Why hasn't my RBTA...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9211331#post9211331 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 55semireef
god910, I agree with you. I don't think it has anything to do with chemicle warfare or my lighting. I think its that my RBTA has no zooxanthellae at all thus it can't color up. The anemone has to have some zooxanthellae so it can color up right? If it doesn't have any zoox., how is it suppose to acquire zoox.?

It would have to regrow zooanthellae the same way your sebae did after you bought it. I think it took mine several weeks to regrow, but it may not at all if it is too stressed. Under what conditions did it bleach in the first place? Have you corrected that issue? Is any fish bothering it? You know nems, as long as they are healthy all is good, but if it starts to go down hill there may be little you can do.
 
55semireef,
This will sound insane to some people...but I would feed it some high quality flake food everyday for a while. Omega 1 or even Spectrum.
 
Bleaching is a common issue with the T5's. Do you have any of the UV bulbs installed? I had some bleaching issues on my 58, swapped out a couple with UV bulbs, and colors came back a little (but not to original).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9226629#post9226629 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mwood
It would have to regrow zooanthellae the same way your sebae did after you bought it. I think it took mine several weeks to regrow, but it may not at all if it is too stressed. Under what conditions did it bleach in the first place? Have you corrected that issue? Is any fish bothering it? You know nems, as long as they are healthy all is good, but if it starts to go down hill there may be little you can do.

I think what he's getting at is that if there is absolutely NO zooxanthellae algae left alive in the tissue of the anemone, is it even capable of regrowth?
 
My friend bluecarpet had it under PCs and this is what caused the anemone to bleach. Bluecarpet had no idea this would do this to the RBTA this quickly and decided to give the RBTA to me. The RBTA has improved only slightly but I have yet to see any major signs of zooxanthellae. All I see is a darker pigment which means nothing. I will try and get some pictures tomorrow. I am very busy tonight.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9227786#post9227786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Angel*Fish
55semireef,
This will sound insane to some people...but I would feed it some high quality flake food everyday for a while. Omega 1 or even Spectrum.

It doesn't sound insane at all but I would like to know why you would give me this suggestion.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9229248#post9229248 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RokleM
Bleaching is a common issue with the T5's. Do you have any of the UV bulbs installed? I had some bleaching issues on my 58, swapped out a couple with UV bulbs, and colors came back a little (but not to original).


I honestly don't think it has anything to do with my T5s. If my H. Crispa came back from a bleached state, I am pretty sure a RBTA can too. I don't know too much about UV bulbs. Can you explain what they are? All I know is that I am keeping lps, clams, and some sps without any issues of light. I would think a RBTA would have plenty.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9235874#post9235874 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 55semireef
It doesn't sound insane at all but I would like to know why you would give me this suggestion.

Thanks

I was just thinking that some extra vitamins & other nutrients might be helpful.

I just read your first post again and you say the BTA is "cream colored brown"? It sounds like it does have zooxanthellae. Is it the red/pink color it's missing? That's a different matter I thought.

If that's the case, I'd feed it some frozen cyclopeeze, it's full of astaxanthins, a red pigment in algae. Might make no difference, but it couldn't hurt. Are you absolutely positive this was really a rose? (Since it was already bleached when you got it)
 
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Clearly I can't read at all - I reread again and saw you feed "usually switching off between shrimp and prime reef flakes".

What kind of shrimp? Do you mean frozen mysis?

BTA's also need whole chopped up silversides, IMHO.
 
I feed them chopped up fresh shrimp and sometimes I feed them prime reef flakes. I have never used silversides before. The shirmp I use always does me well.
 
No I understood you clearly. I will get some pictures up in a few. They are going to be look down pictures since my RBTA is now positioned in the back of the tank.
 
Hmm, lighting is fine, though the sudden change in intensity may prolong the amount of time for the anemone to recover. Color spectrum doesn't seem to be very important (except for a few species), so long as the source of light emits adequate amounts of PAR. Chemical warfare could be a potential issue, possibly moreso as the anemones grow. Do try silversides. The E. quadricolor should enjoy it and IME, fish meat is the best food you can feed to H. crispa. It doesn't even have to be enriched. How often do you feed? Try increasing the frequency to around every other day. The UV bulbs are nice, but they are significantly brighter than the Tek lights, so I don't think that that would be entirely advantageous at this point. Maybe after the anemone recovers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9244491#post9244491 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Amphiprion
Hmm, lighting is fine, though the sudden change in intensity may prolong the amount of time for the anemone to recover. Color spectrum doesn't seem to be very important (except for a few species), so long as the source of light emits adequate amounts of PAR. Chemical warfare could be a potential issue, possibly moreso as the anemones grow. Do try silversides. The E. quadricolor should enjoy it and IME, fish meat is the best food you can feed to H. crispa. It doesn't even have to be enriched. How often do you feed? Try increasing the frequency to around every other day. The UV bulbs are nice, but they are significantly brighter than the Tek lights, so I don't think that that would be entirely advantageous at this point. Maybe after the anemone recovers.

I ususally feed on average about every 3-4 days.

Here is a picture:

Picturesofmytank066.jpg
 
Well it would be a pita, but what about borrowing a healthy one for a while? Maybe there are none of the right kind of zooxanthellae in your tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9252561#post9252561 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Angel*Fish
Well it would be a pita, but what about borrowing a healthy one for a while? Maybe there are none of the right kind of zooxanthellae in your tank?
Are you suggesting that a healthy one would transfer zooxanthellae to my bleached one if they were next to each other touching? Is that possible? However, I wouldn't mine "borrowing" one though.:D :D :D
 
If there are none in your tank, I can't think of any other way to get them in there. I would think that some be would released into the water by the healthy one and picked up by your bleached one. They expel their water & take in new regularly.

I should mention that although I'm aware that there are indeed different species of zooxanthellae, I don't know how species specific they are to their hosts. Or if they are at all. (IOW why can't your BTA use take up the ones from your other anemone? And that leads us back to the biological warfare and nutrition issues to make the BTA as strong as possible)

Nevertheless, it seems like the logical thing to try.
 
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I know zooxanthellae lives within the tissue of corals and anemones. The only way I think zooxanthellae would be expelled is if the healthy RBTA expelled it itself and the bleached one somehow took it in if it landed in the right spot.
 
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