Is it worth paying 3x the price of the '100% Silicone' available at HD?

:worried2: PLEASE HELP!!! :worried2:
 
But then why wouldn't I be able to use Window/Door Silicone II, or even Kitchen/Bath Silicone I or II? ... They ALL say:

'100% Silicone'
 
the kitchen and bath are mildew resistant, and have special chemicals in them that can leach out into the water and cause havoc on you tank. As for the window/door II, i dont know because i have never used it, but i think others have with success
 
Jon,

Are you using acrylic in this application? You mentioned that you 'should' use weldon, but you are going to use silicone instead. Weldon is not like a glue in the fact that it fuses acrylic by melting a small amount of the material and actually welding it to the other piece. It does not work on glass because it can't melt the glass.

Silicone is perfect for use on glass, but not acrylic. If your application is acrylic baffles in a glass tank, you should remember that acrylic can pull away from the silicone in high pressure areas. THat being said, I know many people who have done this (including me) and not had problems.

I agree with danferd's recommendations about the type of silicone to use. The aquarium sealent silicone in LFS is basically repackaged GE silicone sold at a specialty price.

Good Luck!
 
The silicone II is has different type of curing agent in it. You want "GE door and window silicone I" like danferd2002 said. Also, make sure you clean the places where you want silicone to adhere to with denatured alcohol before you start. This will remove the polymer coating on the glass that glass makers put on to keep the sheets from sticking together. When you're done, let it cure for at least 2-3 weeks before water testing.
 
hi, just wanted to let every know that up here in Canada we have a store called Canadian Tire. they have there own brand name called Mastercraft. they sell 100% silicon and on the back it specificaly states that it is excellent for use on aquariums. you can buy a contractor pack of 2 tubes for a whooping $7 can.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6586431#post6586431 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef Base
Jon,

Are you using acrylic in this application? You mentioned that you 'should' use weldon, but you are going to use silicone instead. Weldon is not like a glue in the fact that it fuses acrylic by melting a small amount of the material and actually welding it to the other piece. It does not work on glass because it can't melt the glass.

Silicone is perfect for use on glass, but not acrylic. If your application is acrylic baffles in a glass tank, you should remember that acrylic can pull away from the silicone in high pressure areas. THat being said, I know many people who have done this (including me) and not had problems.

I agree with danferd's recommendations about the type of silicone to use. The aquarium sealent silicone in LFS is basically repackaged GE silicone sold at a specialty price.

Good Luck!

if silicone is not good for acrylic and glass, then what should we use? thanks.
 
Yes, I am putting acrylic baffles in a glass aquarium. OK...So basically the best thing to go with is:

"GE Window and Door: Silicone I"

And what is 'denatured alcohol'? is that just rubbing alcohol?
 
Denatured alcohol is a fast drying cleaning agent, you can get it at a hardware or paint store or HD. I would personally not use the denatured alcohol on my tank I just wipe it down with warm water and rinse it a couple of times. I also used the Ge W&D Silicone I to hold my acrylic baffles in my glass tank as many people have done. Good luck!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6586451#post6586451 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by armygreen11
When you're done, let it cure for at least 2-3 weeks before water testing.
When you say 'cure', do you mean just letting it sit with the solicone (to allow it to dry)? Or is there something else that I need to do to it?

And is 2-3 really necessary? Seems a bit long....
 
Just my $0.02. I used GE Silicone II ( windows and doors ) for my 2 sumps I made ( glass tank with acrylic baffels). I let both of them cure over night. The first one has been running for just over a year now, the second one, just over 6 months. Did not have an issue with either one. I think that 2 -3 weeks curing time is a bit of overkill.
 
ge silicone II window and door...the I vs II debate has been hashed so many times, i researched it extensively when i did my sump, i used the II , no problems , year and a half now
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6593664#post6593664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Toddrtrex
Just my $0.02. I used GE Silicone II ( windows and doors ) for my 2 sumps I made ( glass tank with acrylic baffels). I let both of them cure over night. The first one has been running for just over a year now, the second one, just over 6 months. Did not have an issue with either one. I think that 2 -3 weeks curing time is a bit of overkill.
Good, because I seriously doubt I would be able to sit around for 3 weeks waiting to put this thing to use. I know this hobby requires alot of patience, but we all have our limits...

;)
 
Exactly, and the only reason I was "able" to wait that long was do to the fact I didn't have enought RO/DI water ready for the increase water volume. ;)
 
make sure you leave space for expansion and contraction of acrylic. glass panels do not expand like acrylic does.
 
Expansion and contraction at 70 to 80 degrees? I don't think he has to worry about these issues in his baffles at these temperatures. It isn't a high stress area, anyways.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6594213#post6594213 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robmacy
make sure you leave space for expansion and contraction of acrylic. glass panels do not expand like acrylic does.
So you're saying I shouldn't cut my baffles to EXACTLY 12" (if that's what the width of my sump is)...I should make them a little smaller (11.5 ok?) in case they will expand?

And then I should just make sure to put enough silicone to plug the space?
 
They will not expand that much in the temp that we maintain our tanks at. I would try to get them as close to the sump size as possible, you don't want them to be a tight fit but you don't want there to be a big gap either.

Rich
 
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